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  #661  
Old Wed 26 March 2014, 17:05
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
Gerry, Just wait for it, its coming (in mid April probably), ha ha
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  #662  
Old Thu 27 March 2014, 05:03
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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7.....that's a nice summer day around here
here's a look at this morning situation :


Weather.jpg

.....
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  #663  
Old Thu 27 March 2014, 05:17
darren salyer
Just call me: Darren #101
 
Wentzville mo
United States of America
Ouch...no thanks.
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  #664  
Old Thu 27 March 2014, 08:23
ger21
Just call me: Ger
 
Detroit, MI
United States of America
7F = -14C
We're even, lol.
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  #665  
Old Thu 27 March 2014, 12:38
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Aaaa....true.....your in F !
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  #666  
Old Thu 27 March 2014, 16:41
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
There will not be Spring, only the unprepared move from Winter to Summer.
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  #667  
Old Thu 27 March 2014, 16:51
darren salyer
Just call me: Darren #101
 
Wentzville mo
United States of America
LOL....
Have we derailed this thread enough yet?
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  #668  
Old Thu 27 March 2014, 16:52
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Quote:
Originally Posted by darren salyer View Post
LOL....
Have we derailed this thread enough yet?
You could sum up my 4th axis project with that
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  #669  
Old Thu 27 March 2014, 16:53
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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If we ever see summer

Derailed....naaa.....some just got.....frozen ...
R
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  #670  
Old Thu 27 March 2014, 17:05
darren salyer
Just call me: Darren #101
 
Wentzville mo
United States of America
LOL. You are both funny.
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  #671  
Old Thu 27 March 2014, 18:32
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Flickr fixed the problem so I will post it here finally.

This is cut right from the machine with only a stiff brush cleanup, no sanding. Total size was 16.25" x 10.875" of stain grade pine. File was 655k lines of code. Used Beckwith 1/8" tapered ballnose and detailed with 1/16" tapered ballnose and profile cut with 1/4" bit. I feel comfortable now to proceed with the next cutout. Have a 30" x 30" x 1.5" piece here to carve but was a little nervous after any hardware change. This will most likely be given away as is to whoever wants it at work.


Test Cut after PMDX-108 Input card installed
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  #672  
Old Thu 27 March 2014, 19:06
darren salyer
Just call me: Darren #101
 
Wentzville mo
United States of America
Nice detail on the tree and antlers.
I have a few Beckwith bits as well.
They cut very well.
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  #673  
Old Thu 27 March 2014, 19:12
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
I have been more than please with them
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  #674  
Old Fri 28 March 2014, 02:31
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Pete....I have little experimentation in cnc sculpting !
You result looks very well done and intrigue me as, could you tell us more on what those tapper ball nose contributed vs a regular straight ball nose...aside of what I may assume...being more rigid and prone to brake !
tks
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  #675  
Old Fri 28 March 2014, 06:26
darren salyer
Just call me: Darren #101
 
Wentzville mo
United States of America
I'm not Pete, but I find the taper lets you reach deeper into a carving without fouling the details carved in a previous cut layer, if that makes sense.
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  #676  
Old Fri 28 March 2014, 06:57
ger21
Just call me: Ger
 
Detroit, MI
United States of America
Tapers also ten do be quite a bit longer than straight ballnose. You can a 1/16" tapered ballnose 1" long I think, where a 1/16" straight ballnose would only be 1/4" long.
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  #677  
Old Fri 28 March 2014, 12:05
darren salyer
Just call me: Darren #101
 
Wentzville mo
United States of America
Gerry is correct, the cutting length is longer as well as OAL, usually.
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  #678  
Old Fri 28 March 2014, 14:42
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
This has been fairly well answered here but I will try to contribute a little more. The taper angle of 3 is fluted the entire taper to the shank. This produces a stronger tool with an longer overall length. It prevents burning the work piece as well because you do not have a shank turning/rubbing the wood and burning it.
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  #679  
Old Sat 05 April 2014, 10:07
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Touch Probe Update

The touch probe I built based on the designs from hmsc has proved to be precise and accurate. The plans did not have any compensation for fine tuning. I believe this was intentional and for the end user to make their own based on the mount. I fell back to using set screws with a V groove to allow to lock the position in from the side when the pressure is from set from the top with the opposing screws.

I did a quick alignment today to set it up. Within five minutes the probe is set to within 0.0004" error between to rotational checks at 90 and 270 and 0.0000" at rotational checks at 0 and 180. I checked each side 5 times to record any error and each one stopped at the same readout every time.

Overall I am please with the outcome of the probe. It would not be accurate for metal work but more than accurate enough for wood working.
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  #680  
Old Sat 05 April 2014, 12:07
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
May I place my order Sir?
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  #681  
Old Sun 13 April 2014, 09:04
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Maybe
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  #682  
Old Sun 13 April 2014, 09:17
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
I am working on another sign but also have to watch the kids. So finishing a sign takes a lot of time for me. The kids like to play Chinese Checkers so I thought why not draw one up in Aspire. This is the rendered image of the wavefront obj that I exported from Aspire and rendered in Blender.



Chinese Checker Board Blender Rendered, on Flickr
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  #683  
Old Sun 13 April 2014, 20:05
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
The kids and the older kids will have a lot of fun with that. Very nice.
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  #684  
Old Sun 13 April 2014, 20:11
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
That is what I am hoping too. Thanks for the kind words.
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  #685  
Old Mon 14 April 2014, 16:56
tnarch
Just call me: Tuan
 
Milwaukee WI
United States of America
Pete, beautiful board. have you tried blender cam? it's a WIP, but looks to be very promising.
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  #686  
Old Mon 14 April 2014, 17:02
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
No I haven't, but I will watch and see how it matures.
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  #687  
Old Mon 14 April 2014, 19:05
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Just cut, no sanding or finishing yet.


Just Cut Chinese Checkers , on Flickr
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  #688  
Old Mon 14 April 2014, 19:14
darren salyer
Just call me: Darren #101
 
Wentzville mo
United States of America
Very cool. What type of bit did you use?
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  #689  
Old Mon 14 April 2014, 19:52
dbinokc
Just call me: DB #118
 
Oklahoma
United States of America
Wow, very nice! Looking on ebay, I see boards going for over $100 and not near as nice as what you have done.
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  #690  
Old Mon 14 April 2014, 20:46
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Darren,
I used many bits. 90 & 60 degree V bits, 1/4" & 1/2" round nose, ogee, 1/4" spiral upcut. All Freud and Onsrud bits.

DB,
The funny thing is I was looking for a nice board and saw the prices then I thought I have wood here, why don't I make one.
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