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  #61  
Old Sun 08 February 2009, 09:07
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
For a light final grinding pass, the disk wear is practically zero. That applies to all grinding operations, eg. surface grinders, knife grinders, cylindrical grinders, etc.
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  #62  
Old Thu 02 April 2009, 05:19
MattyZee
Just call me: Matt
 
Adelaide
Australia
remove gearbox screws?

I've been reading all the posts on the angle grinding as thats the bit thats got me most worried about starting my build. I grabbed my dads grinder to see if it will fit on the skate. It looks like it wont. Its an old Makita...
AngleGrinder.jpg

I thought the skate attached to the equivalent of the 3 screws that held on the safety guard. So then i went down to the local hardware store here and had a look at a few there.
But then i re-read this:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerald D View Post
Clamping the grinder by only using its handle screw holes would be a non-starter for me - the only rigid place to hold a baby grinder would be directly behind the disk onto the gearbox.
So do I understand now the skate attaches to the 4 screws that hold the shaft bearing? So do you remove these screws then attach the skate with longer screws? Is there any issue comprimising the grinder doing this? (will it void my warranty if i buy a new one?)
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  #63  
Old Thu 02 April 2009, 05:53
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
So do I understand now the skate attaches to the 4 screws that hold the shaft bearing? Yes

So do you remove these screws then attach the skate with longer screws? Yes

Is there any issue comprimising the grinder doing this? (will it void my warranty if i buy a new one?) Your warranty will be voided if they find out that you have removed the screws. It is not as if you are doing open-heart surgery to the grinder, but you certainly would be using the grinder in a manner it was not designed for.
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  #64  
Old Thu 02 April 2009, 12:38
vishnu
Just call me: vishnu
 
Coimbatore(TN)
India
Matt just go on, I had to do it in the same manner. Also i was unable to fix my grinder to the small fixing dia on the original skate plate so i had to bore them and cut the end to enable my grinder to sit. I did a small ring washer with a PCD holes of the grinder and screwed them. No problem till the end of the grinding. Lot of R&D is not required just keep going you will learn in a few minutes. Love to see you grinding soon
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  #65  
Old Sat 06 June 2009, 10:08
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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I need someone to look at this drawing to see if my modifications will work or interfere with the workings of the skate. My idea is to use 2 bearings like Joe is shipping with the skate (now we need 10 instead of 8). Cut a length of 12mm rod 1" long insert it through the bearing, then spot weld the ends of the rod to the top of the plate. This will leave 1/16" of bearing protruding under the plate to ride the rail. Now all adjustments will need to be made by adjusting the upper plate in and out on the lower plate.
I also have some ideas about fine adjusting the plate, but I would like to know first if the modifications will even work.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg M610116PB skate JRH.jpg (14.9 KB, 2268 views)
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  #66  
Old Mon 08 June 2009, 02:15
Lex
Just call me: Johan #56
 
Empangeni KwaZuluNatal
South Africa
I haven't decided yet on how I am going to grind my rails. With the skate or other guiding method.
I think this idea of yours will work. It will eliminating the damage to the riding bolt.
What did you had in mind for adjusting the height, J.R.?
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  #67  
Old Wed 10 June 2009, 18:10
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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Johan it will be easy, we will just adjust the top plate more toward the center.
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  #68  
Old Sun 21 June 2009, 09:15
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
Send a message via Skype™ to J.R. Hatcher
I need help identifying the purpose of the 6 holes circled. Thanks
Attached Images
File Type: jpg M610116PB skate5 JRH.jpg (38.2 KB, 2069 views)
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  #69  
Old Sun 21 June 2009, 09:52
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
If you look at Sean's pics in earlier posts in this thread, you will see a pair of "all-thread" rods lying at 45 degrees to the base of the skate. They are for fine tuning the 45 degree angle when bevel grinding.

The remaining pair of holes (out of the 6 marked above) are a place to screw on handles.
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  #70  
Old Sun 21 June 2009, 13:13
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
link for the skate pictures and details.
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  #71  
Old Mon 22 June 2009, 00:24
Lex
Just call me: Johan #56
 
Empangeni KwaZuluNatal
South Africa
Hi JR,
My boss left me alone last week so that I could enjoy my coffee during my lunch times. I was playing a bit with your new idea for the skate. Hope it it is ok?

AssyJigOnRail1.jpg

AssyJigOnRail2.jpg

AssyJigOnRail3.jpg

AssyJigOnRail4.jpg

AssyJigOnRail5.jpg

The existing plates are shown as per dxfs and I only removed the piece for the existing bolt - height adjustment.
It seems that the best position for the new bearing shaft center could be at the center of the bottom plate.
Only one bolt is shown in position for the bolting the two plates.
The two plates might have to be altered to allow for more adjustment towards the centre.
What do you think?
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  #72  
Old Mon 22 June 2009, 00:55
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
We could put a notch into the skate ends to accommodate the roller bearings. . . . . or the bolt, that is relatively simple and doesn't remove any functionality we have now.

However, that aspect of the skate (sliding bolt head vs roller) is not the highest concern for me. I would rather make a mod that stops the glazing of the face of the grind disk, ie. to make the grinder "attack" the rail at a more aggressive angle. This could involve swivelling the upper plate instead of a straight left to right adjustment.

A snag with the left/right/swivel adjustment is to get a fine control (that we have with the rubbing bolt head now)
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  #73  
Old Mon 22 June 2009, 01:02
Alan_c
Just call me: Alan (#11)
 
Cape Town (Western Cape)
South Africa
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Johan, that looks good, only one issue - on image 3 I see the lower bearing sets are set at different heights, this will cause problems when turning the skate around to do the inside, its best to have both sides set to the same height. I know that as you drew it would give the best support but everytime you turn around you would have to change bearing positions.

When grinding the bevel, you do one side, turn the skate around and do the other side, when it moves up and down without making anymore sparks, the skate is adjusted for more "bite" then the process repeated again and again and again...etc
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  #74  
Old Mon 22 June 2009, 01:31
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
The skate's "grip" or "pinch" on the vertical part of the rail will also be firmer if the roller pairs are opposite each other. ie. set at the same height.
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  #75  
Old Mon 22 June 2009, 01:42
Lex
Just call me: Johan #56
 
Empangeni KwaZuluNatal
South Africa
Thanks Gerald and Alan. That make sense.
I received a quote for R45 per bearing. To buy the 8 to 10 bearings for grinding only seems to be expensive. I do not have a long flat surface on the other hand to grind like Hennie did his.
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  #76  
Old Mon 22 June 2009, 05:21
Alan_c
Just call me: Alan (#11)
 
Cape Town (Western Cape)
South Africa
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Your'e being ripped off, those bearings should cost no more than R8.00 - R10.00 each, find another supplier (Bearing Man or Bearing Distributors are two I can think of)
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  #77  
Old Mon 22 June 2009, 05:24
Lex
Just call me: Johan #56
 
Empangeni KwaZuluNatal
South Africa
Thanks Alan. I will phone around.
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  #78  
Old Mon 22 June 2009, 07:33
Lex
Just call me: Johan #56
 
Empangeni KwaZuluNatal
South Africa
Alan, some feed back on those bearings. One of the well known bearing manufacture - suppliers gave me a price of R11.55. Bearingman was the expensive one.
It is the old Zululand way of doing business again. If it is not a shelve item that someone use a lot then they charge 3 to 5 times the price.
The only time that I wish I lived in the city!
I was just lucky that the other supplier had some left over from a large order.
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  #79  
Old Mon 22 June 2009, 08:07
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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Johan I don't know how much trouble it is to redraw this thing (by the way it looks great) but here are some more mods. It is a DXF file so change the ext. from TXT back to DXF. Thanks
Attached Files
File Type: txt M610116PB skate5.2 JRH.txt (137.0 KB, 248 views)
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  #80  
Old Mon 22 June 2009, 23:53
Lex
Just call me: Johan #56
 
Empangeni KwaZuluNatal
South Africa
Not to much work JR. Geee did I say that! One will never hear words like that from a draughtsman! Please don't tell my boss!
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  #81  
Old Tue 23 June 2009, 04:48
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
Send a message via Skype™ to J.R. Hatcher
By the way, these last modifications are based on the ideas from the last few post by Johan and Gerald. I said it once and I'll say it again ...... "none of us is as smart as all of us" or something like that. You get my drift ... right. . Thanks
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  #82  
Old Tue 23 June 2009, 04:58
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
JR, my AutoCad refuses to open that. (after changing txt 2 dxf)
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  #83  
Old Tue 23 June 2009, 05:16
Lex
Just call me: Johan #56
 
Empangeni KwaZuluNatal
South Africa
It opened in mine Gerald. It might have been save in a newer version?
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  #84  
Old Tue 23 June 2009, 05:19
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Johan, can you mail me a dwg or dxf compatible to AutoCAD 2005?
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  #85  
Old Tue 23 June 2009, 06:14
Lex
Just call me: Johan #56
 
Empangeni KwaZuluNatal
South Africa
I only put some bolts in JR. I still have to tweak the roller heights and positions

AssySkate1.jpg
AssySkate2.jpg
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  #86  
Old Tue 23 June 2009, 06:20
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Thanks for trying Johan, but I still get this error message:
Unknown value "AC1021" encountered in drawing version.
Invalid or incomplete DXF input -- drawing discarded.
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  #87  
Old Tue 23 June 2009, 06:55
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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Good job! You nailed it. Thanks
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  #88  
Old Tue 23 June 2009, 07:22
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
JR,
Silly question but how are the rail rider bearing held in the skate? I dont see a way to get a bolt in there?
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  #89  
Old Tue 23 June 2009, 08:04
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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Tack welded. If you ever needed to modify the thing or change bearings, just cut the weld. What do you think ... keep it simple

Last edited by J.R. Hatcher; Tue 23 June 2009 at 08:09..
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  #90  
Old Tue 23 June 2009, 08:13
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
Send a message via Skype™ to J.R. Hatcher
I know ... I know ... keeping it simple was leaving it alone. I just couldn't do it. Sorry It's that type A personality.
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