#1
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Adjustable and/or isolating feet under table legs?
Hi all,
I’m wondering if there could be any negative draw back to include / install some adjustable feet to the base table. Say a +/- 3” diam. Better yet, could it be a desirable option ? Could this have some instability, vibration...etc issues ? Would it need a anti-vibration type, something similar to this RY-27001 ? Greg, what’s your to date experience with yours on your set up ? Could I ask you to see if what you have is like McMaster-Carr #62805K - - ( 41? ). Thanks, Robert |
#2
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You are are covering two separate subjects here:
1. Adjustable for levelling the table relative to the floor 2. Vibration isolation to prevent table noise from going into the floor. . . . In our case, the adjustable/levelling is not required because the concrete is level. But, the people downstairs were complaining of the irritating noise, so rubber was added. RPM246 from http://www.rpm.co.za/ |
#3
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Robert,
My table needs the leveling feet. I'm not a professional welder and my fabrication shows that. The leveling feet made it easy for adjustments and making the table level. I used rectangular tubing for the base. McMaster has inserts that the feet screw into. Very simple and neat. Here are the p/n and cost/ea. 60945K51 Load-Rated Tube Adapter 3/4"-10 Thrd, Fits 2" X 3" OD, 11 GA Wall, Nylon $10.34/ea 6111K59 Swivel Leveling Mount with Stud Nickel-Pltd Stl, 3/4"-10 Thrd, 2" Bolt, 7400# Load $18.97/ea |
#4
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The first choice on a concrete floor would be to screw it down hard to the floor, like you would do with other heavy tools in a workshop.
However, this isn't really important for the MM's performance (there is plenty of weight in the static table), and I wouldn't spend too much time and $'s in this area. |
#5
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For those looking at adjustable feet...my simple solution - weld 16mm nut to foot plate, turn 4 disks with dimple, 16mm bolt and lock nut = ample adjustment for the worst floors, simple cheap and strong. The same system is used on our moulders at work and they only use 10mm bolts
Last edited by Alan_c; Sun 17 August 2008 at 02:43.. |
#6
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Cheap Feet
This is how to made some cheap feet. Take a 3" steel washer and weld a 1/2" washer in the hole, then use a rubber roller replacement part for a boat trailer. Now add a 7/16" flat washer that actually comes with a 1/2" hole and a 1/2" bolt of the right length and you have a very substantial, very cheap foot. Total cost came in under $3.00 ea.
When the distance between the 3" washer and leg was determined I cut a length of 3/4" black pipe to fill the space. Picture #1 Link for rubber part: http://www.agrisupply.com/3-end-cap-.../30321/c2p/cs/ OR ........... Some time later it occurred to me there are a lot of potential 3" washers being thrown away. Guess where the 1/4" X 3" washers in picture #2 came from? Correct, picture # 3 and donated by the laser cutter (as in free). Marc and I added the hole in the center to the DXF drawings and it became a laser cut washer instead of scrap metal. |
#7
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JR....You made it again, simplicity is beautiful
Thanks for sharing this nice DIY feet, very much appreciated. Amicalement, Robert |
#8
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Mamba Parts
I think I am going to add the 1/4 inch washers to the Mamba set of parts I get cut. If they charge anything for them, it couldn't be much.
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#9
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There is no rule that says the feet must be circular.
Rectangular strips of flat bar with pieces of old tyre glued on, will also isolate vibration. Wood blocks could also do the levelling. This is a really low-tech area. |
#10
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J.R.'s Leg Levelers
Copied from Laser cut parts shipped out from Sweet Home Alabama:
Since I saw J.R.'s Leg Levelers I knew I had to have/make them. And I did! I have included four 3" round disk in last 20 sets I've sent out. The Manufacture of the rubber part has agreed to sell them to me for about (parts$ + shipping$ =) $1.50 each. I ordered 120 pieces so let me know if you are interested. Joe |
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