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#1
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First Cuts #108 - Willemstad,Netherlands
Oi galera!
I'm reading this forum for around 2 years, dreaming and been happy as other builders get running machines... During that time I have build an workshop where the mechmate will be the king of that space, getting tools that will be essencials and have collected almost all parts (from Metalhead, thanks). Now it's my time... Here I'm, bald and no beard ![]() I'm a portuguese living in Curacao, Netherland Antilles. Have worked, long time ago, from 1986 to 1996, in Portugal, with a CNC in textil industry, cutting tissue. It was from a French company, Lectra Systems... Now, thanks to Gerald I will have one for me ![]() Thanks Gerald, Metalhead and all community. No more cutting tissues, it will cut principally wood, official it will cut art to display on wife's art business and cut some boat parts for myself in the middle ![]() Only need to finish that canoe to get space... My main concern is weld (I'm practicing) and no problems in electronics, I hope... |
#2
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Welcome Paulo! Looks like you are off to a good start.
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#3
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Yes indeed !
Congratulations for your new workshop, it looks great ! |
#4
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Welcome Paulo. The welding is not bad, and you will have a lot of good advice along the way. Good to see your progress and look forward to seeing you build.
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#5
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A man after my heart....
a wood strip boat builder....is that cedar...people are so amazed at how lite they can be.....have built one in 42 years, but getting the itch !
Why so much steel ....that will be a big machine....taht is hefty stuff ! I am a welder..... I may be wrong but I don't feel that they need to be welded solid ....they don't when building skyscrapers.... I will use a 3/4" on the corners and 1", every 3 or 4 inches.....If you dont want the side beams to warp , don't weld across the top or bottom...wrap around the corners and skip-weld down the sides...pick up a structural welding book ! Last edited by Metalsmith; Sat 07 April 2012 at 10:13.. Reason: more info ! |
#6
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Thank you Metalsmith for your advices. Machine size will be for 4' x 8' boards. I'll follow the plans except for legs (will use square tube 70x70x3 and instead of round tube will use square tube 50x20x3)... I don't want to invent anything and legs do not interfere with functions of other parts. In the pile of steel you can see some that I'm using for small security fences. it's just to fell the welding on my hands before the real thing.
I like cedar strip boats and I have plans to build, but this one is marine plywood... build cheap to sell cheap. Last edited by parrulho; Sun 08 April 2012 at 19:13.. Reason: correct word |
#7
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Official start of my machine
![]() Ok. My canoe is stored for now and got room for Mechmate... finally. On 27Nov2012 I started to cut X and Y rails. have started with confidence. no problems to cut it down to 2.8cm... then, I'm able to advice: do not start to cut the 45 angles before you are sure and confirm that the rails are top flat. I started to cut angles right away and the result was 26mm height on Y rails and 28 on X rails... thanks God I did not loose nothing... but a little frustrated. Also use a scrap piece of wood as a base and avoid to use the 4 bolts as a base to get the rail flat. it's ok to cut but not enough to get it really flat.. it's a good help. When on 45 angles use good very hard steel on bolts used to control height. It needs one complete turn to get the measurements. put mark on the bolt where you start. use the hexagone form as a reference. use grit 36 to on first two passes then grit 60 on 3rd and 4th and finish with grit 80 on 5th and last 6th. It served me well. Hope it will help new people. Regards and never tired to say thanks to Gerald. paulo |
#8
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base table welded
Not nice welds but they are strong. I'm happy with it
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#9
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gantry is done
After battling to get the cross members square and both the same size (lack of right tools) gantry is done, squared and true. Next Y car...
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#10
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Hi,
Nice work ! Are the casters permanent ? |
#11
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It's temporary, when it's full painted and inside the shop it will be removed and normal feet will be mounted.
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#12
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Very good work, I see your design allows for material storage. Nice!
Tom |
#13
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having hard time setting y car before weld.. fixing one side get the other off...
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#14
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...that looks familiar.
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#15
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gantry and Y car complete and painted
I was worrying too much with Y car. Have removed all the clamps and started welding-control-adjust, weld next and repeat until it completes...at the end it was OK. Next: drill and mount rails and start rolling.....
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#16
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Hello happy people,
I'm looking for a reason why the proximity switch does not match the 20mm hole on rails. they are offset... Have searched the forum for it but it's taking me long time (what is not normal, let say...) any help is welcome. regards, Paulo |
#17
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Paulo,
The 20mm hole in the rail is the TARGET for the proximity switches. The switches are optional. The offset insert for the 20mm hole is for the ability to adjust the TARGET hole in the rail after installation. The proximity sensor is reverse logic. It is always active and sense the metal below it to detect a derail or other "jump the track" scenario. The hole is so the sensor does NOT see the rail and thus, act like a limit switch. The proximity sensors are dual function. Drawing # 10 20 246/247 show the drill details of the hole. The thread that covers this is: http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=584 |
#18
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Thank you Sean,
When I said "the proximity switch do not match the 20mm hole" was mean: the center of the proximity switch, when mounted on the stop block, do not match the center of the 20mm hole. they do not share the same center, there are a offset of around 8 or 10mm (I can't verify it right now). Is it done to be able to fine adjust the target? Sorry I can't explain it better in english ![]() |
#19
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In my case, a few washers behind the stop block was enough to produce alignment.
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#20
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Oh, my misunderstanding.
Just add a few washers between the proximity block and side of gantry steel to "push" the sensor towards center line of the table until centered. Be careful not add to many to cause the hard stop bracket to miss the end stop adjustable stop blocks. |
#21
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I don't think the prox switch is your biggest problem . . . . . . your pinion gears probably won't reach the racks either . . . . .
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#22
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At the moment I'm far away from my table to check but my table is very accurate on measures. In my head the center of the proximity switch offset from target is the way it was planed, with a purpose... if the centers must be coincident, I need to further investigate where my error is. By the way the 20mm target hole is not drilled yet, I stopped when have reached that point... Thank you all.
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#23
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Man, what a shame
![]() I'll move 1mm the center hole target and use washers, as advised... |
#24
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I can't buy from McMaster, they do not sell outside USA. It turns very difficult to get some parts (in a small island as Curacao). Today I get a beautiful Z plate: 1/4x10x18 not sure if it is hardened or not. The ends are yellow painted... is it a code?
Still needed are racks/pinions and tape to get all parts with me. |
#25
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Yes it is a paint code!
See the link here for reference. http://www.southerntoolsteel.com/color-codes.html |
#26
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it rolls very smooth... man, I'm falling in love with that machine!!!
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#27
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Paulo….not to worry being transparent over your emotions…..
Many here will raise a hand as follower / part of some who deliberately say this : I’m in love with this machine…..but I’m married to my wife ^_^ !! Although, in my specific case…..i ‘m no longer with her…..but still with my BB ![]() |
#28
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http://www.lightobject.com/22KW-2400...20V-P714.aspx#
Anyone knows that spindle? is it the same chinese spindle at sale on ebay with a different cover? no plastics on that one... |
#29
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its the same one, no plastic on any of the water cooled spindles
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#30
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Thanks Danilo. I was thinking allbblack partes was plastic..
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