#31
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Bit information
Where can I find information on bits as to when to to use up cut/ down cut, # flutes, spindle/IPM etc, etc. I know there has to be a lot to the science of the right cutting tool to use.
Also why don't spindle makers offer a quick change such as http://legacywoodworking.com/products.cfm?product=40 ? I have one on my PC and it makes bit changing very simple and fast. All it takes is a T handle wrench. |
#32
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All the answers that Gerald D has provided are correct. Sean
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#33
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Tool bits and speed data
MM forum.
I have purchase all my tooling bits from http://www.hartlauer-bits.com/ for years and they have 1) super customer service and help on the phone and 2) this really cool bit/speed/feed rate pdf with all their bits listed on it. I have attached the pdf or you can visit the website to D/L your own copy. I have it enlarged to 24 x 36" on the wall above my old CNC Multicam machine which I am replacing with a MechMate. HartlauerBitsList.pdf Sean |
#34
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Hello everyone.
Sorry it took me so long to respond the open questions. Gerald is correct...I just visually look at the cut and "listen " to the machine. Experience will begin to tell you when it's time to change a bit. The first sign in MDF is usually a discoloration in the cut - a kin to burning. Local sharpening services have really poor success with the bits. Also, the local sharpening service (I have tried 9 different vendors) not one of them sends the bits back to the OEM tolerances. a 13mm bit comes back at 12.7 or 12.9....a big deal when you building "tab a slot b" parts. I found it was cheaper just to purchase alot of the same bits in qty and get a discount. Have a great day. Sean |
#35
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If you find a good sharpening company, you can get the bits ground to a smaller dia, so your 13mm you could get all of them ground to 12.7000mm to let you have a known and repetitive size.
Dave |
#36
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Dave,
Sad to say, but I did try that with 2 of the locals. To my dismay, they often said..it depends on the daily setup of the machine....I can't guarantee a known value for each bit..."I just get it sharp" again. Tablesaw blades - no problem, Routerbits...not so easy. Plus, the cost of new bit vs. sharpened was only about 2 bucks. I know it sounds like a lot, but for ease of use...and bit life is longer. Just easier. Heck, for every bit change it takes about 10 minutes with zero, coffee and pp break. For what I am paying for labor - 2 bucks for longer cut life pays for itself in about 6 minutes! Sean |
#37
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I hear that !
I am lucky that I have found a couple guys who will grind the tools you need, to the specs you want. Unfortunately, they usually want 100 pieces to get a good price. Dave |
#38
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Source for Router Bits
It is early for me but I have time on my hands and would like to do some research on bits.
I would like to know what source you are using for your bits. Which bits are better for different materials. Such as Plywood, MDF, wood etc. Thanks |
#39
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Sailfl,
Here are a couple of suppliers. Each has literature and documentation. www.amanatool.com www.onsrud.com DonRoss |
#40
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Nils, your new thread is now joined with this one.
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#41
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Thanks Gerald. I did a search but did not find this thread.
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#42
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Extra long slot drill
I'd like to ask for a bit of help from the experts in regards to this extra long slot drill from Sutton tools, Australia.
I want to use it to cut a 96mm thick, glued slab of 3x 32mm MRMDF sheets. The part is not too big, it's roughly 1300x400x96, a perfect rectangle. The milling will consist of pockets, through holes and profiling. Do you guys think that this is a good tool for the job? I am planning on using the 12mm diameter one, it has a total length of 153mm. Any considerations will be appreciated:-) thanks, Francis Last edited by sprayhead; Fri 15 January 2010 at 01:05.. |
#43
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I would like to know which type of bits works the best for drilling.
I tried small diameter straight cutters(dia3) and also a panel pilot drill bit but it turns into a nice shade of black. My 6mm (1/4") collet doesn't want to clamp a 6mm drill bit and I can't buy a 6.3 or 6.5 of the shelve. The length might also be a problem because it is longer than the router bits, making bit changes a little akward. Any recommendations? |
#44
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Try the companies who supply cutting tools for the metal cutting guys on their milling machines. The thing to ask for is a "slot drill" in solid carbide, with 2 flutes. You can use them for drilling or normal sideways CNC routing.
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#45
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Thanks Gerald. I will ask for a 1/4" instead of a 6mm. The collet should clamp that more effectively.
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#46
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Johan, the most common router collet sold here in SA is the 1/4" size. But we have been able to get 6mm (and sometimes also 8mm) collets from the suppliers of the routers (or die grinder). I agree with you, a 1/4'" collet cannot be forced to clamp a 6mm bit, but a 1/4" slot drill is more expensive than a 6mm slot drill in our metric country. (80% of my son's work is done with those slot drills)
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#47
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Johan you can also use a dowel drill bit ,they come in all sizes and if I am not mistaken the actual shaft that goes into the collet is 10mm dia.They come in left and right hand cut.Also when you drill reduce the speed of your Makita to slow and do drill pecking at 4 mm at a time then you won`t set the hole that you are drilling allight.By doing this you clean the drill bit every time it lifts up.
Last edited by hennie; Mon 31 May 2010 at 07:34.. |
#48
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Thanks Hennie. I will check at Mica after work.
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#49
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Hennie,
Could I ask you to post either a photo or a link to some photos for the suggested « Dowel drill bit », cause when I search through some of my manufacturer list & links, like this Leitz link, the only thing I can find as a dowel drill bit is what I call a Brad point bit. I cannot see how one can use those for normal sideways CNC routing . Drilling....yep...., but other than that ????? wounder how ! Thanks to clear this for me and surly others ! Amicalement, Robert |
#50
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Robert, the original question of Johan (post #43) was only for drilling, and Hennie did not say that sideways cutting is possible.
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#51
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dowel drill bit
Robert I use these bits on the multi borrer and something that I was busy cutting
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#52
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Thanks for showing the pics Hennie, because the guy at Mica was just staring at me with an open mouth. I will have to source it and the slot drills directly from Durban.
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#53
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Nice Hennie, how deep is your final piece. I think it is about 1m long, but let me know your max depth. Also show picture of your 3mm ballnose please. My piece I tried on the weekend looks VROT.
PS I am still waiting for that little thing to insert small bits into a 6.35mm shank.... |
#54
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950 mm long x 220 mm wide and 22 mm thick , used a 6 mm ballnose .
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#55
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Thanks Gerald & Hennie to clear this for me
Thanks for this confirmation…. as we all know too well new tools and even some new tools appellation can immerge out of nowhere. I sometime get the feeling I lose track of some evolution as I get busy with work & my new beast as I still needs to tame it & me to train more with it !! |
#56
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Salut Robert
c'est tu bon pour toi http://www.yg1usa.com/feature/itemde...sp?edpno=01593 treize piastre et demi chez http://www.industrial.ca/ au nord de la 40 alentour de l'acadi un tuyau a 10, on est quitte Bravo amigo |
#57
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Norm….
treize piastre et demi… S’tun faitte….s’pas chère…. mais a s’en méfier…. L’expérience en outillage m’a prouvé t’en à TOUJOURS pour ton cash Pas chère = trop souvent -> scrapp + perte de temps…. Pi temps = cash !! L’à tu essayer…s’a tuff tu un boutte…comparable disons a Onsrud ou Leitz ? Wouoo mon chum, ca rentre pas dans les bon tuyau çâ !! = +/- 0.01$ S’lut |
#58
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Bob cé fai pou l'métal cé tof essaye pas
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#59
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I am having problems with my tool bit suppliers. To many non technical sales people!
Gerald and other slot drillers. Is this the correct Diameter 6mm bit to use? Endmill1.jpg |
#60
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Johan, that looks okay.
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