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  #61  
Old Sun 08 April 2012, 07:00
Guillermo
Just call me: Guillermo
 
Puerto Ordaz
Venezuela
Hi Herb.

Try drilling at slower RPM . About 60 rpm.
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  #62  
Old Sun 08 April 2012, 13:21
JasonC
Just call me: Jason
 
Soldotna,AK
United States of America
And lube the bit while drilling to keep the heat down.
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  #63  
Old Tue 10 April 2012, 17:44
Red_boards
Just call me: Red #91
 
Melbourne
Australia
I only used one set of drill bits in my build. None bent or snapped. Lots of cutting oil. Frequent sharpening (I use a Drill Doctor - a worth while investment that's paid for itself and given me a new "skill"). A drill press is key so the pressure is directly down. All my drilling was at 100rpm. Probably slow for some people, but I did get nice curls coming off the bit.
Here's a post that helped me http://w3.uwyo.edu/~metal/drilling.html

Last edited by Red_boards; Tue 10 April 2012 at 17:47..
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  #64  
Old Tue 10 April 2012, 18:30
WTI
Just call me: James
 
Detroit (Michigan)
United States of America
Drill Doctor rules, and I never see anyone else talk about it.

Buy the few bits you are going to use a lot in Cobalt.

They last 6-8 times longer than normal, and when you resharpen them, the cobalt is not ground away.
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  #65  
Old Tue 10 April 2012, 21:09
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
I have one!!! 750X rules !!! Use it all the time.

Made by Darex - Drill Doctor is there domestic brand. Real toyz here:

http://www.darex.com/
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  #66  
Old Tue 10 April 2012, 22:20
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Nowadays, hand grinding drill bit is a lost skill.
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  #67  
Old Wed 11 April 2012, 14:07
Travish
Just call me: Travis #75
 
Wa
United States of America
I have the darex XT3000, but my preferred method is by hand and a drill gage. I like to simpleness looking at the drill doctors.
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  #68  
Old Sun 02 February 2014, 18:45
hflwaterski
Just call me: Herb #126
 
Genesee, WI
United States of America
Well I'm back at it and working on the record for longest build. I think I have it squarely in hand if I ever get there. I have a quick double check I want to throw past everyone. I'm getting back to the kitchen table project. I plan on running a 110V router initially and eventually a spindle with a VFD. I would also like to run a 110V dust collector and have it turn on automatically. I found the following solid state relay (CRYDOM CKRD2430) and just wanted to run it by everyone before I ordered two of them. One for the router and one for the dust collector.

http://www.crydom.com/en/products/catalog/c_kr24.pdf

Another follow-up question. If I eventually go to a VFD with a spindle, should I consider wiring up the panel with 220 volts or leave it at 110 volts as I have it now?
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  #69  
Old Mon 03 February 2014, 02:58
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
I'd run 220 in anyway, gives you the spindle option and its just one more wire in and a few minor differences in contactor, etc. I asked the very same question about setting up the dust collector to turn on automatically, it was suggested by several not to and just do it manually, but to each his own.
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  #70  
Old Mon 03 February 2014, 06:19
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
I personally prefer to turn on the dust collection manually.
I have found, that I always had at least a few cutting operations that dust collection hurt the process, than helped it.

Good luck with your choices.
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  #71  
Old Wed 05 February 2014, 12:41
hflwaterski
Just call me: Herb #126
 
Genesee, WI
United States of America
Kitchen Table Project

Updating you quickly during my work lunch. The heat sink is mounted with all the tapped holes ready for mounting the Geckos (will put in temporarily and wait until the end for the heat sink compound), the BOB stand-offs are in, and expecting the SSRs today or tomorrow. I hate parting with the money but love having gifts at my door when I get home from work. Tonight's short list, mounting the control panel vent, mounting the muffin fan, prepping and cutting wire to connect the Geckos to the BOB.

I'm doing some last minute calculations and just want to run it by the electronic experts...which I am definitely not.

Using the following:
PS5N30R5R12
Gecko G203Vs
PK296A2A-SG2.7 Unipolar (half coil) equating to 3A/Phase

47 x 3 / (7 - 3) = 35.25

I need (4) 35K resistors. Do I have that correct?

By the way, I upgraded to a larger panel. One of the other forum members graciously traded me for my smaller panel so I had to do some rework. Please disregard the earlier photos of the control panel.

Last edited by hflwaterski; Wed 05 February 2014 at 12:45..
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  #72  
Old Fri 07 February 2014, 13:16
hflwaterski
Just call me: Herb #126
 
Genesee, WI
United States of America
They only had 33K resistors at Radio Shack. Will I have any problems using those as opposed to the 35K resistors?
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  #73  
Old Fri 07 February 2014, 21:36
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
Those will be fine!
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  #74  
Old Sat 08 February 2014, 21:45
hflwaterski
Just call me: Herb #126
 
Genesee, WI
United States of America
Well, it's a major milestone for me. I was able to get everything talking to each other. Very exciting since I'm not an electronics wizard like some of you out there in MechMate Land. I'm looking forward to finishing up the rest of the panel but it was nice to take time out to get things moving for the first time.

http://youtu.be/b3qS8uHoFpA
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  #75  
Old Sun 09 February 2014, 04:30
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
Excellent, that's a big step. Keep on a roll.
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  #76  
Old Wed 12 February 2014, 07:30
hflwaterski
Just call me: Herb #126
 
Genesee, WI
United States of America
On Its Feet!

The table is finally on its feet. I was able to squeeze a little work in on the table and control panel.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg MMControlPanelButtons.jpg (40.5 KB, 815 views)
File Type: jpg MMUprightTable.jpg (57.5 KB, 817 views)
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  #77  
Old Sun 16 February 2014, 20:06
hflwaterski
Just call me: Herb #126
 
Genesee, WI
United States of America
Started the dreaded rail grinding. Won't get much time with it during the week but at least it's started.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg GrindingRails.jpg (98.9 KB, 758 views)
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  #78  
Old Sun 16 March 2014, 19:42
hflwaterski
Just call me: Herb #126
 
Genesee, WI
United States of America
Just wanted to update everyone on my status and pass along my solution to the cross angle brace. Don't look too closely at my Frankenstein welds because it was definitely a challenge for me to figure out the angles. I used the holes at the bottom of the channel that will be used for drilling out the support board. I simply made a bracket that spanned two holes on the channel and then welded the cross angle brace to the single cross bearer on the bottom. I still have the other side to do but I wanted to make sure it was going to work out.

All of the grinding is finished but I haven't drilled the holes out for either the table or the gantry. I will tackle that after I finish the other cross angle brace.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 2014-03-16 20.04.31.jpg (28.9 KB, 680 views)
File Type: jpg 2014-03-16 20.05.00.jpg (32.1 KB, 680 views)
File Type: jpg 2014-03-16 20.05.10.jpg (30.7 KB, 680 views)
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  #79  
Old Mon 31 March 2014, 10:37
hflwaterski
Just call me: Herb #126
 
Genesee, WI
United States of America
Wiring and Paint

I figured it's time for an update. I was able to get quite a bit done over the past couple weeks. I'm happy to say that there are only very minor items left on the build checklist excluding wiring. I made a few minor mistakes along the way but nothing that should impair the operation of the machine.

I ended up with a broken tap (see photo) in one of the main beam holes but other than that, it's ready for wiring and paint. So question to the group. Would you stop now and paint the whole thing first before wiring or would you finish mocking it up in case there are additional brackets to add, etc? I was thinking I would do a test run with it before paint due to the lack of warm weather here. I probably won't see temps appropriate for paint for another 3-6 weeks anyway. Suggestions?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 2014-03-30 19.43.18.jpg (46.9 KB, 604 views)
File Type: jpg 2014-03-30 19.43.33.jpg (50.5 KB, 605 views)
File Type: jpg 2014-03-30 19.44.16.jpg (43.8 KB, 608 views)
File Type: jpg 2014-03-30 19.48.56.jpg (53.1 KB, 607 views)
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  #80  
Old Mon 31 March 2014, 10:45
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
Some don't even paint it for awhile, personally, cold weather or not I'd paint it first. Adding things to it later may require touch up, that's about all. If you don't paint it now you may never paint it.
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  #81  
Old Mon 31 March 2014, 12:53
darren salyer
Just call me: Darren #101
 
Wentzville mo
United States of America
Truer words were never spoken, Tom.
Had I not painted mine before completion, I doubt it would be now.
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  #82  
Old Tue 01 April 2014, 00:12
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Paint it 1st. worry about touch up latter.
IMHO, at least prime the metal.
Its like cleaning up the machine before you go to installing the smaller bits.
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  #83  
Old Wed 17 June 2015, 21:49
hflwaterski
Just call me: Herb #126
 
Genesee, WI
United States of America
After taking the advice of others, I'm finally applying paint. I think I would never take it apart once it was together and running. I'll shoot some pics after I get a little further.
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  #84  
Old Thu 18 June 2015, 02:49
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
Should we be looking for some wild color scheme or are you going with the standard MM blue?
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  #85  
Old Thu 18 June 2015, 05:44
lonestaral
Just call me: Al #114
 
Isarn
Thailand
Send a message via Skype™ to lonestaral
By 'Wld colour scheme' do you mean
Leopard spots or Tiger stripes
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  #86  
Old Thu 18 June 2015, 07:56
hflwaterski
Just call me: Herb #126
 
Genesee, WI
United States of America
Pretty standard: MechMate blue with black rails and trim pieces. Can't wait to get the sticker on!
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  #87  
Old Thu 18 June 2015, 10:13
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
Zebra strips of coarse
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  #88  
Old Sat 01 August 2015, 06:26
hflwaterski
Just call me: Herb #126
 
Genesee, WI
United States of America
Paint is finally on and only a couple small pieces to finish up. Final assembly can finally begin.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Painted1.jpg (67.5 KB, 461 views)
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  #89  
Old Sun 02 August 2015, 05:44
jhiggins7
Just call me: John #26
 
Hebron, Ohio
United States of America
Looking good Herb.
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  #90  
Old Sat 24 October 2015, 21:03
hflwaterski
Just call me: Herb #126
 
Genesee, WI
United States of America
At long last, there is very little left to paint and I have things ready to assemble.
Attached Images
File Type: jpeg Painted Table.jpeg (71.3 KB, 359 views)
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