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  #31  
Old Tue 14 February 2012, 10:53
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
So how did you handle the skate overrun? Did you add extra metal to the ends?
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  #32  
Old Tue 14 February 2012, 13:02
hflwaterski
Just call me: Herb #126
 
Genesee, WI
United States of America
I bought a plate that was 36" long and cut it down when the grinding was complete. I had to pay a little more to have less of a hassle with a longer piece. I wasn't about to put a short piece through my 5hp unisaw with a sanding disk attached.
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  #33  
Old Tue 21 February 2012, 14:21
hflwaterski
Just call me: Herb #126
 
Genesee, WI
United States of America
Some progress over the weekend. I was able to get the spider plate all welded up and I drilled for the gas spring. I had a couple holes to rework on the slide tube but I'm getting very close to finishing up the entire z-slide assembly. The mild whether has really helped out my efforts here in the midwest.

Spider1.jpgSpider2.jpg
Spider3.jpg
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  #34  
Old Wed 29 February 2012, 16:09
hflwaterski
Just call me: Herb #126
 
Genesee, WI
United States of America
I have 1 side nearly done. I have the diagonal braces to weld in but going well overall. I had to persuade the main horizontal pipe to become straight again. I guess that's the advantage of only doing a little bit at a time. I know better now to only run small beads at a time on side 2 to decrease heat and distortion. Overall I'm fairly happy with the welds. That was my first time welding pipe after using the tube notcher. I bought it a long time ago in anticipation of this part of the Mechmate and a couple other projects.

Side1.jpgSide1Welds.jpg

Last edited by hflwaterski; Wed 29 February 2012 at 16:24..
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  #35  
Old Wed 29 February 2012, 16:47
TechGladiator
Just call me: Miguel #94
 
Randolph, NJ
United States of America
Herb

That is some nice welding!!..And this is your "FIRST TIME"? impressive..

Is that a Rigid metal saw I see on the table? If so, how do you like it?
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  #36  
Old Wed 29 February 2012, 20:49
hflwaterski
Just call me: Herb #126
 
Genesee, WI
United States of America
Thanks Miguel. I have welded square tubing and lots of steel bar, flat and channel but no round tube that I can remember. The tube notcher does make it go much better I'm sure. Regarding the Rigid, I would say that it is a bit underpowered but it's also the only one I've ever owned or used so I don't have a good frame of reference. I don't know if they all bog down like this one does but it seems to really strain when I put anything substantial through it. It is slightly out of square with the blade but not enough to worry about. Other than that, I guess it's been fine for me. It managed to cut everything I've needed so far.

Last edited by hflwaterski; Wed 29 February 2012 at 20:55..
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  #37  
Old Thu 01 March 2012, 07:40
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
I have a Dewalt Chop saw that works well. But if really straight cutting is the order of the day, they make better cutting saws. You want one that uses a blade and not an abasive wheel.

Abrasive Example:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...624&ci_gpa=pla

Blade Examples:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/14-D...etal-Saw/G0692

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Slow...-Cut-Saw/G0665
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  #38  
Old Thu 01 March 2012, 12:25
TechGladiator
Just call me: Miguel #94
 
Randolph, NJ
United States of America
Thanks Mike. I was looking at the DeWalt one at HD and it looked like for the amount of steel cutting that I plan on doing is going to be OK.. The reason why I asked Herb about the Rigid is because my local HD carries both DeWalt and Rigid. With Rigid being about $40 cheaper.
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  #39  
Old Sun 04 March 2012, 17:29
revved_up
Just call me: Craig
 
Hartland, MI
United States of America
Hard to go wrong with the Ridgid tools most all the new tools have unbeatable warrantys. I have lots of Ridgid tools and have never been let down by them. Except my circular saw, my son in law claims that the cord was faulty because it wouldnt get out of the way of the cut.
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  #40  
Old Mon 05 March 2012, 20:06
TechGladiator
Just call me: Miguel #94
 
Randolph, NJ
United States of America
@Craig: HAHA! Nice, I am sure you let your son in law borrow your tools all the time after that incident..

I just purchased the Ridgid 14" today and although I only cut a few pieces of 3x3 1/8" steel tubing it looks like it works great. I will be cutting some angles tomorrow so we will see how that goes.

I do have a Ridgid drill press and works great..
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  #41  
Old Tue 06 March 2012, 14:03
Travish
Just call me: Travis #75
 
Wa
United States of America
If I was to do it all over again I would go with the Grizzly bladed style over the abrasive cut off saw anyday.
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  #42  
Old Tue 06 March 2012, 17:26
TechGladiator
Just call me: Miguel #94
 
Randolph, NJ
United States of America
@Travis; I have seen both machines cut and I could agree with you, I think for me however because I dot plan on cutting that much steel that paying 2.5 times the price for an blade vs abrasive was not justified. IF I needed to cut a lot of steel or build another MM I would certainly do it. This next project I am working on only requires about a dozen cuts to 3x3" (.125") square tubing.
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  #43  
Old Sun 11 March 2012, 20:32
hflwaterski
Just call me: Herb #126
 
Genesee, WI
United States of America
Here are a few shots from the shop today. I took a break from welding and machining while I recovered from being sick for a spell. One side is done minus the holes for the cross members and top rails. I hope to start on the other side shortly. I've been rearranging the shop this weekend so that I can start to assemble it pretty much in place.

Shop1.jpgShop2.jpg
Shop3.jpg
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  #44  
Old Tue 13 March 2012, 20:48
TechGladiator
Just call me: Miguel #94
 
Randolph, NJ
United States of America
Coming along nice Herb.. Good Job.. You will be making dust before you know it.
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  #45  
Old Tue 13 March 2012, 21:17
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
I want to know how you guys keep your shops so neat and purdy !!!
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  #46  
Old Tue 13 March 2012, 21:29
TechGladiator
Just call me: Miguel #94
 
Randolph, NJ
United States of America
@Mike, thats because they don't have a MM yet making dust
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  #47  
Old Tue 13 March 2012, 23:07
Kobus_Joubert
Just call me: Kobus #6
 
Dalview
South Africa
Send a message via Yahoo to Kobus_Joubert Send a message via Skype™ to Kobus_Joubert
Maybe Hennie with (on) his broom visits every night.
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  #48  
Old Tue 13 March 2012, 23:27
jessyjames
Just call me: James
 
Reno, Nevada
United States of America
When my shop is not dirty thats when I know Im not making much money
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  #49  
Old Sat 31 March 2012, 17:04
Metalsmith
Just call me: Metalsmith
 
Jacksonville, Fl
United States of America
Why ... ?

does every one making steel machines do solid welds....I have been a structural welder for 45 years and never do we weld solid...to much waste. Not even bulldozers are welded solid... ; ) Nothing could convince me it will hold better. Also for those that want nice cuts, you can buy 40, 60 and 100 tooth cold cut blades for chop saws....I will try to post a link...
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  #50  
Old Sat 31 March 2012, 20:24
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Well I think we weld solid becuase we figure that if we get half of it to hold we did good ..... !!!
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  #51  
Old Sun 01 April 2012, 11:07
Metalsmith
Just call me: Metalsmith
 
Jacksonville, Fl
United States of America
.... I make a lot of money because I charge $50 an hr and it hardly ever takes me more that an hour to weld up anything....Say on a leg ...tack each corner and 1 " down each side then weld around each corner in 1/2 " welds.....never top or bottom or it will pull on the top frame piece....all ways let it normalize at air temp...use jigs when possible and use a big rosebud tip to normalize joints that have pulled and they will usually go back to position.
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  #52  
Old Sun 01 April 2012, 21:57
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Great to know we have a professional welder among us.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Metalsmith View Post
........ use a big rosebud tip to normalize joints that have pulled and they will usually go back to position.

Would you mind elaborate on the procedure. If all possible a tutorial is most appriciated. I'm about to make a 28ft square hollow section beam from a 20ft & 8 ft 2"x3" square hollow section. Really don't wiant to end up with a crocket & twisted beam.
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  #53  
Old Mon 02 April 2012, 10:33
Metalsmith
Just call me: Metalsmith
 
Jacksonville, Fl
United States of America
Quote:
Originally Posted by KenC View Post
Great to know we have a professional welder among us.

Would you mind elaborate on the procedure. If all possible a tutorial is most appriciated. I'm about to make a 28ft square hollow section beam from a 20ft & 8 ft 2"x3" square hollow section. Really don't wiant to end up with a crocket & twisted beam.
You need a table and supports for the section that overhang the ends....clamp a section of 2-2.5 " angle, at least 4 ft to the table and center it ....use a string and push or pul it till it is perfectly straight. Prep you tube by grinding your ends to be joined, to a 45 degree bevel, leaving an edge where they touch, the thickness of the wire or rod you are using to weld with...leave a gap of the same thinkness...this will insure pentatration.... i like to do big spot welds one over lapping the other !
Clamp to the table against the angle and place another piece of angle on the other side ....use at least 4 clamps ...one on each side of the break and one on each end. if you can, clamp the second angle to the table too !
Make sure the weld method can do the job..... test with scrap plate ! Tack the tube on all 4 corners, turn the tube to get to bottom....grind tacks if they are not flush..... if your machine is having trouble doing the weld in one pass , heat tube, with torch and make multiple pases. , but do one side at a time...make a root pass and clean all welds, then make the next series, till the groove is filled slightly above surface , then grind for finish.
If you take your time , you can have a tube, that when painted no one can tell were it is joined! The string is your best friend for straightness.....you can use a torch and heat the high sides and rapid cool to straighten ....only practice will make you good at it ....after 45 years , I almost got it down ... ; ))))
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  #54  
Old Mon 02 April 2012, 22:58
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Metalsmith,
Thanks for the run through. Clears some doubts as I read.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Metalsmith View Post
i like to do big spot welds one over lapping the other !
Like is in particular, this method never sprung in my mind ever. Will definately have a go.

Another question.
I do worry when weld solid on one side at a time, the heat will pull the tubes. Do you mean that the tack will hold them from pulling? or I'm am just over worrying?
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  #55  
Old Tue 03 April 2012, 12:07
Metalsmith
Just call me: Metalsmith
 
Jacksonville, Fl
United States of America
Ken

The spot welds need to be hot enough to melt into both parts .... if the heta is not high enough .... holding the trigger (mig) will only make it worse..... What method (Type of machine) do you use /
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  #56  
Old Tue 03 April 2012, 21:46
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Lately, I bought an economical Chinese MIG, The manufacturer's manual & specs are useless, so I measured the max. Voltage range to be about 14~32V. Max current is about 200~220Amp lowest about 80~100Amp.
So far, I had success welding upto 1/4" (6mm) which is thickest I need to weld to ate. using 003" (0.8mm) wire with the voltage & wire speed dial set about the middle of the full range. I am using pure CO2 gas for now.

Before the MIG, I use my portable 160A inverter stick welder.
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  #57  
Old Wed 04 April 2012, 06:50
Metalsmith
Just call me: Metalsmith
 
Jacksonville, Fl
United States of America
Ken

Use the CO2, cheapest and gives a hotter burn.... the spot should lay down flat if you have the right heat & feed....should sound like frying bacon(Meat)...we have cowboyed the thread long enough, send me questions in PM.... ; )) Thanks

Last edited by Metalsmith; Wed 04 April 2012 at 06:51.. Reason: error
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  #58  
Old Wed 04 April 2012, 06:53
Metalsmith
Just call me: Metalsmith
 
Jacksonville, Fl
United States of America
Herb

Any updates ..... ?
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  #59  
Old Thu 05 April 2012, 06:32
hflwaterski
Just call me: Herb #126
 
Genesee, WI
United States of America
Both sides are welded up and the feet are installed. The cross members should be done soon and then I can begin to bolt them on to the sides. I'll take some photos when the beams have all been drilled and the cross members are bolted on. I've been dreading grinding the rails but that's next for me after the cross members.
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  #60  
Old Sat 07 April 2012, 22:01
hflwaterski
Just call me: Herb #126
 
Genesee, WI
United States of America
A little progress. I am 1 cross member short so it'll have to wait a bit more. I also had to stop because I bent the only bit I had in that size. How many bits did you all go through on your projects? This will be the 3rd in that size. Anyway, three more cross members to drill and attach and then that'll wrap up the majority of the table. Only minor fabrication left on the table and then onto the rail grinding.

Table2.jpgTable3.jpg
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