#121
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Thanks Wayne, Looking forward to more info on your spindle results.
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#122
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Prototype 3ph spindle is complete
I finished my prototype 3ph spindle. Here you see I have it mounted on my little cnc for the first test run.
Currently uploading a Youtube video.....I will post the link once it is complete. If this all works out well, I plan to purchase a Sherline spindle built for ER16 collets. This will allow me to use bits up to 3/16" dia. |
#123
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#124
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Isn’t it beautifully what a can achieve with proper mindset!!
Nice going Wayne, Robert |
#125
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Awesome!
What's your target budget, do you think cooling will be adequate, and do you anticipate the ability to control speed through g-code? |
#126
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Jeff,
The items required to build this spindle cost about $400. Cheaper motors and controllers exist, but I prefer to spend a little extra and be sure of the quality. The finished project will use an industral Sherline spindle....they are good for 10,000 rpm continous. www.sherlineipd.com/spindles.htm The motor and controller will require cooling, a simple muffin fan will do the trick. I believe speed control through Mach3 is possible, but will require PWM frequency conversion. Mach3 produces a base PWM freq of about 5-10hz. a typical RC speed controller operates with a 10x higher base freq (50hz). I am sure a simple microcontroller w/some code will solve the problem....but like everything else it takes a little time and thought to get it to work. For now, I will use a little timer circuit to drive the speed controller...simple and cheap |
#127
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Wayne,
Wow that looks impressive, have any video of it cutting stuff yet? |
#128
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No cutting video yet....need to mount it to the Mechmate first.
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#129
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ATV licence plate - billet aluminum
My brother and I made this plate for his ATV. (shown in previous pictures)
We took a 3/8" aluminum plate, powdercoated it red, then machine the plate using a Onsrud O-flute bit. The engraving was accomplished with a 45deg carbide V-bit. The acrylic plate was our prototype, we cut it to verify our machine file. |
#130
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Looks good. I have to ask a question with the risk of sounding stupid. How do you get the square inside edges on the lettering using a v-bit?
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#131
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You raise the tip of the bit right up to the surface so that it gives fine detail.
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#132
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Wayne,
Very nice. Great job.... |
#133
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Not trying to sound like a wise but , but more specifically the cam software produces G-code that raises the V bit as it moves the X & Y axis to produce the square corners, after all it's a cnc machine capable of .001" moves. Gerald your answer may leave the impression that one would do it manually.
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#134
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#136
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Quote:
I made a drilling spindle for a non MM related machine. Spindle is based on a straight shank ER-16 collet holder with outside diameter of 20mm (vertex brand) Since spindle was used for drilling I used regular quality bearings (FAG brand) and used a metabo grinder as the motor. If the spindle were to be used with a router, the bearings should be angular, I found the german branch of ebay have a whole section for spindle bearings: Ebay.de Spindle bearings Category You can get a couple of angular bearings, quality brand at around $100 Your motor solution looks far better and with the proper design it could be made to fit inside the spindle casing. Here are some photos, I'll ask some questions below them: My questions: 1) Can you post some motor models that would work? lets say for a 3hp spindle 2) Can this motor speed be controlled by mach3? 3) if not how do you set speed? Servotester? 4) does this motor require forced ventilation? Thanks! Pablo |
#137
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Sorry for the late reply.... have not looked at this link for awhile. Just going to post when I saw your questions.
1) Can you post some motor models that would work? lets say for a 3hp spindle. Most any 2000 watt, rc motor should work. 2) Can this motor speed be controlled by mach3?Not easily, the PWM outout of Mach3 is a lower freq than required by the rc speed controllers available. It's possible to develop a interface using a microcontroller that would take the output of Mach3 and convert it to a rc compatible signal. 3) if not how do you set speed? Servotester?My proto uses a rc receiver, but a servo tester could be used. 4) does this motor require forced ventilation? yes, a fan will be required. Project update. I was not happy with the power output of the motor spindle combo....thought it would be more powerful at the low end. I will probably just brakedown a purchase a factory spindle |
#138
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White oak floor vents
As part of our wood flooring installation project....I made some floor vents that match our floor. We looked at purchasing "factory" made units, but quickly found that store bought vents are very cheaply made and do not come in white oak.
The wood used for the vents is the actual flooring, so when sanded, they should not be noticable or basically disappear |
#139
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I also posted a couple of YouTube videos of the vents being cut.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p43H4eugKlU |
#140
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Some new stuff
Haven't posted for awhile....so I thought I would share some of the new Mechmate stuff I have been working on.
First we finished our floor project. Although not really a Mechmate project.....I did use the machine to cut the floor vents We are real please with the floor, turned our better than we expected. Second, I gave up on my "homemade spindle" project and broken down and purchased a Colombo RV90. The difference between the router and spindle is dramatic....much less noise and more cutting power. It's been a great addition to my MechMate. I purchased the spindle and controller from Ebay, was a little nervous, but the seller offer full money back if not satisfied. Turns out the spindle and controller function perfectly....and I saved a ton of dough Third, I have a new Youtube video showing the spindle cutting some 1/2" polypropylene plastic at 100"/min. The spindle is running at 10K rpms, the cutter is a 1/4" Onsrud (63-725) which is designed for soft plastics. Cut's like butter http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y3hdE17KwHI Well that's it for now Wayne |
#141
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Wayne,
That floor looks awesome. Did you do the inlay work on the mechmate? Can you post a closeup of the inlay work? |
#142
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Wayne,
You just need a hoop to go along with the shinney new floor. Nice job on the floor and inlay. How many coats of poly did you put down? |
#143
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Heath - I did not make the inlay, purchased it from a guy who makes them in Wyoming. Thought about making one (The Mechmate is certainly capable) but really could not take on any more projects this summer. I will take a close up and post it....give me a day or so to get it done.
Nils - Appreciate the comment, we do like the way the floor came out. The (super) shinney picture was taken when the poly was still wet.....it is actually a semi-gloss finish. The 2nd picture better represents the look when dry. There are 3 coats of poly on the floor, should be enough to protect the it from shoes, the dog, or a little sliding of furniture. |
#144
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Wayne
I did my floors with semi-gloss and then the next time I did them with gloss and I will always use gloss from now on. I agree about the three coats. It gives the best protection. |
#145
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Dust collector for my MechMate
We built the cyclone part of a dust collection system this weekend. The cyclone was built from Bill Pentz plans (available from his website)
Checkout the dust managment forum for more photo's. |
#146
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Nice sheet metal work! Should be up in no time!
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#147
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Thanks Ken.
Been awhile since we made anything from sheet metal, so our skills were a little rusty. So you know.....we used paint to hide all the mistakes |
#148
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Wayne,
Dont feel so bad, your rusty skills are better than my best. Let us know when you have it all running. |
#149
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Tool cabinet for my Mechmate.
Seems I am always running to the work bench looking for a pencil, collet wrench, router bit, etc.... So I decided I would build a little cabinet to store all the stuff I need when using my Mechmate.
The cabinet is made from .5" MDF, the drawers are white oak. The cabinet was made entirely with the MechMate, the drawers were made using conventional tools (tablesaw, plane, shaper, etc..). This was designed to fit flush with the first cross member so you don't hit your legs when working in the front of the machine. This location is very accessable when changing bits or when setting up a job. |
#150
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Pictures of the completed cabinet.
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