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  #91  
Old Wed 04 August 2010, 08:57
Richards
Just call me: Mike
 
South Jordan, UT
United States of America
The jumper on JP1 (directly below the PMDX label) is set correctly for the G203v stepper drivers. (The jumper bridges Gnd and the center pin.)

The Star wiring is correct. You have one wire going from the power supply directly to each stepper driver.

47k resistor will give you about 3.5A maximum. You drives can handle more than 4A but you can increase the resistor to something closer to 62k later on. Most of the time your motors will draw much less than maximum current. I'm sure that you could use the 47k resistors forever.

I would only connect ONE G203v while you are testing one motor. There is no need to have all four G203v's connected. If you discover a problem, only one stepper driver will be affected. I would disconnect the cable between the PMDX-122 and the G203v and the power supply from the G203v except for the one drive that you will be using for testing.
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  #92  
Old Wed 04 August 2010, 09:44
renraku
Just call me: renraku
 
rome
Italy
Ok Richards i'll change 47K resistor with 62 K
thanks
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  #93  
Old Wed 04 August 2010, 15:07
Richards
Just call me: Mike
 
South Jordan, UT
United States of America
Renraku,

I'm sorry. I may have confused you.

It not necessary to change that resistor right now. 47k will let the motor pull about 3.5A. 62k will let the motor pull about 4A. During the testing phase, I doubt that the motor will pull even 1A.

Right now, you're just learning how to operate the electronics. It's like learning to drive. When you first start driving, you don't need a race car. In fact, you would probably have a very hard time controlling a race car. With the resistor set at 47k, you'll have everything that you need except a few ounces of torque. Right now, you don't need that extra torque. You may never need it.

So, start with what you have. Learn how to use it and then make changes when things need to be changed.

As an experiment, I just finished running a test. I changed the current limiting resistor on a motor so that the motor could only pull 1/2 of it's rated Amps. On the test bench, that motor still worked perfectly.

A while back, I posted a test that showed how hard it was to get a motor to pull maximum current.

What I'm trying to say is that using 47k will not cause any problems. It won't hurt the test. It will be just fine.

I know that things are confusing right now. Things were confusing for me when I first started using stepper motors. I read everything that I could find on stepper motors. The information that I read made me think that using stepper motors should be left to the experts. That just wasn't true. When you first start using a stepper motor, you only have to understand the basics. You have everything that you need: A power supply, a G203v, a PMDX-122, a motor and Mach 3.

Things won't always be confusing. Start with what you have. Learn how it works and then ask questions if you have any problems.
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  #94  
Old Thu 02 September 2010, 00:44
Red_boards
Just call me: Red #91
 
Melbourne
Australia
Motors not turning

I'm using PMDX-125 with Gecko 203's and MK9801 motors.
I connected up the motors last night but could not get them to jog using the test pulser built into the PMDX-125 (nor Mach3).

I've checked my wiring and it seems correct.

The motors are holding torque when power is on - they just are not jogging.

The fuse in my multimeter blew, so it stopped my tracing, but a suggestion I have come across in the manuals is that the BOB pulses are not strong enough for the Geckos to recognise. Is this a potential candidate or are there others I should consider?
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  #95  
Old Thu 02 September 2010, 20:56
Red_boards
Just call me: Red #91
 
Melbourne
Australia
Using the PMDX-125 built-in test mode

Here is the query I sent to PMDX. It exposes my embarrassing lack of knowledge
Forgive the idiot question but I can't get motors to turn and am trying
> to fault trace.
> 1.The E-stop LED is lit red whether the jumper to ground is in place or
> not. Does this indicate an error condition?
> 2. When dip switches are set to activate outputs for testing, one
> LED(Step) lights at the output (J1-4)
>
> The motors hold torque when power is applied to my circuit, but I can't
> get the motors to jog using the PMDX test button.
> Assuming wiring and voltages are correct, is it likely that the Step/Dir
> inputs on the Gecko 203's I am using are toasted?
> Another cause could be that the PMDX is not generating strong enough
> pulses for the Gecko 203's. Is that likely?
> Or can you suggest other directions I should be looking?
>

Here is Steve Stalling's prompt and comprehensive reply:
It is normal for the red E-Stop LED to be lit
when the board is in a test mode. If you put
all the switches in the open position as shown
in the lower left image of Figure 1 (page 8)
then the E-Stop LED should operate normally.

Normal operation would be:

The red E-Stop LED should come on if the jumper
between GND and E-Stop is removed, but should
stay off if the jumper is connected.

It is normal for the red E-Stop LED to come on
for about 1 second when the board is first
powered on, or when it is reset.

The red E-Stop LED will also come on if you
have a connection from the Fault input to GND.

When you are in a test mode, only one motor
at a time is driven, as shown by the chart
in Table 9 on page 15.

Make sure that you have the step and direction
connections set up to match the switch settings.

Also make sure that the "common" signal for
your step and direction inputs is connected to
PC+5V or PCgnd as required by your drivers. For
G203V drivers this connection should go between
the PCgnd of the PMDX-125 and the COMMON on the
G203V.

When the PMDX-125 is generating step pulses in
test mode, the "STEPS" LED will flicker and the
"Outputs Enabled" LED should be on.

The signals from the PMDX-125 are strong enough
to run even two G203Vs from the same output. It
is unlikely that your G203V inputs are damaged.


There was a key phrase for me in the reply: Check the PMDX 'PC Grnd' is connected to the Gecko 'Common'.
I had the PMDX 'PC+5V' connected to Gecko 'Common', so nothing worked as expected.

It was interesting to note that when I fixed the wiring and tested each motor that no LED lit at the PMDX J1-4 outputs.
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  #96  
Old Sun 07 November 2010, 06:10
fanefane
Just call me: Stefan #73
 
Baia Mare
Romania
PMDX-122 connect M880A drivers

Hello. I want to buy a PMDX-122 and use it with some M880A drivers
(http://www.cncshop.cz/PDF/M880A.pdf).
On the driver appears another wire for
ENABLE (see Typical Connection). Where should I connect that wire? And how do I
connect PUL+,PUL-,ENA+,ENA-,DIR+,DIR-? Thank you.
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  #97  
Old Thu 18 November 2010, 20:14
cleyte
Just call me: Clayton #106
 
Bishop's Falls, Newfoundland
Canada
PMDX 125 Test Mode

Hi Red,

I need information regarding the LEDs that are active during Test Mode on your PMDX 125.

I just tested mine using one Gecko 203v and one motor. When the board is powered on in "Normal Mode" I get the Power On LED and the Outputs Enable LED come on as described in the PMDX 125 user's manual. However, when I set the dip switches (config 1 - 8) for "TEST MODE" to activate the approriate output pins, in my case J4, I get the ESTOP and Power On LEDs as per the manual, but my Status LED is on (and solid) at all times during the test. The motor is turning and changing direction and the appropriate LEDS next to the outputs of J4 come on as expected. The PMDX 125 manual states the when the status light is on solid, some sort of fault may have been detected. What is puzzling is that the motor responds as it should. Connecting to another set of pins (J1, etc) produces the same results with the STATUS led on at all times.

I spoke with PMDX support and it was suggested that maybe the the board is behaving fine but the documentation in the guide may need updating. There is a possibility that the firmware for the board has changed since the documentation was originally created.

Can you run a test in TEST MODE and describe how your your LEDs behave?

Thanks for any help/advise you can provide.

Clayton
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  #98  
Old Thu 18 November 2010, 20:28
Red_boards
Just call me: Red #91
 
Melbourne
Australia
Hi Clayton,
I've stripped down the kitchen table project for rebuilding into the control box. Then I toasted my multimeter which has delayed wiring up switches, etc.
I'll have a look and see whether I have enough wired to give you an answer.
My recollection is that the manual is incorrect on the LED lit - one of the things that led me astray during testing.
But I'll try to test this weekend.
Regards
Red
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  #99  
Old Tue 31 January 2012, 07:27
renraku
Just call me: renraku
 
rome
Italy
Smooth Stepper

Hi i would like change connection system from Centronics to USB for my PMDX 122, i need of a suggest for a good model of "Smooth Stepper", what i have to buy ? I can't find over PDMX website, Thanks
i want to use a Laptop pc
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  #100  
Old Tue 31 January 2012, 22:19
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
I don't think the 122 will support the Smooth Stepper. You need to replave it with a PMDX-126 board if you want to stay with PMDX products.
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  #101  
Old Tue 31 January 2012, 23:16
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
We use the PMDX-122 with Smoothstepper, albeit a from a few years back.
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  #102  
Old Wed 01 February 2012, 05:39
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Yup - G - You Da Man as usual !! I should have researched deeper. I stand corrected !!! Thanks !!

http://www.machsupport.com/forum/ind....html#msg43351
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  #103  
Old Wed 01 February 2012, 06:18
renraku
Just call me: renraku
 
rome
Italy
thanks so much
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  #104  
Old Wed 01 February 2012, 10:38
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Also PMDX does not sell the Smooth Stepper.

Warp9 does.

http://www.warp9td.com/
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  #105  
Old Fri 03 February 2012, 08:47
alan254
Just call me: Al #95
 
mystic ct
United States of America
fuse size geko 203v

I have chosen to fuse for ease of isolation and testing. I know it is not required because of the 15 amp fues within the 203v. The question I have is should i fuse them at say 10 amps to protect fuse within the geko I am wiring the PK296A2A-SG7.2 motors at half coil therefor should draw between 3 and 4 amps.

thanks

al
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  #106  
Old Sat 04 February 2012, 09:46
Richards
Just call me: Mike
 
South Jordan, UT
United States of America
Al,

Why not just order some fuses from Geckodrive? The fuses inside the G203v are extremely fast acting. Most regular fuses will not blow fast enough to protect the internal Gecko G203v fuse.
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  #107  
Old Sat 04 February 2012, 13:25
alan254
Just call me: Al #95
 
mystic ct
United States of America
Mike

My thought was, that during testing i could just pull out the fuse or fuses of the legs i am not working on disenabeling the gerkos i want to shut off and test the rest. A glorified switch.

I will order backup fuses.

al
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  #108  
Old Sat 04 February 2012, 20:31
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Install a dedicated fuse to protect another dedicated fuse... & better yet, I prume your have your wires done to code which already has MCB (Main Circuit breaker) to protect the dedicated fuse you intended to install to protect another dedicated fuse... PLUS ( I presume) an ELCB (Earth Leak Circuit breaker) on top of everything to protect the MB which protects the intended dedicated fuse which protects another dedicated fuse...
hmmmm.... sounds like over zealous to me...
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  #109  
Old Thu 05 April 2012, 18:12
Guillermo
Just call me: Guillermo
 
Puerto Ordaz
Venezuela
Hi all
In my water Jet project , in addition of the X axis, Y axis and proxis , y need to

control tree (3) pneumatic valve solenoids.

Can them be controlled by the PMDX 122 or PMDX 126, or is there the need of

another board ??

What solenoid valve configuration should I look for . (Volts , DC , AC etc ) ?

Thanks

Guillermo.
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  #110  
Old Thu 05 April 2012, 20:55
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
PMDX-126 can also host a another board called the 104 that will give you more relay options. This may do what you need it to do.
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  #111  
Old Fri 06 April 2012, 11:28
Guillermo
Just call me: Guillermo
 
Puerto Ordaz
Venezuela
Hi Mike

Pease , help me clarify this.

The 104 board relay contact is rated 5 amp maximum
250 VAC or 30 VDC maximum.

Does this means that a 12 or 24 VDC solenoid can be connected directly to the

104 board with out additional relays ??

Thanks Mike
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  #112  
Old Fri 06 April 2012, 12:01
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Yes - That is the way I read it as long as you are below 5 amps.

http://www.pmdx.com/Doc/PMDX-104_Manual_10.pdf

You can contact Steve at PMDX and he can tell you better than I can.

The 104 is a board of relays.
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  #113  
Old Fri 06 April 2012, 12:05
Guillermo
Just call me: Guillermo
 
Puerto Ordaz
Venezuela
Thanks Mike.

Guillermo
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  #114  
Old Fri 06 April 2012, 23:28
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
The on-board relay is for connecting directly to 12/24V axillary equipment. If you want to control 240V or 415V equipment, you can use these on-board relays to drive another bigger external relay which in-turn control the switching of your auxiliaries utility...

Or, you can connect you I/O pin to control an external SSR (Solid-state relay)。
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  #115  
Old Sat 07 April 2012, 08:57
Guillermo
Just call me: Guillermo
 
Puerto Ordaz
Venezuela
Ok Ken,

Now i am clear about this.

Hope to see you in next treads.

Thanks. Guillermo
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  #116  
Old Fri 13 December 2013, 05:25
Oleks
Just call me: Oleks
 
Poltava
Ukraine
is it too bad idea to supply PMDX -122's 12V from computer?

and also for my drivers logics (need regulated 12V).
my PC is going to be inside control box.
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  #117  
Old Fri 13 December 2013, 06:05
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
I don't see why not... Actually, I did just that.
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