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  #91  
Old Thu 14 August 2008, 19:58
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
...Nils is a good student. He also is learning patience. I think he's been camped out in front of the drill press ALL WEEK!
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  #92  
Old Thu 14 August 2008, 21:35
Greg J
Just call me: Greg #13
 
Hagerman, New Mexico
United States of America
Quote:
Originally Posted by smreish View Post
...Nils is a good student.
Nils has a good teacher.
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  #93  
Old Fri 15 August 2008, 13:12
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
Gerald,

Here are some pictures.... But the rails are tight against the aluminum.

If you want additional pictures or a different view, let me know. The close ups I took are a bit fuzzie, I will retake.




Last edited by sailfl; Fri 15 August 2008 at 13:39..
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  #94  
Old Fri 15 August 2008, 13:23
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Thanks for the pics. So, do the rails fit snugly into the corner of the alu?
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  #95  
Old Fri 15 August 2008, 13:38
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
Gerald,

Yes they fit tight. I will try and get you a close up of the end corner view on Saturday.
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  #96  
Old Fri 15 August 2008, 14:39
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
Nils,
The pictures look great. It looks like you needed two pieces of rail. What was the max length of rail you can get and what length of table are you using. The transition from one to the next looks really good. I am really eager to see what you think of the whole bolt on rail method once your machine is up and cutting. (As are a lot of others too I think)
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  #97  
Old Fri 15 August 2008, 15:59
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
The rail sections are 6' long, thus we used 2 sections.
We have offset them slightly to each other so no 2 rollers can ever occupy a joint line at the same time.
This was easier on the Y-axis - we were able to use a 3' and 4' and offset the joint lines as well.
I was concerned that I might have to root pass weld the vee-rail for alignment, but the alum angle did a fine job. It fits VERY nicely on the inside of the extrusion.
This solution works very well - so far. The proof will be in the finished machine. But I will admit, those superior bearing rails sure are nice
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  #98  
Old Fri 15 August 2008, 19:18
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
Heath,

It took me about 3-4 days to tap and drill holes in the rails and the aluminum. If I would have been more careful in my transfer and hole drilling of the aluminum, it may have taken a day less. The one thing that I didn't have to deal with is the grinding dust.

I hope that when I finish that we will be able to compare the performance of the two machines since they are with in 10' of each other.

It is great having Sean and his machine to give me guidance.
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  #99  
Old Fri 15 August 2008, 21:08
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
This week I finally got my 20 rails (total length 60meters [200 ft]) done for 5 MM's. I will be the first to agree that those V-Strip rails on alu look VERY attractive. It might be a slow process, but it is controllable and predictable. The cutting and grinding of angle iron is economical, but hot rolled iron doesn't give you a nice accurate line to work from.
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  #100  
Old Sat 16 August 2008, 17:07
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
Gerald,

Here are a couple close ups.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSCN0866.jpg (166.0 KB, 1967 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN0873.jpg (165.4 KB, 1964 views)
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  #101  
Old Sat 16 August 2008, 18:23
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
Nils,
Great pictures. I am anxiously awaiting the report on the new rails once you start cutting.
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  #102  
Old Sat 16 August 2008, 20:08
Greg J
Just call me: Greg #13
 
Hagerman, New Mexico
United States of America
Nils,

Thanks for the great reporting and pictures.

I'm starting (ordered the laser cut parts) on number 2. My rails will follow your progress.
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  #103  
Old Sat 16 August 2008, 21:22
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Thanks for the pics Nils. Looks like the V-Rail has nicely rounded edges at the bottom and that it should fit snugly to most extruded alu angles.
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  #104  
Old Sat 16 August 2008, 21:23
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Any particular reason you wanted to tap the rails and not use nuts?
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  #105  
Old Sun 17 August 2008, 12:01
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
Gerald,

I don't remember the thinking behind taping the rails.

Sean, welded the Y-Car and today I painted it and started to paint the table. I have also primed and painted the aluminum - lets hope it stays painted.

Things are looking MM Blue!!!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSCN0884.jpg (168.7 KB, 1964 views)
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  #106  
Old Sun 17 August 2008, 16:19
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Gosh my shop is dirty
This is now our storage facility, the business has moved to a much bigger plant a few miles away. For now, this will be the CNC shop until I can prep a nice room for (2) machines at the new facility.
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  #107  
Old Mon 18 August 2008, 15:39
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
Orlando might get hit by the first Hurricane (Fay) to come up the state of FL. It currently is going to go to the West or the East or Orlando, the weather guys don't know. The National Weather Radar shows that the eye is just reaching the Keys. Orlando is suppose to see the storm late Tuesday but it could slow down due to it going over land.

Sean is battening up an install he has going on.
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  #108  
Old Mon 18 August 2008, 17:27
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
Send a message via Yahoo to Robert M Send a message via Skype™ to Robert M
Putting my positive thought toward you guys and wishing you all the best through this inevitable weather strike.
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  #109  
Old Mon 18 August 2008, 17:29
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
...thanks for the support. This one looks like it will be just a good gully washer.
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  #110  
Old Tue 19 August 2008, 03:15
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
Storm update

Currently, the storm and it looks like it will be more of a tropical storm than a hurricane is moving very slowly. It hit the keys around 5PM and has only come back over land at Marco Island which is South of Ft Myers (West coast of FL). For most of the state it will bring lots of ran and some strong winds. Most of the damage will be caused by any tornados spawned by the storm.

I am currently getting no rain.
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  #111  
Old Tue 19 August 2008, 03:32
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Nils, it always intrigues us when we see TV coverage of your storm damage, why you guys don't build with brick & mortar? Out here, where hurricanes are almost unheard of, most houses are brick & mortar.
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  #112  
Old Tue 19 August 2008, 03:56
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
Gerald,

Most new construction is done with concrete block on the first floor and wood on the second floor. But many older homes were built with wood. Today new home construction has changed since we have had so much damage from hurricanes. From the foundation to the roof, it is all tied together with straps. Windows and doors must be able to with stand 140 mph winds, that includes garage doors. The building codes have changed drastically. Shingles have more nails and they are longer nails. But there are many homes that were built with the old codes and so there is lots of damage.

Naturally, it helps if you don't build close to the edge of the water. That has not changed. Everyone still wants to live right next to the water and the local city government still allow it.

A major problem we have here is getting and keeping your home owners insurance. Many insurance companies are not insuring policies close to the coast and the price is very high. After the last storm, I had to find new insurance though I did not have any claims. The price I was quoted was in some cases almost double and they wanted proof of upgraded electrical, air conditioning including new duct work and other changes. The state had to start providing home owners insurance and they are covering a substantial number of people in the state. Many companies have pulled out of the state or they only provide coverage for homes in the middle of the state.
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  #113  
Old Tue 26 August 2008, 02:28
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
I thought that everyone watching my build with preground rails would enjoy this photo.

Aluminum painted MM with the rails attached. I think they look pretty sharp!!!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSCN0890.jpg (170.3 KB, 1844 views)
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  #114  
Old Tue 26 August 2008, 07:00
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
If it wasn't so darn expensive to transport those V-rails, I would use them here. Nice!

Where is your proxy target hole, or do you think that a proxy and alu are not compatible? (sensing distance typically reduces by 66%, but they usually still sense). And your plans for stop-blocks? (Screwed through from the back, or welded?)
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  #115  
Old Tue 26 August 2008, 10:08
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
Gerald,

Sean chief engineer on sensor and stop block. I am sure he will answer.

Actually he is the chief engineer. I am learning and doing!!! I am a good order follower. I put my 2 cents in and ask questions to understand.
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  #116  
Old Tue 26 August 2008, 10:25
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Gerald and others,
The stop blocks will be bolted from underneath the rail into a tapped block blindly.
The proximity holes are going to be as designed with the hole if the sensing works well. Option 2 will be used if the aluminum-to-proximity sensing is not up to par and we will use adhesive metal tape on the aluminum rail and only be placed in the "active" area so the sensor respond like a "classic" mechmate. This way, the sensor logic will stay the same. Either option will work very well.
Thanks for asking.
Sean
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  #117  
Old Tue 26 August 2008, 11:30
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
If it is not too late, I would suggest you get the "extended range" proximity switches like this one:
http://www.factorymation.com/s.nl/it...category=14129

Difference is that the metal jacket does not go all the way to the nose - it doubles the sense distance. Better for alu sensing. However, you have such a consistent ride height over that alu extrusion, that you could set a proxy down within 0.5mm to sense the alu and still be okay.
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  #118  
Old Tue 26 August 2008, 15:27
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
Gerald,

Thanks for the suggestion but I bought early and got the SI12-C2 NPN NO H.
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  #119  
Old Tue 26 August 2008, 22:51
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Have you connected that proxy across your car battery and held it near alu to see when the LED lights up?
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  #120  
Old Wed 27 August 2008, 04:54
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
...good homework for Nils. Hey Nils, Have you connected that proxy across your car battery and held it near alu to see when the LED lights up?
THIS IS FUN!
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