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  #1  
Old Sun 04 May 2008, 10:40
kalimero
Just call me: kalimero
 
buffalo
United States of America
Cannot get motor to turn - Mach Ports & Pins setup

Hi all,
I am traing to connect on my table 1 motor with others parts and

I have:
power supply 8n50r-12 (50V - 800 W + 12V 1out for pmdx-122)
pmdx -122 board
g202 driver
and motor
kl34h295-43-8B (keling)
http://www.kelinginc.net/KL34H295-43-8B.pdf
I want to do unipolar conection.

1. I connect pmdx board with power suply
2. connect board and g202 like:
board pin ---- g202 pin
2 -------- 8 direction
3 ------- 9 step pulse
com ----- -- 10 common

3. put 33K resistor on G202 11 - 12 pin

(Half-Coil 47X3.1/(7-3.1)= ~37K )


4. Connect motor like this:

G202 motor
3-(coil A) -------------Blue Wire
4- (coil A-) ------------Red wire
5 - (coil B ) ------------Brown wire
6 - (coil B- )------------black wire

5. connect motor and power supply.

6. Set mach3 program (found video tutorial )


after all this I can not run my motor ( I spend 2 day's).

All what i have it is sometime wery high freq. sound from motor.

Can anyone check this and help me , please??
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  #2  
Old Sun 04 May 2008, 11:03
Greg J
Just call me: Greg #13
 
Hagerman, New Mexico
United States of America
Quote:
Originally Posted by kalimero View Post
All what i have it is sometime wery high freq. sound from motor.

Someone else had this same problem. Give me some time, but I bet someone else will have a solution before I will.
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  #3  
Old Sun 04 May 2008, 11:12
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
1. What have you done to the Yellow, Green, Orange, White wires of the motor? Is each wire separately insulated and not touching anything?

2. Motor temperature is okay?

3. G202: What colour LED is showing?

4. PMDX122: What are your jumper settings? Is E-Stop of J6 connected to Ground? Are any LED's showing? What are the LED's indicated below showing:




5. What program are you running to make the motor move?

6. Can you zip the .xml file in your Mach folder and post it here?
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  #4  
Old Sun 04 May 2008, 11:46
kalimero
Just call me: kalimero
 
buffalo
United States of America
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerald D View Post
1. What have you done to the Yellow, Green, Orange, White wires of the motor? Is each wire separately insulated and not touching anything?
Yes they are insulated

2. Motor temperature is okay?Temp it is OK

3. G202: What colour LED is showing?
RED
4. PMDX122: What are your jumper settings? Is E-Stop of J6 connected to Ground? Are any LED's showing? What are the LED's indicated below showing:


When I set jumpers like that on picture all led is off



5. What program are you running to make the motor move?

match3

6. Can you zip the .xml file in your Mach folder and post it here?
OK, I am.
Attached Files
File Type: zip Mach3Mill.zip (9.9 KB, 65 views)
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  #5  
Old Sun 04 May 2008, 12:17
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
What instruction are you giving to make the motor move? Are you pushing a cursor (arrow) key....left/right arrows for the x-axis?
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  #6  
Old Sun 04 May 2008, 12:56
kalimero
Just call me: kalimero
 
buffalo
United States of America
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerald D View Post
What instruction are you giving to make the motor move? Are you pushing a cursor (arrow) key....left/right arrows for the x-axis?
With jog mode (press tab).
After I hold shift key and press X+ I can hear high freq. sound but when press X- nothing hapend.
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  #7  
Old Sun 04 May 2008, 13:17
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
I wanted to plug a PMDX122 into my PC here at home, but I discovered I don't have a parallel cable here.

When pressing the cursor keys you should see some LEDs changing on the PMDX. Until you get this to work, you need not even connect the G202 or motor.

Can anyone else help - I am off to bed now.
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  #8  
Old Sun 04 May 2008, 17:19
OBXCNC
Just call me: RC
 
Key West
United States of America
Just as a trouble shooting step try resetting the JP3 Jumper to the opposite position ("not E-stop Fault" and "Outputs Enabled") and see it you get any led lights at pin 2-3???
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  #9  
Old Sun 04 May 2008, 18:14
Doug_Ford
Just call me: Doug #3
 
Conway (Arkansas)
United States of America
Kalimero,

You might want to double check to ensure that the terminal screws are actually touching the copper inside the wires rather than pinching the plastic insulation. If you have a multimeter, you can touch the probes to the terminal screws at each end of the wires to see if you have continuity. If you don't know what I'm talking about, please reply and I'll explain further.
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  #10  
Old Sun 04 May 2008, 18:46
Greg J
Just call me: Greg #13
 
Hagerman, New Mexico
United States of America
Kalimero,

Much better help here than I.

I recall that the other person that had your same problem had a wiring error. They checked and double checked their wiring, and it looked good. The third time (I'm working off memory, so don't quote me) they noticed two wires were crossed.

It sounds simple, but most of my problems with the kitchen project were due to loose, sloppy, poor workmanship on the wiring.

I'm currently wiring my MM. I am taking my time and making sure I've learned all the lessons given from this site.
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  #11  
Old Sun 04 May 2008, 19:19
kalimero
Just call me: kalimero
 
buffalo
United States of America
Quote:
Originally Posted by OBXCNC View Post
Just as a trouble shooting step try resetting the JP3 Jumper to the opposite position ("not E-stop Fault" and "Outputs Enabled") and see it you get any led lights at pin 2-3???
In that way all my led's is ON (with lights)
??
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  #12  
Old Sun 04 May 2008, 19:44
kalimero
Just call me: kalimero
 
buffalo
United States of America
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug_Ford View Post
Kalimero,

You might want to double check to ensure that the terminal screws are actually touching the copper inside the wires rather than pinching the plastic insulation. If you have a multimeter, you can touch the probes to the terminal screws at each end of the wires to see if you have continuity. If you don't know what I'm talking about, please reply and I'll explain further.

I double check and it is OK ???

Do I need to do extra Groung pmdx board or g202 ??
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  #13  
Old Sun 04 May 2008, 20:01
Doug_Ford
Just call me: Doug #3
 
Conway (Arkansas)
United States of America
Kalimero,

Can you take some pictures and post them?
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  #14  
Old Mon 05 May 2008, 03:26
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Kalimero, the jumper positions in the above diagram assume that you are using the charge pump signal from Mach3. Without that signal, your PMDX will be dead. When the signal is applied, an LED in the center of the board lights up and says: "Outputs Enabled when lit".

Looking at your xml, you have not told Mach3 to send the charge pump signal. This appears to be your basic problem.

Config > Ports & Pins > Output Signals Tab > Scroll down to Charge Pump. Enable it for Pin 17.


After doing that, and resetting the red flashing E-stop on the Mach screen, you should see some LED's coming to life. The cursor keys left/right should make visible changes to at least one LED.

For the other curious folk reading this thread, you can test all of this before you build a power supply and connect drives and motors. I have the PMDX122 connected to a 9V battery and the printer cable here on my office desk.
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  #15  
Old Mon 05 May 2008, 08:15
Richards
Just call me: Mike
 
South Jordan, UT
United States of America
To test the G202 independent of the PMDX board's stepper signals, wire the G202's COMMON signal to one of the 5VDC outputs on the PMDX board, and then repeatedly tap the direction input to the G202 to one of the PMDX's ground. You should get some jerky motion at the motor. That will verify that the motor is correctly wired to the G202.

Solving the rest of the problem is doing what Gerald and the others have suggested. Carefully trace each wire and verify that everything is properly wired. Use a meter and verify that you have good contact at each terminal. Verify that JP1 on the PMDX board is wired so that COMMON is 5VDC for the G202 stepper driver. Verify that the contacts are closed on the E-Stop switch.

Check and recheck the Config screens in Mach3 and verify that you are using the proper pins and the proper polarity. I have Mach3 configured with the X-axis enabled (green check mark), step is pin 3, direction is pin 2, and both are enabled Active-Low (green check marks).

Enter some conservative numbers in the motor tuning section. I started out with 2,000 steps per inch and then set ramping to give 0.3 seconds. (All I wanted to do as see the shaft spin.) After verifying that everything worked, I changed the motor settings to get the proper number of steps per inch and the proper ramp rate for the desired performance.
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  #16  
Old Mon 05 May 2008, 10:15
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Quote:
Originally Posted by kalimero View Post
connect board and g202 like:
board pin ---- g202 pin
2 -------- 8 direction
3 ------- 9 step pulse
com ----- -- 10 common
Clipboard01.gif

Another mistake spotted above......you have step and direction mixed up. That is why you get the high-frequency hum in one "direction"
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  #17  
Old Mon 05 May 2008, 19:40
kalimero
Just call me: kalimero
 
buffalo
United States of America
Thanks to all. It is working now ...

Only ligth on pin2 is off ?? but I can use other ..

Thank you...........
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  #18  
Old Tue 06 May 2008, 09:34
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Now that's what I call tech support!
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  #19  
Old Tue 06 May 2008, 09:50
Greg J
Just call me: Greg #13
 
Hagerman, New Mexico
United States of America
I've said it before, and I'll say it again,

I get better service/advice from people half way around the world, than from my own local merchants.
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