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  #1  
Old Mon 03 December 2007, 11:19
shaperx
Just call me: Mark
 
San Diego,Ca
United States of America
Need help with some part #

Hi, I have the Pmdx 122 the gecko 203vs .Im looking at McMaster link for the 35mm Din Rail ,
Termainlal blocks PG.713 Not sure how many to order

Contactor Relay for the E-stop Pg. 858 Not sure of part #
load breack switch PG. 823 looks like part #7277K51
The E-Stop from link the 29, 40 or 60mm E-stop, Pushlock Turn or Key Reset
Idec HW, Non-Illuminated link
For the PS the PS-6N56R5 for what I have listed do I need the 500 to 800 va Or the 300 to 500 va

For motors the PK296A1A-SG7.2 2
Are there any parts I have over looked?

Before I order I need to be sure.Table size is 4'x16' with a router
Thanks
Mark
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  #2  
Old Mon 03 December 2007, 17:37
Richards
Just call me: Mike
 
South Jordan, UT
United States of America
Mark,
The DIN rail and terminal blocks are electronic components that you can find at www.factorymation.com or www.automation4less.com. Normally the terminal blocks come packaged 100 to a box, which is ample. If you have an electrical supply house near you, give them a call and see what they offer. Although their prices will probably be 100% higher than the on-line sellers, their expertise will be worth the price difference - especially when you're building a one-time project.

You've selected the PK296A1A-SG7.2 motor. That is an excellent motor, but I prefer the PK296A2A-SG7.2 motor. The A2A motor matches the G203v better, especially if you wire it using the Bipolar Series wiring method.

The voltage of the power supply will depend on how you wire the motor and on which motor you select. I wire my A2A motors half-coil, which means that a 30VDC power supply is ideal. If I wired the A2A motors Bipolar Series, I would use a power supply in the range of 50VDC to 60VDC. If I used A1A motors wired Bipolar Series, I would use a 70VDC power supply. For an A1A motor wired half-coil, a 70VDC power supply would still work very well, but I would probably select something closer to 60VDC to keep the heat down just a little. To determine the VA rating to use, add the Amp requirement for all the motors and multiply that by the AC voltage coming out of the transformer. That will give you the VA or Volts X Amps requirement. (You can multiply the DC voltage by 0.71 to find the AC voltage coming out of the transformer on an unregulated power supply.) If the VA number is close to the rating of the power supply, I normally select the next larger power supply. I like electronic parts to run cool. They seem to last much longer that way.
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  #3  
Old Mon 03 December 2007, 23:35
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
With the 203V drive the PK296A1A-SG7.2 motor is not the best choice. This motor has too much inductance for this drive when wired series. Use the PK296A2A-SG7.2 motor with the 203V drive if you want to be able to wire half-coil or full coil.
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  #4  
Old Tue 04 December 2007, 17:20
shaperx
Just call me: Mark
 
San Diego,Ca
United States of America
Thanks for catching that on the motors I just orded the PK296A2A-SG7.2 motor.For the main switch I need 4 poles to break the 3 phases Live and the Neutral lines.Will the 25 Amps do the job.Automation4less part #KU340N-SH-KIT

Contactor relay for E-Stop Will the Automatio4less part #GMC-12M-10-AC120V ?
For the E-stop button the Automation4less part# 2ALMPP4-110
Looking at the Main Power wiring post I see router a relay or ssr.I need help with this one.

For the PS I came up with the PS-8N56R12 John at Antek
Are there any other parts I have over looked Im trying to order it all in one shot.
Thanks
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  #5  
Old Tue 04 December 2007, 22:04
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Mark, and everybody else, dozens of shopping lists get PM'ed to me, and I want to use this opportunity to explain why you might not be getting a reply....

It is difficult for me to say yes or no to your shopping list. In this mains voltage electrical stuff, there are thousands of choices. Most of them can release smoke if wrong. That's if you are lucky. If unlucky, you can get burnt, or worse. I am not qualified, or certified, to make these choices. Actually, I have no experience of your voltages and terminology.

Also, I really don't enjoy having to google your potential suppliers, find the right spec sheet, download it, and then say yes, or get involved in long reasons why no. To do that properly, one also has to download spec sheets of nearest alternatives and then say if there is a better choice. Sorry, but I don't have the time. Please don't take it personally, and get the impression that I am ignoring you.

But, I do appreciate it if the more experienced members chip in to help the others. It will help everyone though if you give links direct to the spec sheets of the components that you want to buy.
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  #6  
Old Wed 05 December 2007, 01:56
Doug_Ford
Just call me: Doug #3
 
Conway (Arkansas)
United States of America
Once I get my control box up and running and I've made the motors spin, I'll post a list of the parts in it, their part numbers, and the company I ordered them from. Hopefully, that will answer the mail for most of the builders who want to construct a 110V system and are willing to order from Factorymation.com.
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  #7  
Old Wed 05 December 2007, 06:23
Richards
Just call me: Mike
 
South Jordan, UT
United States of America
The GMC-12M-10-AC120V is rated for 12A. On my testbench, where I only run four steppers, I have an 18A contactor. My rule of thumb is that the contactor MUST handle all of the current that could ever be pulled from the breaker box. So, if I have a 15A breaker/fuse in the subpanel, I would have a minimum of a 15A contactor. If I have a 20A breaker/fuse than I would have a 20A contactor, etc.

I use that same thought pattern for all electrical components. For me, the breaker/fuse determines the wire gauge and the current rating of all components downstream. To put it another way, if I have a 20A fuse in my subpanel, then I would have at least 12-gauge wire downstream until another smaller breaker or fuse was in the line and then I would have wire and components capable of handling all of the current that that fuse/breaker allowed to pass. By doing that, the fuse/breaker will fault before you have a fire.
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  #8  
Old Fri 15 February 2008, 21:04
revved_up
Just call me: Craig
 
Hartland, MI
United States of America
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug_Ford View Post
Once I get my control box up and running and I've made the motors spin, I'll post a list of the parts in it, their part numbers, and the company I ordered them from. Hopefully, that will answer the mail for most of the builders who want to construct a 110V system and are willing to order from Factorymation.com.
Doug, have you ever had a chance to do this?
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  #9  
Old Sat 16 February 2008, 12:30
Doug_Ford
Just call me: Doug #3
 
Conway (Arkansas)
United States of America
Sorry Craig. I've been trying to square the Y axis to the X axis and learn Sheetcam and Mach3. I'll try to come up with a list this weekend. My apologies.
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  #10  
Old Sat 16 February 2008, 12:35
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Doug,
How is that sheetcam coming along? I would be interested to know how well you like the nesting and layout features as well as ease of use.

I still have A GREAT deal of tweaking to do in Mach3 and squaring the machine next week....and longer
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  #11  
Old Sat 16 February 2008, 13:25
revved_up
Just call me: Craig
 
Hartland, MI
United States of America
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug_Ford View Post
Sorry Craig. I've been trying to square the Y axis to the X axis and learn Sheetcam and Mach3. I'll try to come up with a list this weekend. My apologies.
I was not trying to rush anybody on here who is willing to help, no apologies needed. I was just curious if you had ever gotten that far. I am going to start ordering my box and guts soon so if you had it would have been a big help is all.
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  #12  
Old Mon 18 February 2008, 09:33
Marc Shlaes
Just call me: Marc
 
Cleveland, OH
United States of America
Send a message via Skype™ to Marc Shlaes
For me, SheetCam was easy to learn to use -- to a point. I found some very curious cutting paths. I plan to post some jobs we cut on the SheetCam forum and try to get some help on optimization. I have read everything and played with many / most of the optimization settings and still it created paths with an awful lot of unnecessary rapids. The jobs could have seemingly cut in much less time. I'll report what I find out from Les and the other users on the forum.
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