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  #61  
Old Tue 13 November 2007, 21:08
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Hey, that looks familiar.

(The nearest cross-support; you might want to turn it around for looks)
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  #62  
Old Tue 13 November 2007, 21:15
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Gerald,
Revision 2 will be a turn about. If you remember, that pipe welds at about a 7 degree angle. I had to "stretch" to make that weld sound and keep the end frame removable. Thus, the end frames are "handed". The Next table I will change that 2.5 x 2.5 angle to channel for easier welding and better vertical alignment.
Hey Doug....that eagle eye in SAB catches my stuff too!

Last edited by smreish; Tue 13 November 2007 at 21:31..
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  #63  
Old Tue 13 November 2007, 21:43
Doug_Ford
Just call me: Doug #3
 
Conway (Arkansas)
United States of America
Beautiful Sean. I'm anxiously watching your progress.
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  #64  
Old Tue 13 November 2007, 22:43
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Sean, I am not talking of the support with the pipe frame under - Look at the nearest (to camera) support

SAB? That is South African Breweries (the guys who own Miller beer). We are commonly known as SA. However, we are "officially" known as ZA when we put it on vehicles (cars, trucks, aircraft). Call-signs for SA registered ships and planes start Z. And our currency is abbreviated ZAR (for South African Rands). Strangely enough, this Z has nothing to do with all the Z's in Africa (Zimbabwe, Zambia, Tanzania, Mozambique, Azania). . . . . it comes from the Dutch "Zuid-Afrika". . . . . unless the other Z's also come from Dutch?)
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  #65  
Old Wed 14 November 2007, 04:59
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
...right! Cross member, not support. Got it...Yep - shouldn't post late in the evening! But, Guess what - I am really glad you caught that because now I realize I put all the cross members back during reassembly the wrong direction. All the open faces of the c-channel should face centerline - not away. Good Catch. When all else fails - look at the drawings. (apologies for the slight of abbreviation - my world geography and nomenclature is lacking) heck, I live in the south. Which in the USA is an entire separate continent from the rest of the world anyway

Last edited by smreish; Wed 14 November 2007 at 05:06..
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  #66  
Old Wed 14 November 2007, 05:57
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
Looking good Sean. I am eager to be able to come over for a up close view.

For everyone else, I am fortunate to live about 20 mins away from Sean's shop and he has be kind to offer me his help in building my MM. He is fortunate to have a very large area that he can use to build his MM.
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  #67  
Old Sat 17 November 2007, 08:59
onemonkeyhh
Just call me: houhoug
 
beijing
China
Good Good Study Day Day Up
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  #68  
Old Fri 23 November 2007, 15:33
Regnar
Just call me: Russell #69
 
Mobile, Alabama
United States of America
Hey Sean, you havent updated in awhile. Should be working on you vacuum table by now
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  #69  
Old Fri 23 November 2007, 16:05
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Russell,
Well, I was sidelined for the past 10 days with work, work and more work. Thus, today is my first day back at doing anything. I spent the day setting up the workbench to cut and grind rails. Additionally, I set up my backup drill press with my new tapping head. Now all those holes will go a little quicker! Thanks for checking in....Now I hope to be cutting by Christmas with the recent interruption. Sean
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  #70  
Old Fri 23 November 2007, 20:22
Regnar
Just call me: Russell #69
 
Mobile, Alabama
United States of America
Its always better to be work busy. If you own your own company that means more money coming in and if you are just a employee that means job security.

It also means that things get put to the back burner. I wish that I could offer to come up and help but I am in the same boat as you. With all the holidays the work load doesnt get lighter and if you want the time off you need to get the work done faster. Sorta a catch 22 becuase they espect the same pace after the holidays to.

I will keep watching and whatever you do dont rush. I always seem to put out poor quality when I get anxious or tired of a job.
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  #71  
Old Tue 11 December 2007, 14:33
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Blue Box is wired - weighs as much as the kitchen sink

The much anticipated kitchen table project is mostly complete.
I have to put the temporary plugs on the steppers and I am ready for a test run. Hopefully I will free up some time later this week to iron out all the bugs. All you electronic experts be nice! I haven't wired in a few years
BB_1.jpgBB_2.jpgBB_3.jpg
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  #72  
Old Tue 11 December 2007, 16:27
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
I like the blue.... looks good. I'll stop in next week.
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  #73  
Old Tue 11 December 2007, 19:16
Bill McGuire
Just call me: Bill
 
Weiser, Idaho
United States of America
Sean...
Looks GOOD!

BTW: Is that an aluminum plate in the back, or did it come with a steel one?
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  #74  
Old Tue 11 December 2007, 19:36
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Bill, I ordered it with a powder coated white steel back plane. It taps 6-32 very nicely! I personally like the steel back planes - they are cheaper and don't warp as much when you really start torquing heavy components down.
If your at all wondering what goes in the holes...
- left side under the twist-lock flanged recptacles is the 220/40A in.
- right side is the 9 core control cable to the table button boxes.
- PMDX cable is marked, but not drilled yet until I am really ready to commit on it's final location based on computer placement in the shop.
- the little black item on the right above the 4-pin XLR field is the 1A fuse for the Estop circuit. I wanted to be able to service this fuse without opening the cabinet.
- lights on front panel are "router/spindle" active & "dust collector" active.

Last edited by smreish; Tue 11 December 2007 at 19:38..
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  #75  
Old Tue 11 December 2007, 20:57
Doug_Ford
Just call me: Doug #3
 
Conway (Arkansas)
United States of America
Wow!! I'm not posting pictures of my junk anymore. I don't want my work compared with yours. It's gorgeous.
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  #76  
Old Tue 11 December 2007, 21:44
gmessler
Just call me: Greg #15
 
Chicago IL
United States of America
I'll side with you Doug. I think the standards have been set as high as the moon. Only select few will be able to reach. Bravo Sean!!

I have a question about the xlr connectors you used. What I recall from reading through the forum the connections from the Gecko's to the motors is very critical. Any interruption can cause a blown Gecko and possibly the motor as well. XLR connectors are not a very reliable connection as anybody in the sound industry knows they can on occasion cause noise. Additionally they are only designed to carry a very small voltage/current. I believe that the contacts are only rated to 1.5A/125vac. While I love the idea… do you think that using these will cause any issues?
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  #77  
Old Tue 11 December 2007, 21:48
BHawthorne
Just call me: Brad
 
Wichita, KS
United States of America
Nice wiring job. I hope to aspire to that look for my controller enclosure in a few weeks. It's a lot to figure out at the moment though.
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  #78  
Old Tue 11 December 2007, 23:00
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
That's a nice big blue box! (bł)

One smallish comment; the door interlock switch should be further away from the door hinge, if possible.

Very nice attention to detail - even have the ground wire across the hinge!
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  #79  
Old Tue 11 December 2007, 23:51
Alan_c
Just call me: Alan (#11)
 
Cape Town (Western Cape)
South Africa
Send a message via Skype™ to Alan_c
Nice going Sean. very neat.

I also share Gregs concern regarding the XLR connectors, they are not electrically reliable.
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  #80  
Old Wed 12 December 2007, 01:55
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
XLR connectors are apparently made by various producers these days - there is probably a quality difference from one manufacturer to the next. I am sure that high-quality XLR connectors must be available.
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  #81  
Old Wed 12 December 2007, 06:25
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Consolidated reply:
Alan, you concerns are well noted. After many years in the entertainment industry I have found no real cause for alarm on reliability. Actually, the amphenol modular shells have a tendency to crush or melt on me. The XLR, is a standard for me (and I have A lot of them I only use Swithcraft or Neutrik with the 14 GA pins and extra large solder cups. Typically for machine use I use 3 pin xlr for Estop loop, 4 pin for power, and 5 pin for drive control. This is an Audio/Visual standard that I adopted years ago. It helps to be standardized when your 4 pin xlr is missing and you can go the vendor next to you and borrow a cable that will help the Rolling Stones start their concert on time!

Gerald, I played with that darn rotary disconnect position for days! Your right...it works where it's at, but alignment was a pain in the *&^ to get perfect. Next round I am going to put it dead center and have it as the separator between DIN component fields. I was too far along in the wiring process to go back....as always, you miss nothing. And I like it that way

Greg, Well see if any issues arise. The make-and-break frequency of XLR reliability comes from the repeated use of the shell on a daily basis. I really plan on making the connection a couple of times a year - if that. Personally, I have had great success using them. I still have 30+ axis' of automation gear running on Broadway with the aforementioned 3,4,5 pin set up that I built in 1995....10+ years and no report of issues. Hopefully, I will have the same luck.

Last edited by smreish; Wed 12 December 2007 at 06:50..
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  #82  
Old Wed 12 December 2007, 08:27
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
From the switchcraft website www.switchcraft.com

for their xlr connectors

SPECIFICATIONS

ELECTRICAL

Contact Resistance: 50 milliohm maximum, per pole.

Current Rating:
3 pole - 15A, 4 pole - 10A,
5 and 6 pole - 7.5A,
7 pole - 5A @ 125VAC.

Insulation Resistance: 1,000 M(omega), minimum.

Dielectric Withstanding Voltage: 1,000 V (rms).

Capacitance: 2 pF between pins and 4 pF between
pins and shell, maximum (AA3M and AA3F).

MECHANICAL

Insertion/Withdrawal Forces: 7 pound maximum,
5 pound nominal, insertion; 7 pound maximum,
5 pound nominal, withdrawal.

Wire Size: #12 wire gauge solid; #14 wire gauge stranded (3 contact).
#14 wire gauge solid; #16 wire gauge stranded (4 contact).
#16 wire gauge solid; #18 wire gauge stranded (5 and 6 contact).
#18 wire gauge solid; #20 stranded (7 contact). (Q-G and QGP).


These look like they would work well. I have also used them in the past for professional audio solutions with good results. You do need a good quality one as Gerald suggests though. Switchcraft has always been good for me.
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  #83  
Old Wed 12 December 2007, 14:53
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Heath,
Thanks for the backup data. I was pulling the white paper from the website when you post popped up to verify what I already knew from experience.
To add to you data - The 4 pin XLR is 10A @ 60V. Plenty of headroom!
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  #84  
Old Wed 12 December 2007, 14:54
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Doug...please! Your wiring is spot on. Each baker in the kitchen uses different pans and pots, but the result is pretty much the same. Keep up the good work yourself. I hope your cutting wood before me! Ready - set - go!
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  #85  
Old Wed 12 December 2007, 16:07
Charlie
Just call me: Charlie
 
UT
United States of America
Had to say high to you stagehand superstars.
**waves**
10 years on broadway ?? I thought they closed "Cats" lol har har.

I.A. member.
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  #86  
Old Wed 12 December 2007, 17:24
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
Sean,
Yeah the 4 pin is in my post but I didnt see the 60V on the switchcraft website. I only saw reference to 125V AC. Do you have data that gives different voltages for the various pin counts? 60V might be a little low for guys using the higher voltage supplies.
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  #87  
Old Wed 12 December 2007, 20:30
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Direct from my Switchcraft database from my vendor. My rating at 60 Volts was the cross reference chart I was using for Nuetrik. The rating on the connectors I am actually using is for Switchcraft. There is a significant difference in the series and model number on XLR's. Some do have a lower ratings, but if you look, you can find the right ones at Mouser, Newark and other suppliers for reasonable pricing.

Note:
Q-G® CONNECTORS
Q-G®AUDIO CONNECTORS A, AA, AND QGP SERIES
AA Series Only

* Rugged 1-piece cable clamp to relieve pulling and twisting stresses on terminations.

* No Screws flex relief retention system.

* Integral bump shell grounding system.

SPECIFICATIONS

ELECTRICAL

Contact Resistance: 50 milliohm maximum, per pole.

Current Rating: 3 pole - 15A, 4 pole - 10A, 5 and 6 pole - 7.5A, 7 pole - 5A ALL RATED FOR 125VAC.

Insulation Resistance: 1,000 M(omega), minimum.

Dielectric Withstanding Voltage: 1,000 V (rms).

Capacitance: 2 pF between pins and 4 pF between pins and shell, maximum (AA3M and AA3F).

MECHANICAL

Insertion/Withdrawal Forces: 7 pound maximum,
5 pound nominal, insertion; 7 pound maximum, 5 pound nominal, withdrawal.

Wire Size: #12 wire gauge solid; #14 wire gauge stranded (3 contact). #14 wire gauge solid;
#16 wire gauge stranded (4 contact). #16 wire gauge solid; #18 wire gauge stranded (5 and 6 contact).
#18 wire gauge solid; #20 stranded (7 contact). (Q-G and QGP).
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  #88  
Old Thu 13 December 2007, 08:17
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
Sean,
Ok thats great, Looks like the same info I copy and pasted from switchcraft. Good to know that switchcraft connectors are good for 125Vac but others can be only good for 60V on multipin configurations. Will have to go with the quality vendors like switchcraft. 60V sounds marginal for some of our applications. No good for the 240V mains guys on the other side of the pond but good for the steppers.
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  #89  
Old Thu 13 December 2007, 10:50
gmessler
Just call me: Greg #15
 
Chicago IL
United States of America
I stand corrected.
Maybe I just needed to stir the pot a little bit.
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  #90  
Old Thu 13 December 2007, 12:26
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Heath,
My intention is XLR use only for steppers and estop/button use only. For big power I still like the NEMA Hubbell Twistlocks - like the flange receptacles I have in the bottom of my box. McMaster has a wonderful assortment of the Leviton and Eagle brand that are affordable.
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