#811
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Thanks Hennie, got something on tomorrow morning, but will see how far I get in the afternoon. If I don't come right then I will sure contact you.
I suppose those big holes is where the plunge pipes fit into. I have some 10mm Alu that might work. That middle piece just needs to be bigger, but I will measure it tomorrow...now it's BLERRIE cold and wet out there. Inside the fire is going for the last 2 days already. Just a pity I cannot cut it with old BBB .. |
#813
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it looks like it may breathe through the top also
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#814
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yes they are for the plunge pipes make sure they go in tight and the secure them with a pin,I used 12 mm alu
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#815
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Just got back from a friend that is making chairs and garden benches. I did the engraving for him.....Everybody is happy..
table, display cabinet, garden bench 016.jpg |
#816
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Well after spending the morning with my woodworking buddy I got home as started on my new router bracket. Half an hour later my sisters son came to visit...wanted something cut. No working MM, therfore having coffee and a long chat. Then the work phoned...the contractors finished with the installation of another SDH microwave radio link. Go to work and bring the elements under control on the Network Management system.
Got home after 15:00 and started again on the bracket...lot's of filing by hand and finishing off with the Dremel. Those big holes are 24mm and I don't have a drill that size. Will have to make the ONE BOLT piece that fit onto the Z-plate tomorrow and weld it to these two angle iron pieces.....Getting there. DSC01146.JPG |
#817
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Think of the air exhaust as you build that bracket, and how to deflect the blast away from the cutter.
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#818
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is that machine suitable for the MM? can handle the long period of works?
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#819
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Gerald, the main 2 slots are still open. On my old Makita I left air blowing downwards as is.... not deflecting the air.
Fernando I used a 20 year old 500 Watt Makita for about 2 years on my MechMate... ok I don't cut 24 hours / day 7 day's / week, but it only stopped working because I did not do routine maintenance...... |
#820
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Kobus, do you get the point that, if you leave it as is, the air blows into the puddle of sawdust around the cutter and spreads it over your workshop? So, for a cleaner workshop, some of us put a thin deflector plate/bowl under those slots to deflect the air horizontally above the sawdust.
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#821
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I have read about it in previous posts....2 liter pet Coke bottle etc.
I find that if I use the dust extractor I have not too much dust around, and the air clean the cutting area as I don't use fancy upcut bits. In my workshop a lot of DUST EXTRACTION on the other machines must first be made before my shop is clean. Every now and then I get the GARDEN ENGINEER to sweep and put it on the compost heap. When I cut REAL wood doing 3D I take the dust extraction off as my current foot does not travel with the Z height. I am thinking of getting it to go up and down with the Z-Plate... Currently it is connected only to the Y-Car and when cutting high 3D loose objects this dust foot gets caught on the edge of the piece. Still room for improvement over here on old BBB....after 2 years....never stops |
#822
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Looking good.Are you going to control the speed manually or wire it so you can control it through Mach 3 is that possible.
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#823
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Kobus I will send you some pic`s of my dust extractor maybe it can help.The pipe is a fixture but the dustfoot moves with the router up and down.simple design but it works.only thing is that you don`t see what you are cutting untill it moves away
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#824
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Maybe you should, but I like to watch while it is cutting....even if it is BLUE you cannot trust it as we live in Africa....
Or maybe it is soooooooooooo amazing to see your design taking shape. I compare it to B/W picture developing....Amazing to see that picture appearing. Brad it will be manual...that is another first for me. On the old Makita it was full speed all the time. |
#825
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I was talking to my woodworking buddy and he mentioned that his wife works at some company that imports dairy products from overseas.
The stuff is shipped on wooden pallets 1000 mm x 1200 mm and on top of the pallet is a sheet of 13 mm chipboard (nice firm imported stuff). They are having a problem getting rid of the stuff and is selling the sheet of chipboard for R 5.00 and a pallet at R 10.00 Anybody want some....going cheap...R 20.00 / pallet and R 10.00 a sheet for the chipboard.... |
#826
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I think you have been working at Eishkom for too long - managements bad habits are rubbing off on you.
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#827
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Kobus,
Really enjoying your index work ,wish you were close bye. |
#828
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That is the plus point of living in the city. Pity that it will cost to much to get those wood down here.
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#829
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Alan for you my friend I will even throw in the nails on the pallet for free...and all.
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#830
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How many do you have Kobus
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#831
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Lot's... 100 plus of each easy
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#832
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Houston we have lift-off.. Old BBB is running again. I did not have my usual Friday off , but managed to finish my bracket last night. This morning it was the final fitment and straight into cutting.
The bracket maybe UGLY, but I think it is the strongest bracket on the MM forum. I also fitted a plug to isolate the power to the router when changing bits...something that was lacking for the last 2 years. DSC01151.JPG DSC01152.JPG DSC01154.JPG Check out Gerald's one-bolt patented design for fitting the bracket to the Z-Plate... Works like a charm. |
#833
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Good to hear she alive again!
I just noticed the Y car has no apparent y stop brackets? I don't see any bolts for it? How are you doing this? I'm just curious because I'm at this stage in my build. Thanks, Travis |
#834
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Hi Travis, yes, and what a difference. I could not understand it when the people on the forum mentioned cutting a 9mm slot 6-8mm deep in one pass. My old 500W just could not do it. With the new 1100W Skil I pushed it to 3.5mm deep cuts on the weekend and it did not even moan and groan at me. I am sure that with more professional cutters I will achieve bigger and deeper cuts without a problem.
Stop's, proxy switches....they all cost money and complicate things. I know there will be a BIG shout again on SAFETY etc, but in the 2 nearly years that I operated my machine, I have never run off the rail or cut into a clamp. Know your machine, know how to operate it, use a tape measure and check where you are going to cut in relation with the picture that you have designed and use common sense all the time. Check check and double check your setup before you start to cut. In a WORKING / SHOP environment it should be different, but as a one man band operating my own machine at home, I don't think I will complicate my life. I like to keep it simple. I don't even use OFFSETS in Mach3. I make sure my picture is on 0,0 in the drawing. I jog my machine to the 0,0 point where my material is and where I WANT to start my cut. I check on computer and make sure that I have sufficient X and Y material available as per the design. Once this is all checked and set I click start and I am sure she will not run away from me. This is my way of doing it, and if anybody wants to follow my advice they do it because they WANT to do it as well. If they harm or kill themselves, I am not to blame. Last edited by Kobus_Joubert; Tue 04 May 2010 at 14:39.. |
#835
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Never mind the safety side of leaving out stops, I am curious how you set the gantry square to the table . . . . what do you use for your reference points?
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#836
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Gerald, maybe I don't understand the gantry square concept.
When I build my machine I used the gantry to line up my rails. To me my gantry is running square to my table. When I switch power on to the machine, I hear the two X-steppers give a CLUNCK. I then jog it to my starting position, zero the system on MACH3 and let rip. Had no problems so far that I know off. Do you mean that if my gantry is not squared by some means, that it will fall off the track.... well if this is the case, I never had this problem. |
#837
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Kobus it is just easyer to start if you have those stops lets say if by some reason that there is power failures or the motors lose steps ....to get it to 0,0 point.If you have those when you start in the morning pull the gantry against the stops that you know is set square to your x-rails and switch the machine on.You know that the stops are your 0,0 points.Makes setting up the MM much quicker.I also did it the same way that you did it but once Gerald explained it to me on one of my visits to Cape Town it just makes more sence.I have two stops on my 0,0 side and a bolt to stop the gantry on the other.
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#838
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Now I understand as well. That was a bit of a grey area before for me too.
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#839
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my grey area was burned up by tamboekiegras. ..I still need to see it happen to see if I benefit.
If I cut the same BIG size parts all day, I see the point, but I cut something small here, something small there on the other side of the table and so it carries on. I never start at my table 0,0 twice. Last edited by Kobus_Joubert; Wed 05 May 2010 at 03:57.. |
#840
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OnLy In BrAkPaN
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