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  #1  
Old Thu 29 March 2012, 00:20
Mrayhursh
Just call me: Hurshy
 
Riverview, Florida
United States of America
Starting To Weld, Riverview, Florida

Team
I have received my steel for the gantry. I was really happy with the package.
It fit together without any issues. I have a mig welder but my brother has 20 years of welding experience. I took the pieces over to his shop and he soon had everything setup and welded. Beautiful job. Time to sandblast and prime.

I have been looking for the steel for the 10.20.440. The closest I have been able to find is 2 x 4 x .125. I have read several of the blogs on this subject.
Is the .125 walled tube ok. If weight is an issue can the tube be drilled out and lightened.

If you are in the Tampa area I wouldn't mind seeing how your project is going.
Thanks Nils for the invite.
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  #2  
Old Thu 29 March 2012, 11:39
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
.125 Wall Tube is actually perfect.
Use of the clamp strip (either 3/4 x 1" bar stock or the rail cut off section) will do just fine with that mechanical tube for attachment of the rails for the gantry.

Weight will not be an issue if you have a reduction on the steppers. 3:1 or higher.

I personally used 3/16 (.1875) and 1/4" wall tube on different builds without any challenges with gear reduced steppers.

Great progress.
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  #3  
Old Fri 30 March 2012, 07:45
JasonC
Just call me: Jason
 
Soldotna,AK
United States of America
Here in Alaska .083 is special order, .125 common. Im going with .125 with 3:1 reduction.

Jas
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  #4  
Old Fri 30 March 2012, 11:10
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
Sean,
Didnt you tap one of those thicker sections instead of using the clamp strip? Was it the 3/16 or the 1/4? Did it work out ok?
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  #5  
Old Fri 30 March 2012, 20:10
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Heath,
I did tap the section for both wall thickness.
On the 3/16" I tapped UNF (standard 5/16 fine) on the 1/4" I tapped 5/16 UNC (course thread)

On the thin wall tube, I just used a clamp strip just like the plans call for.

The fun of being part of 4 builds I tend to mix it up a little!
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  #6  
Old Sat 31 March 2012, 02:58
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
I can't seem to find the thread that mention this.
recall I read some where in this forum that the screw need a certain number of threads to bite on the metal effectively... If I remember correctly, the rule of thumb is three threads to develop the full strength of the bolt.. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Last edited by KenC; Sat 31 March 2012 at 03:07..
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  #7  
Old Sat 31 March 2012, 03:22
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
If you like maths, More on effective depth of engagement.

For those with 10 fingers
http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tabl...ead_Calcs.html

For those with 8 or 12 fingers.
http://www.engineersedge.com/thread_...ed-std-h28.htm
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  #8  
Old Sat 31 March 2012, 10:36
WTI
Just call me: James
 
Detroit (Michigan)
United States of America
Quote:
Originally Posted by KenC View Post
I can't seem to find the thread that mention this.
recall I read some where in this forum that the screw need a certain number of threads to bite on the metal effectively... If I remember correctly, the rule of thumb is three threads to develop the full strength of the bolt.. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

When installing heavy, dangerous items like speakers or TVs in public places, the code says that if your fastener can not make 3 complete engaged turns, you must move up to the next longer fastener.
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  #9  
Old Sun 01 April 2012, 23:32
Mrayhursh
Just call me: Hurshy
 
Riverview, Florida
United States of America
Check your Spam

Team

I usually spend Sunday doing clean up my PC...etc..
I found that emails from MechMate had all gone to the Spam Bucket.
If you are a new member you may want to check your spam and
right click on these emails and make them non-spam.
Email should them correct the issue...thanks
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