Got clean air now!! #127 - Big Falls, Mn - Page 5

Kornerking · #**121** Fri 29 January 2016, 06:08

Read the instructions Pete

Slave motor wouldn't move. I didn't have it slaved.

Kornerking · #**122** Sat 30 January 2016, 13:59

Dumb question. How much surface preparation did you do on your steel prior to weld-up? My bent parts are about 3 years old and have a little surface rust, thinking it might be easier to do it prior to welding.

darren salyer · #**123** Sat 30 January 2016, 18:39

i hit mine with a random orbit sander...just because.

MetalHead · #**124** Sun 31 January 2016, 05:08

3 rules of welding.

1. Clean
2. Clean
3. Clean

Hope this helps

Kornerking · #**125** Mon 01 February 2016, 05:02

The welds are a no brainer. It was the flat surface preparation. May as well clean them up while they are accessible.
Got my dovetailing program created on cut2d this weekend and it runs in mach3. Once I do actual parts I will need to adjust tail length.
Picking up steel tomorrow. Rack and pinions are on the way as well as the balance of the kit from Mike.
Hopefully my new employee can start work by April 1.

Kornerking · #**126** Thu 04 February 2016, 16:13

Ok, I'm going bug eyed with reading and research.

Trying to find how to tune motors. Been to the gecko site, it's greek to me. I have the 203v geckos . Motors are running very hot.

Can anyone point me in the right direction?

MetalHead · #**127** Thu 04 February 2016, 18:08

You need your current limit resisters. Are you using the 134 board? Also what do you mean by hot?

Kornerking · #**128** Thu 04 February 2016, 18:31

133 board.

without a thermometer it is hard to tell. I wouldn't want to hold them very long. Is this normal?

darren salyer · #**129** Thu 04 February 2016, 20:14

Do you have current limiters in place?

MetalHead · #**130** Fri 05 February 2016, 04:48

http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3561

Look at these pictures.

In the 133 manual here on page 5 number 9.

http://www.pmdx.com/Doc/PMDX-133_Manual_12.pdf

MetalHead · #**131** Fri 05 February 2016, 04:56

http://www.geckodrive.com/support/mo...03v-rev-7.html

CURRENT SET RESISTOR

TERMINAL 11 Current Set
Connect the current set resistor to this terminal

TERMINAL 12 Current Set
Connect the other end of the current set resistor to this terminal

This input matches the G203V’s current output to the motor windings. The G203V will accommodate motor winding currents from 0 to 7A. Use the following equation to calculate the value, (in kilo-Ohms) of the current set resistor:
R (in kilo-ohms) = 47 * I / (7 – I) Use the nearest standard value 5% tolerance, 1/4W resistor for this setting.

Here are the current set resistor values for motor current in .5A increments. Round the appropriate answer to the nearest 5% resistor value.

a. 1A – 7.8K
b. 1.5A – 12.8K
c. 2A – 18.8K
d. 2.5A – 26.1K
e. 3A – 35.25K
f. 3.5A – 47K
g. 4A – 62.67K
h. 4.5A – 84.6K
i. 5A – 117.5K
j. 5.5A – 172.33K
k. 6A – 282K
l. 6.5A – 611K
m. 7A – OPEN

MAKE SURE YOUR RESISTOR IS REALLY THE CORRECT SIZE !!

Sometimes you will get the wrong resistor ie 282ohms or 2.83Meg instead of 282K for example.

Kornerking · #**132** Fri 05 February 2016, 07:22

Thanks Mike.
Ok. So there is a master resistor on the 133 already. I now need to add an individual one for each gecko, correct?

Is this what I should be looking at?http://www.geckodrive.com/resistor-pack.html

Kornerking · #**133** Sat 06 February 2016, 08:59

Major Success.

Lightbulb came on and realized what we needed to do for the resistors. As an added bonus we had a large selection (1000 or more ) from Digikey that we got at an auction sale a few years ago. Almost threw them away last fall. Anyway the resistors we needed were in the selection. Motors are totally cold now.

Only issue is the x axis motors are turning twice the speed of the y & Z motors in jog mode. I'm sure that too will be resolved.

servant74 · #**134** Sat 06 February 2016, 09:40

Just be warned, (from personal experience) if the motors get to hot, they may freeze once they cool never to move again. It cost me purchasing a new set of motors to learn that one, I hope you don't learn it the same way.

Kornerking · #**135** Sat 06 February 2016, 10:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by servant74

Just be warned, (from personal experience) if the motors get to hot, they may freeze once they cool never to move again. It cost me purchasing a new set of motors to learn that one, I hope you don't learn it the same way.

Thanks.
They are turning nice and staying cool. The resistors seem to have done the trick.

Kornerking · #**136** Sun 07 February 2016, 06:53

Trying to identify this part that came in my supplies from Darren Sayler.

Looks like a router holder for the z slide. If it is how do I know if it is the right one for the Milwaukee?

Kornerking · #**137** Sun 07 February 2016, 07:42

And another question.
Is there an advantage or disadvantage wiring the motors straight to the gecko (134) versus going through a dinblock? I have the dinblocks but is it just another potential fail point?

Nikonauts · #**138** Sun 07 February 2016, 22:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kornerking

Trying to identify this part that came in my supplies from Darren Sayler.

Looks like a router holder for the z slide. If it is how do I know if it is the right one for the Milwaukee?

Just make sure the OD of the router match the ID of the bracket.

Routers are made to a certain preferred diameter... because they're used in conjuctions with other accessories/fittings. And the diameter is published somewhere as it is a very important spec, most important after the motor wattage and max shank size.

Tom Ayres · #**139** Mon 08 February 2016, 02:45

You know they say that size matters...

Kornerking · #**140** Mon 08 February 2016, 04:24

Thanks Tom. I figured that was the case and after posting I did even more research and found out it was but couldn't delete the post. And if it doesn't fit the Milwaukee I found several good options.
Sometimes it's not the size that matters but how well you can operate it.

Kornerking · #**141** Mon 08 February 2016, 05:27

Hey all you Milwaukee 5625 router owners. Care to share the OD of the motor? I have googled to try and find it but no success.

On a side note just received notification my laser machine is shipping from Melbourne today. Now I will be able to logo our products in house instead of having it done outside.

Exciting times here at Kornerking.

darren salyer · #**142** Mon 08 February 2016, 14:16

looks identical to my milwaukee holder. I'll measure soon as I get back to shop.

darren salyer · #**143** Mon 08 February 2016, 14:21

My cheapo dial caliper says 4.158

darren salyer · #**144** Mon 08 February 2016, 14:24

30 seconds with Google netted me 4.125....

Kornerking · #**145** Mon 08 February 2016, 14:33

It's a match. Thanks #101
One less item to search out.
I sure am glad I bought that kit from you.
Steel comes in tomorrow and we can get flying.

Nikonauts · #**146** Mon 08 February 2016, 20:16

This link says it's 4.125 (measured by caliper).

edit :

Sorry, didn't read till the end before replying.
Have fun welding the laser cut parts.

Kornerking · #**147** Tue 09 February 2016, 04:20

Thanks for the link Nikonauts. One more small step in the Mechmate saga.
It's getting pretty simple to find the information needed what with all of the links and pictures. That footpath that Gerald laid down is becoming a super highway for those of us now following.

Kornerking · #**148** Tue 09 February 2016, 13:43

Me again.
I ordered my angle for the rails in a 2 1/2 x 1 1/2 configuration planning on cutting it down. Today I saw this quote from Gerald in 2008.

Quote:

Having said all that, I am comfortable with people wanting to use 1.5" tall rails. But I am nervous of the confusion another set of optional drawings will cause - especially when:
- there is an easy alu / V-Cap option available
- 2.5 x 1.5 angle is not that commonly available
- cutting rails down is not that difficult.

The question then becomes if I use the 1 1/2 as is do I need to modify motor mounts?

Second question. I called out for uncut 240" stock but they did like every thing else and cut it in half. 120". This is about what my final length will be but I know I need additional for grinding. I'm thinking I should be able to tack on extensions on each end and then cut to size after they are ground. Am I off base on this?

smreish · #**149** Tue 09 February 2016, 16:56

Pete,
The difference you are going to see is you may not be able to use the larger pinion sizes (35T) and be stuck with a 20T pinion and the motor will hang at an more extreme tilted angle. Additionally, the smaller pinion will affect the top end speed of the machine. If you are using 3:1 gearing or 3.6:1 geared motors - Not a big deal. The 7.2;1 Geared motors will want that 30-35T pinion for good jog speeds.

On the steel Leg height. Ultimately, you are going to loose about 1/16 +/- preparing the stock leg of the angle before you start the VEE grind for a verified uniform rolling surface. This is important due to the fact that the grind skate is a top referenced grind and important to have datum to start from that is near perfect.

In the end, the finished height is close to expected in the plans with you steel choice.

Kornerking · #**150** Tue 09 February 2016, 17:26

Sean, thanks for the advice.
So you are saying it would be wisest to cut it to the 1.1 inch height then.
Correct?

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