MechMate CNC Router Forum

Go Back   MechMate CNC Router Forum > Common Assemblies & Parts > Profiled (laser cut) & bent steel plate
Register Options Profile Last 1 | 3 | 7 Days Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old Fri 13 November 2009, 19:16
Castone
Just call me: Leo #41
 
Soddy Daisy , Tn
United States of America
Hard stop Bracket

Thinking about adding this part to the kits, it would cut some time out of the build. It is .250" thick. Just wanting to get a litle feed back before I made anymore of them. All it would need is to be tapped and the hole for the prox drilled.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg good2.jpg (79.6 KB, 311 views)
File Type: jpg good 3.jpg (54.9 KB, 311 views)
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old Sat 14 November 2009, 10:56
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Leo, I have recently made those stop/switch brackets in a similar way. The hole for the sensor was also laser cut and slightly slotted. (The sensor is 12mm diam)

They were welded to the cars:

Attached Images
File Type: gif Clipboard01.gif (4.5 KB, 310 views)
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old Sat 14 November 2009, 12:21
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Yes, yes, YES. Significant time saver!
...and since I am about ready to start a CNC Plasma machine, I will be ready for them.
Sean
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old Sat 14 November 2009, 15:18
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Yes - I also think this would be a good part to add.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old Sat 14 November 2009, 16:22
Castone
Just call me: Leo #41
 
Soddy Daisy , Tn
United States of America
Adding the hole would be no problem, I had left it out just in case some one drilled the holes in the rail a little off they could adjust the prox some. I think I will start making a few, Thanks guys
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old Sat 14 November 2009, 16:25
Castone
Just call me: Leo #41
 
Soddy Daisy , Tn
United States of America
Gerald , I think slotting the hole would be a good ideal , you already have the hole and still have some adjustment.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old Sat 14 November 2009, 17:15
lumberjack_jeff
Just call me: Jeff #31
 
Montesano, WA
United States of America
That car-stopper is an excellent idea. Big timesaver.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old Sat 14 November 2009, 22:30
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
The idea is not fully mature yet . . . .

For welding the part to the cars, they should get matching lugs and slots.

I have avoided this idea for the published drawing set because the bend tooling is not easily found all over the world. Some guys are going to make a mess of the two short bends with the un-bent bit in the middle.

To enable the bending, the notches must be cut in quite deep, making the "fingers" a little weak for stopping a heavy gantry that is running away. I welded up the notches after bending.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old Sat 14 November 2009, 23:04
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Great insight - Learning new stuff all the time here is cool!! Thanks Gerald!!!
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old Thu 19 November 2009, 16:46
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
What about a profile like this?
Attached Files
File Type: dxf Castone Stop Block.dxf (15.3 KB, 36 views)
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old Thu 19 November 2009, 18:52
Castone
Just call me: Leo #41
 
Soddy Daisy , Tn
United States of America
Hard stop

I dont think that would be as strong as you are removing material from the part and making a sharp inside corner that would make a good place for the metal to start cracking if it did start seeing alot of crashes. I dont think the part I have now will fail. The tab in the middle could be removed to make forming easier , but then you would have to weld the a tab on, but it would still be alot less labor than before. But keep the ideals coming.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Hard stop (600 x 525).jpg (52.7 KB, 311 views)
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old Thu 19 November 2009, 19:25
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
Send a message via Yahoo to Robert M Send a message via Skype™ to Robert M
Leo….
Scary and cool how two guys who never met, not even close by can think alike

Attachment 7174

Attachment 7175

Amicalement, Robert
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Proxy_holder_stoper-drawing.jpg (51.3 KB, 311 views)
File Type: jpg Proxy_holder_stoper-rs.jpg (95.3 KB, 312 views)
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old Thu 19 November 2009, 20:48
Castone
Just call me: Leo #41
 
Soddy Daisy , Tn
United States of America
Hard stop

Yes it is, have you had any problems from yours?
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old Thu 19 November 2009, 21:45
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
Send a message via Yahoo to Robert M Send a message via Skype™ to Robert M
Leo….
Can’t really tell as I’m only at the building stage ( see my thread ), no motors tuning yet !
So, no dynamic test yet, only cad static, reason why I was keeping a timid silence on mine. Those where cut over a year ago
Although, form my static 3D-cad test, no trouble with this final version !
( did some dynamic test by pushing the gantry and Y-car only by hand…seems ok )

Funny as I only realize this coincidence between you, Gerald & I as I usually do not read this and others laser cut parts threads
Amicalement, Robert
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old Thu 19 November 2009, 22:29
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
So the tabs can be wider. Run them out to the edge of the circle to create more mass.

Did you make the mount holes 8 MM or did you go 5/16.

Also a technical question. Compensating for length in a bend like this. Do I add the thickness of the steel to the bend or half the thickness or what?

If I bend a piece of .25 inch steel 90 degrees and want the bent tab to be 1 inch, how much more do I need to add for the correct finished length?

Or is what I add based on the die used when bending the steel.....

Cool stuff !!!
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old Thu 19 November 2009, 22:49
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
More Mass - Looks like an M with a smiley face !!!
Attached Files
File Type: dxf MetalHead Stop Block.dxf (15.8 KB, 36 views)
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old Thu 19 November 2009, 23:32
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Take a piece of tin (from a beer can if needs be) cut it approximately to your shape and then test it to see where it wants to bend when you hit the point - this will tell you where to add more metal (and where you can trim it away). Mike's more mass (MMM) is not going to make it any stronger (you want more width at the bend line, not at the tip)

Bending of steel plates - how it is done and calculated (Post #3)
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old Fri 20 November 2009, 05:33
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
MMM - Funny !

So why not just bend the 2 - 90 degree bends in a piece of square plate .25 inch, then cut a piece of 12 or 14 gauge steel with a few holes in it that can be lined up easy and plug welded to the flat part of the stop block.

All it does is hold the stop sensor anyway and it would be very quick to put together and not a challenge to make sure all the little parts line up and stay square.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Stop Block with proxy holder.jpg (29.2 KB, 311 views)
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old Fri 20 November 2009, 06:02
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Then the sensor hits all the screws holding the rail to the beams.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old Fri 20 November 2009, 06:30
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
It would have the same finished deminsions as the regular part does.
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old Fri 20 November 2009, 08:10
Castone
Just call me: Leo #41
 
Soddy Daisy , Tn
United States of America
Bends

Mike ,if you figure your bends on ID using a .120" rad Punch you would need to add .039" to your desired length . If using OD measurements you would need to subtract .211" in each direction for each leg so .422 per 90 deg bend. If you change your die Rad these numbers would change a little. I can give you the K factors to use if you tell me what punches you will be using and if you will be coining or air bending your parts.
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old Fri 20 November 2009, 08:34
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
My head is on fire !!!! - I'll digest that for a while . Expert I am not but I figured it may have something to do with the die you are bending with. Thanks for the info - and yet again I am amazed at the amount of knowledge on this forum!! Thanks G !!!!
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old Wed 25 November 2009, 13:59
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
I finally understand the "Hitting the screws" comment that Gerald made.

This is basically what the other guys did. I just drew it out so I could make since of it.
Attached Files
File Type: dxf Stop Block.dxf (56.0 KB, 33 views)
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old Wed 25 November 2009, 16:42
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Minor edit to leave as much steel in the part as I can.

I will see if the kerf is wide enough to alow the part to be bent with just a pierce straightline cut of the legs and tab area. (Smile area)
Attached Files
File Type: dxf Stop Block.dxf (54.7 KB, 33 views)
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old Sat 28 November 2009, 11:06
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
Send a message via Skype™ to J.R. Hatcher
I think this may solve a few concerns. By cutting the oval completely out, it can be flipped around if necessary to miss the rail bolts, then welded back in. The 2 stop ears become 1 and are now very strong. The bending also becomes less of a problem. What do you think?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Stop Block jrh mod.jpg (23.9 KB, 309 views)
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old Sat 28 November 2009, 14:52
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
The proxy must have a clear view of the rail - your "bridge" will block the view of the proxy.
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old Sat 28 November 2009, 16:51
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
Send a message via Skype™ to J.R. Hatcher
The drawing is not absolute, I was after the concept. Imagine it tweaked a little so it doesn't sit exactly over the bridge? Someone who understands the material consumed in the bend should tweak it. Thanks
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old Sat 28 November 2009, 21:31
Castone
Just call me: Leo #41
 
Soddy Daisy , Tn
United States of America
Hard stop

I am happy with the one from Geralds original design converted over to a formed part. I have crashed it several times into the stops with no damage or bending other than a little mushrooming on the end from being hit over and over. I can make them out of 100 min yield steel and then there would be no wway of breaking it. But the 50 Min seems to be holding up just fine.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Register Options Profile Last 1 | 3 | 7 Days Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Cutting Letters, Airplane parts and Dinosaurs! #18 - Horsham, Australia Jayson MechMates already cutting 131 Wed 25 April 2012 14:27
Tolerace of the hold-down shaft (M1 30 224T) ? Barman 30. Y-Car 5 Thu 20 January 2011 19:54
M1 18 000 Alternative Stopper Block dmoore 20. Gantry 15 Fri 13 June 2008 13:47
What are the 4 M10x25 Bolts in 10 40 000 A for? dmoore 40. Z-Slide 1 Fri 11 April 2008 00:32
E-Stops - Emergency Stops and then what? Mike John 70. Control Systems 47 Sat 01 September 2007 10:14


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 14:44.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.3
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.