Work Horse Rebuild - Lac-Brome, Quebec, CA

[normand blais]

Hé Bob
Té tu seul a travailler ce matin y a juste toi sur le forum . Je m'en va a l'école emploi Québec m'offre un cour de zbrush de 160hrs c,est a 10 rue de chez moi que chu chanceux. C'est moi le papi dans la classe. La fin de sem passé j,ai été invité a un symposium de sculpture sur bois a Trois-Rivieres ,les gosseux et mortaiseux était incertain ,la défence ,l'attaque ,la fuite ,l'autruche ,la découverte ,chacun y est aller a sa façon . Quand le neu pousse sul vieux faut que sa sorte. Pendant que notre clown national spin autour dla boule ,le reste de nos concitoyens traine encore de la patte. Tu va en faire capoter toi pi ta bête
Normand

[Robert M]

Gerald, in regard to this post, can one make wheel with Nylatron ( BTW, Nylatron is nice stuff in my experience & opinion...machines well with most woodworking tools ! ) ?
I’ve used UHMW, HDPE, Nylatron…but Ertalyte ??
Intimidated by this material I’ve never heard of
How can it compare vs Nylatron for this V-wheel application?
Regard, Robert

[domino11]

Robert, Why the change to nylon type wheels, are you having trouble getting the size 3 wheels? I might be able to help if thats the case.

[Robert M]

Thanks Health....but have a look at my post #1, 2nd photo -> center-top left....
Had them for over 18 mounts waiting to rock & roll
No health, this is not to change….I just want to explore & learn on other alternatives…..
Robert

[Gerald D]

Replied at: V-Wheels machined from PET plastic (Ertalyte)

[Robert M]

Hi guys… Now my turn to make time to share some of my making & mistake steps !

Well… what to edit as my 1st update ?
Sitting in from of my computer and saying to myself, man…soooo many to tell….where to start !

I got in to Sooo many obstacle & unexpected time consuming that has slowed down my build, but all & all, it is very interesting to say the least ;0)
My press drill as become my most cost effective toll I ever bought in my whole life. At over twenty years of service, I just can’t remember when it has drilled so much in metal in such a short time. It’s because I’m making my build as a bolt-on version.

1st reason for bolt on, it will see its first “steps” in my basement to only be moved in a specific space, say latest end 2010…. Considering I’m alone to do all this … longer to make this initial build, but easier to assemble, disassemble, to eventually move this beast!
By the look of thing done to date, I’m not going to fire it up much before end of November if lucky…pita !
This delay as also giving me another problem to manage. Painting it.
I was planning to paint it outdoor, in one of those portable outdoor car shelter
When I plunged in this beast making, I was confident to do this while outdoor temps would still average a decent temp of +/- 10° to 15°c…Now , it’s averaging +/- 0° to 5° on a sunny day !!...Just getting to cold and colder it will become …snow is on it's way soon as evenings & nights are averaging 0° and less…!! .

So, lately, I’m fishing for a small low cost friendly body shop that would do this for me or have me rent space at a lowest cost possible…I'll follow-up on this !

Now, some 1st photos for you guys :
I first started tack welding the sides using the main beams as an assembly table by first, using left over C3 to eye ball the paralleling.
paralleling_new_welding_table.jpg

Then stated tack-welding the side structure :

Welding_sides_1.jpg

Then the bolt-on top plates
Welding_sides_top-plates.jpg

Yep.... space in my case is a true luxery
Can't wait to show you guys where the beast will make it's first steps...

ANyway....
then, main beams caps

Main_beams_ends_1.jpg

Amaizing what those flapper wheel can do ....

Main_beams_ends_2.jpg


Started by drilling support board holes in the C3, and then for the ends, two smaller one for the roll pin, assisting me for futur re-assembly alignment !

Table_bearer-end_roll-pin_holes.jpg

Then Fun with this valley making :

Valley_welding_jig - 1rs.jpg
Valley_welding_jig -2rs.jpg
Valley_welding_jig -3rs.jpg

final valley welding !

Valley_welding_jig - 4rs.JPG
Valley_welded - 1.JPG
On done, 7 to go....


BTW.... the pics is to show the differance between 3/8 & 1/4 inche bevel washer in the C3 !
Bevel_washers_025+0375.jpg

Well....told ya ...had lots to tell.....
Not over yet, but enough for today.
Will be back with more of my delayed rail making and some other photos...
I want to Thanks those who had some patience with me....

Enjoy, Later...Robert

[Atifeh]

Robert,

Congratulation on your very neat and precise working. Very inspiring method for clamping parts and squaring.
Somewhere I read:"The wealth of a workshop is in its numbers of clamps". You are a wealthy man.

[Robert M]

Thanks Nader, coming from you, I’ll take it as I too admire your work

Ok….must admit… I’ll be way behind from my initial anticipated finish date
So many obstacles and other regular business mater to take care of that I’ll be a happy guy if I can finish it by end of November
Just last week, no work , shop or Beast making since off for 5 day due to a V-close relative passed away.
2 Weeks before, had to work to on an order to “inoculate” my bank account

Soooo, little progress…but still moving ahead little by little every day !
Latest, the Z-slide !
Here are some pics :

Z-slide_1rs.jpg
Made from a std 4” x 36” A2 tool steel, I started to grind the V.
Easy & fast indeed, less than 90 minutes with a coffee break

Then printed out my holes diagram to after tack-glue transfer the print out on the Z-slide.

Z-slide_Making-1rsjpg.jpg
Z-slide_Making-2rs.jpg

Puched the centers,

Z-slide_Making-3rs.jpg
Z-slide_Making-4rs.jpg

Drill Pilot holes through Z-plate into the Z-plate tube.
Z-slide_Making-7rs.jpg


Then, Chamfer
Z-slide_Making-9rs.jpg

The whole works, start to finish took me a little less than 5 hrs…. long, but not so bad for a Woodworker

More to follow next week-end !
Amicalement, Robert

[smreish]

...exactly how I did my z-slides.

[Robert M]

Sean... How long it took you, start to finish on that one alone !

Fun & easy to do, don’t get me wrong ! …but…. At +/- 300$ to sub at a machine shop material included, I still think it could be worth it if you own a business and time IS money…
Rather make money on making furniture than this part, as it’s fool proof to sub, in my opinion…. But was fun to learn & do !
Thanks for pushing me doing it...Robert

[Robert M]

One question / option that been bothering me and I’m still not certain about ?

As for the screwing in place the rails on the main table beams, original design are to be hold down by screws & tap holes in the main beams.
Anything not right by no taping holes and going instesd w-drill through holes to then use screws, nuts and those bevel washers ?!?

Reasons I’m looking at this second option, I tend to imagine it would be faster & easier to do ( and as good) vs the drilling and tedious task of making those threads in the beams !?
Thanks, Robert

[smreish]

Robert, I have done both.

The bolt option works, it's just a bit of a pain to align the washer on each and every one as you move along. I would make sure NOT to over drill the beam hole and keep that is close to tolerance as the bolt size to minimize movement of the fastener/rail during machine vibrations.

Tapping those 5/16" holes with my screw gun only took about 20 mins for all of them.

Use the right lubricant and get tapping with a spiral point tap.

[Robert M]

Yep, thanks Sean…I’ll kick my butt and tap with a little more patience

I’m usually a very patient guy on elaborate & tedious work, but I’ll be honest …. I’m getting really anxious to get this project moving a bit faster and hate the thought of hand taping so many holes…a repetitive boring task
Till you told me you did yours with a drill, I was a little intimidated using my battery screw gun to tap, as I had a few time ( not on this project although) broken taps in the hole while in hand / manual mode…I would just hate to see this happen on this project this time

Bear in mind, loving this steel making experience with this project, but it’s neither my field expertise nor hobby to play making stuff with steel.
When no experience, I tend to move slower and more intimidated, afraid to screw up what I fell can happen…. Thinking of a Murphy’s law…. (doesn’t he say something like…When thing are going alright, something wrong is bound to happen…. Close to that !!)

What lube do you use?

I’ve use drilling & tapping oil for all my drilling ( a darn there is a lot of holes in my bolt on project !! ) and seems fine, but did not try it for tapping…YET !!

Well…Thanks again Sean…needed that push..
Amicalement, Robert

[Robert M]

Nothing like a simple test

Well, broke my barrier…Did it with my drill / screw gun…

Tapping test.jpg

Twice taped in C-3 as a test and all went super fine & easy with some treading / tapping oil.
Did this a few time in alu before, but was afraid to even think trying this drill thing in steel….May be I over lubed it, but rather a little more oil than a broken tap !!
Goes to say….give it a try, you may be surprised !!
Thanks again….Later, Robert

[Robert M]

Thanks for your advice Gerald …. ( great to see your back )

Right after my success test, I went along and proceed thread making as per my chart ( pilot hole with a final step at 6.8mm in order to thread M8-1.25).
Before every hole, I was cleaning the tap with a tooth brush & lightly dipping it in to oil and proceeded to the next …a charm to do !
A sean said, +/- 20 minutes to do all !!

Thread_making_main_beam.jpg

To some who may wonder, In this photo bear in mind the metal residue on top of the beam is an accumulation from drilling pilots & tapping !...not just tapping…

Thanks Gerald & Sean for the support & tips…. More to come, Robert

[jehayes]

Robert: How did you make the full scale printed page with the Z-Plate holes? I assume it is from drawing 10 40 334 but how do you scale it to full size? Thanks Joe

[Robert M]

Joe,
My Z-plate is not from original drawing plans, although are very similar dim specs, I’ve drawn from my own out of another drawing software !
With the original PDF plans you can do the same technique as I did but need to convert those pdf in some other cad software in order to get original 1:1 scaling.
It can be done with most ( if not any) small regular printers. You want to select the “Tile print, Tile all pages” or for some called “ tiling enable”.
This allows your printer software to map out on several pages what you have selected to be printed on more than one page.
Problem in this example with the original MechMate PDF drawings, the drawings are scaled down to fit common paper size ( A4 or letter size).
So, on this Z-Plate example, take autocad or most any other cad software and draw your own or convert the pdf in your favorite cad software and from that software, print out the drawing, not scale down using the option “tile printing” and viola on how it can be done.

Hope this can help, amicalement Robert

[jehayes]

Robert: Thanks, I thought that might be the case and I am laying the holes out in TurboCad. Once finished, with Gerald's permission, I will post the DXY and/or DWG files for others to use. Joe

[jehayes]

Here is a DXF file for the 14" Z-Slide hole layout template. It needs to be printed full scale in tiled mode per Robert's note.

[KenC]

Robert,
Wonderful build! Love your organized progress, I can emulate your work on my slow progressing build.

A stupid question, those tap on your hand drills are just normal tapping tools?

Cheers

Ken

[zenair10]

Robert,,,beautiful!!!
hope to see this mm working!!!

[Robert M]

Merci Mario...your welcome anytime, simply PM a few days before. Robert

[Robert M]

Long overdue to report my progress and new phots !

Well… It’s been a real roller coaster ride since day one I’ve committed to start my build, and not over yet….Although a real positive & good experience for me.
Lately, had to put a halt to the build as money and some committed commission orders to do and…well.... also been shopping for a building to move in as you will notice through some photos, space is at premium for me !

The Y-car :
Shop set up ( from woodworking to part time metal welder ! ), assembling parts, welding & grinding then picking up and storing after = one full evening ( +/- 4-5hrs for me ! )

For this one, all & all it was easy and straight forward to do. Being alone, clamps are a must as low cost labor / extra hands for any assembly….without the moaning !
the dry fit :

Y-car_1rs.jpg

Squaring it and triple confirming its squareness !

Y-car_square_1rs.jpg

A few clamps to help tack welding and ….

Y-car_few-claps.jpg

DIY tack welder...

Y-car_tack_welder.jpg

Tack finished

Y-car_tack-weld-rs.jpg

Full welds and …..voilà after a little clean up of those tack !

Y-car_finito.jpg

[Robert M]

Another step which required a full evening of work !
Here’s a dry fit & squaring the assy on a shop made box frame base that I use for various work set up as my “poor man machinist marble table” as a solid, straight & true base, then for this, I topped it with a sacrificial melamine board I bought for this beast project as a welding surface !.

Dry-fit_+_squaring_1rs.jpg

A close up of squaring it ( shop-made polycarbonate square )

Tack_gantry_1rs.jpg

After tack welding, 2ble checking squarness, full welds

PB150009.JPG

and viola, the gantry completed….. then cleaning up, storing things to get shop ready for next morning work !
Later

[riesvantwisk]

Have been reading with great interest,

good job Robert!

Ries

[Robert M]

Ries, thanks for the support.
Watching your build, wishing you a nice “kitchen science” running test !
Amicalement, Robert

[Kobus_Joubert]

Well done so far Robert. This will be a machine that will be in the top of the class. Keep us informed

[Gerald D]

Nice work! (It took me a while to spot the "shop-made polycarbonate square")

[Claudiu]

Great going Robert,

good looking parts so far.
I also like your tool collection.

Greetings
Claus

[KenC]

Great progress! You are making me look lazy!

Watching your progress with great admiration.