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  #451  
Old Sun 30 November 2008, 07:08
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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I resurfaced my table again. I used a 1" cutter taking a single pass of .070" X .75" @ 1374 ipm with no problems at all. Smoooooooooth
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  #452  
Old Sun 30 November 2008, 08:09
cncb
Just call me: Brian
 
Connecticut
United States of America
no video?
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  #453  
Old Sun 30 November 2008, 10:42
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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Brian watch this and imagine it running 224 ipm faster ......... that's what it looked like.

http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showt...&postcount=430
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  #454  
Old Sat 03 January 2009, 03:43
Nikonauts
Just call me: Nikonauts
 
Johore
Malaysia
Quote:
Originally Posted by J.R. Hatcher View Post
The transmissions work great it makes all the difference in the world, in speed and the way it cuts. Here they are on the MechMate.
hi there, nice gearbox plates you have there.

got a question/suggestion. wouldn't it be better if the gearbox/motor mount rotated 180 degrees so that the motor would be farther to spring, and this will change the center of gravity and helps the spring rather than adding load to it.
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  #455  
Old Sat 03 January 2009, 04:49
Jayson
Just call me: Jayson #18
 
Horsham
Australia
Hi Nikonauts

your question was addressed in post #354

http://mechmate.com/forums/showthrea...&postcount=354

In summary, it makes very little difference which way the motors are mounted.

JR do you still have the reduction files available? My machine is not yet complete and already I want to change it

Great thread by the way, lots of usefull information, just takes a while to read it all.

Regards,

Jayson
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  #456  
Old Wed 04 March 2009, 19:18
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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This was one of my most recent jobs. It has 110 pcs. It is communion cup holders for mounting to the back of church pews. These were made from 5 pcs of 5/8" X 6" X 96" red oak. The holes are 1" in dia. and were cut with a 1/2" bit. The profiles were cut with a 1/4" bit. I used 60 screws to hold them down. Each part had 2 tabs. No screws were damaged during the cutting of this job . How many of you guys can hold your breath for 51 minutes .
Attached Images
File Type: jpg MechMate1 021.JPG (22.9 KB, 2083 views)
File Type: jpg MechMate1 023.JPG (22.9 KB, 2076 views)
File Type: jpg MechMate1 017.JPG (23.8 KB, 2076 views)
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  #457  
Old Wed 04 March 2009, 19:25
gmessler
Just call me: Greg #15
 
Chicago IL
United States of America
Nice job J.R.
Looks like a giant gameboard.
Why so many screws?
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  #458  
Old Wed 04 March 2009, 19:29
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
JR,
That last pic reminds me of a really large cribbage board. The job looks real good though. Are you staining them or is the customer finishing them?
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  #459  
Old Wed 04 March 2009, 19:41
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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Greg the tabs are attached to the 1/4" of wood left between the parts. My reasoning was if that don't move everything will be alright ......... it worked .
Heath the customer took them just like they came off the router.

Thanks
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  #460  
Old Wed 04 March 2009, 20:17
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
JR, glad you found the time to take pics! Wonderful job!

You sure like living dangerously with those screw approaches
(I would have done the screws in the larger scrap area - mirror the cup holders to face away from each other)

You are a very brave man to lay all 5 planks down with one file!
I would have chickened and done one plank at a time
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  #461  
Old Wed 04 March 2009, 22:02
Kobus_Joubert
Just call me: Kobus #6
 
Riversdale Western Cape
South Africa
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Nice Job JR...just show you that if a man knows his tools he can risk it like that. By this time you know where and how the machine will cut, therefore putting in screws is no problem. What I do is lay out all the cut pieces on my cam. In the uncut portions I put small circles to drill holes for the screws. Fix the wood on the sides with a clamp or to. Tell the machine to DRILL those holes first. Screw it down, remove the clamps and cut the rest....the machine will never cut into the hold down screws.....no holding your breath for 51 minutes..
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  #462  
Old Wed 04 March 2009, 22:26
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
What would the big boys with alu topped vacuum tables have done for this job?
.
.
.
wouldn't have accepted it!
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  #463  
Old Thu 05 March 2009, 00:32
kaartman
Just call me: Koning #20
 
Abu Dhabi
United Arab Emirates
JR....tip-top job, nice of you to share trick of the trade Kobus
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  #464  
Old Thu 05 March 2009, 04:38
cncb
Just call me: Brian
 
Connecticut
United States of America
Nice work JR!! They look great. You have solid brass ones let me tell you - you're playing with fire there cutting that close to screws. I agree with others I would have arranged these so that I could safely screw the blanks down even if that meant using more material. I try to screw down blanks and leave min. 1 inch extra over the toolpath to put my screws. Material is cheap, tooling isn't. Plus customers don't pay for broken/chipped router bits. However from someone who has cut through pan head screws before when not paying attention I can say after you do so you never want to get so close to them again. Again thanks for posting the work it looks great!
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  #465  
Old Thu 05 March 2009, 06:10
joecnc2006
Just call me: Joe
 
Texas
United States of America
The easy way to know where the screws are is to clamp material down then make a tool path for screw placement in the waste material which will be left over, run that tool path and place the screws then run the g-code file to cut out parts.
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  #466  
Old Thu 05 March 2009, 06:15
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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Thanks everyone.

Kobus and Joe I use "Sheet Cam" and this was 1 job file with 3 processes, 1 for the cup holes, 1 for the screw holes, 1 for the profile. Since sheet cam will allow turning on or off processes I did saved it as 2 cam files, the first file to drill the screw holes only with the other 2 processes turned off, the second file to cut everything else with screw hole process turned off. I clamped down the boards by the ends, then drilled the holes (file 1) and inserted the screws, removed the clamps and ran file 2. For most of the cutting I wasn't even looking at the machine. I was just being funny about holding my breath . Sooooo Kobus & Joe looks like great minds think alike .

When you have a machine that cuts within a few thousands of an inch whats the difference in missing a screw .005" or 5"

Last edited by J.R. Hatcher; Thu 05 March 2009 at 06:21..
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  #467  
Old Thu 05 March 2009, 06:18
Kobus_Joubert
Just call me: Kobus #6
 
Riversdale Western Cape
South Africa
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hear hear !!! I can see you trust your machine to do exactely what you want...well trained...sit...down boy and the rest.
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  #468  
Old Thu 05 March 2009, 10:11
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
The reason that I want to try and avoid precision machine drilled holes is because the staff in the shop must execute this job in between others. So they would get an instruction to screw a plank to the table, anywhere parallel to z , with screws along the centerline at x= 1, 7, 13, ,20 inches etc (relative to start of plank). Planks to be pre-drilled during previous jobs. Then typically they would run only one file with one 3/8" cutter, for each plank. The files 0,0 would be at the corner of the plank. (They would get a rough sketch and markout with a tape measure).

JR's way is nice and methodical, but our staff ain't.
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  #469  
Old Thu 05 March 2009, 11:07
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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Gerald I am a 1 man shop and you are correct about staff, I would not trust anyone doing what I did until they have proven themselves many times over.
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  #470  
Old Fri 06 March 2009, 04:48
cncb
Just call me: Brian
 
Connecticut
United States of America
By the way JR have you played with carpet tape much? (the fiberglass reinforced stuff) Works really well for small parts like that has a very strong initial tack. I've had great success with it.
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  #471  
Old Fri 06 March 2009, 05:31
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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How do you use it, is it double sided or what?
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  #472  
Old Fri 06 March 2009, 05:41
Kobus_Joubert
Just call me: Kobus #6
 
Riversdale Western Cape
South Africa
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I have used that thin double sided tape as well....works well but cleaning it afterwards is more work than removing a few screws...also on thin MDF is sticks so well you could break the part when you lift it off the table...my 2c worth.
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  #473  
Old Fri 06 March 2009, 08:07
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
J R,

The carpet tape is double sided. So you just have to put it down. It is used to hold two pieces of carpet together.
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  #474  
Old Tue 10 March 2009, 11:59
hennie
Just call me: Hennie #23
 
Roodepoort JHB
South Africa
Kobus,that tape works well I stick to it.
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  #475  
Old Fri 27 March 2009, 13:22
vishnu
Just call me: vishnu
 
Coimbatore(TN)
India
Hi J.R.,

I have made a reduction gear box similar to your design. Please send me details of the parameters to be set in Mach ( more helpful if screen shots are provided)

Vishnu
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  #476  
Old Fri 27 March 2009, 21:06
javeria
Just call me: Irfan #33
 
Bangalore
India
Vishnu meant the motor tuning snapshots
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  #477  
Old Sat 28 March 2009, 07:19
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
Send a message via Skype™ to J.R. Hatcher
Vishnu and Irfan the only way this would work is if everything is exactly the same. The motor degrees (1.8), the rack and pinion, the tranny gears. If you think it's all the same let me know and I'll send the info.
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  #478  
Old Sun 29 March 2009, 00:33
javeria
Just call me: Irfan #33
 
Bangalore
India
the motor is the same - we have 1 module rack, 24 tooth pinions and the same timing pulley config - think Vishnu figured it out using the excel sheet of G.

RGDS
IRfan
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  #479  
Old Sun 29 March 2009, 18:34
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
Irfan,
I think JR has inch based rack because he is in the US. This is the same rack I am going to use as well.
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  #480  
Old Sun 29 March 2009, 20:55
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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Heath you are correct, my rack is 20 degree.
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