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  #61  
Old Fri 16 May 2008, 08:23
dmoore
Just call me:
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc Shlaes View Post
Which Milwaukee did you buy and did it fit the skate perfectly? You posted that somewhere (I thought) but I don't find it.

Here is the post where I detailed the specific grinder:

http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=741

Purchased at HomeDepot for $99.00 USD.

It didn't fit without opening up the inside hole for the head with a die grinder. The orginal ID of the skate is 1.714" and the Milwaukee and Ryobi are both around ~1.82" OD. There was discussion of the nead for 1/4" spacers between the plate and the head but they shouldn't be neccessary if you put the #8 screws in all four spots. (BTW - the Ryobi screws are metric, the Milwaukee is inch)

I also HIGHLY recommend the handles for the sides - they are from McMaster-Carr and are part number 57455K76, you'll need two of them. Drill and tap the end holes to 1/2". See my other posts for more details.

I also highly recommend the SteelMax saw for cutting the rails down. It was completely accurate and took less than 30 minutes to cut down all the rails.
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  #62  
Old Fri 16 May 2008, 08:26
dmoore
Just call me:
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMS View Post
In both cases IMHO the reason is same, hot machine.
I also wrapped a web shop towel around the head of the grinder (to each side of the handles) and this seemed to work well. It also helped cut down on the number of sparks hitting my hands.
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  #63  
Old Thu 22 May 2008, 13:16
bbreaker
Just call me: Mickey
 
Galgan
France
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hi there, some news, . . . . . . . i've started to grind Y rail and i think finished the gantry next week.

Some picture of my last work

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  #64  
Old Fri 06 June 2008, 07:18
lunaj76
Just call me: Justin #24
 
Littleton, (Colorado)
United States of America
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Cutting rails to 1.1 with grind head top plate.

We ordered 2.5X1.5X.25 angle for the rails instead of the recommended 2.5X2.5X.25. Reason: only 1.725 of working height between bottom of grind head top plate and work surface (grinder is Bosch 1710). By using 2.5X1.5X.25 you get more life out of the cut wheel because the uncut rail will completely slide under the bottom of the grind head top plate. Am I making any sense? We used the pferd cut wheels and only used a few wheels cutting 40' of rail to height.

Justin

This post copied from Drawing Corrections thread as a heads-up on using a lower angle iron to prevent multiple passes.
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  #65  
Old Wed 11 June 2008, 19:56
lumberjack_jeff
Just call me: Jeff #31
 
Montesano, WA
United States of America
Smith and Arrow cutoff disks

First time poster, long time lurker.

Does anyone have experience with these cutting disks?

At $47 (including shipping) for a box of 50, these would appear to be a good value for those in the US. (I didn't see the pferd disks readily available)

Last edited by lumberjack_jeff; Wed 11 June 2008 at 20:02..
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  #66  
Old Thu 12 June 2008, 18:20
dmoore
Just call me:
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmoore View Post
Here is the post where I detailed the specific grinder:

http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=741

....

I also HIGHLY recommend the handles for the sides - they are from McMaster-Carr and are part number 57455K76, you'll need two of them. Drill and tap the end holes to 1/2". See my other posts for more details.
FYI - in my complete BOM, I have listed the individual screws and washers required to mount the Milwaukee to the skate. It also has all the other screws, bolts, bearings, handles, etc - the BOM can be found here:

http://www.dmoore.com/mechmate/bom.xls
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  #67  
Old Thu 12 June 2008, 21:12
Doug_Ford
Just call me: Doug #3
 
Conway (Arkansas)
United States of America
Jeff,

I've never used them but I agree with you. Don't see how you can beat the price.
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  #68  
Old Fri 13 June 2008, 00:00
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Would anyone want the hole in the skate cut slightly bigger for a non-Bosch grinder? We might be able to decide on a standard hole size before the next round of Joe's laser cuttings. A slightly bigger hole will not degrade the use of a Bosch grinder.
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  #69  
Old Fri 13 June 2008, 05:09
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Gerald,
Good recommendation and change. As you know, I had to oversize my hole slightly, but I was still able to use the RYOBI and BOSCH grinders selectively with the same (4) BOLT pattern. Great idea to make the skate more "universal".
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  #70  
Old Fri 13 June 2008, 05:55
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmoore View Post
. . . . . The orginal ID of the skate is 1.714" and the Milwaukee and Ryobi are both around ~1.82" OD. . . . .
Any other volunteers?
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  #71  
Old Fri 13 June 2008, 18:22
Doug_Ford
Just call me: Doug #3
 
Conway (Arkansas)
United States of America
I have never used the skate so I'm not exactly sure what I should be measuring. Are y'all talking about the round part of the motor housing through which the spindle passes? The part that the guard clamps to? That's what I'm guessing.

I have two grinders. A Dewalt DW402 and a Black and Decker Quantum Pro. Both of them measured 1.502"

For all of you lurkers out there that are planning to build a MM one day, now is the time to chime in with your measurements. Go out in the garage and measure your grinder and post the results.
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  #72  
Old Fri 13 June 2008, 20:36
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Thanks Doug.

Well, unless someone has a common grinder at bigger than 1.82", the hole size is now firmed up at 1.85" (as per Sean's first prototype, of which he gave me a dxf file)
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  #73  
Old Sat 14 June 2008, 08:42
dmoore
Just call me:
 
That works for me as it's not the hole ID that holds the grinder in place, it's the screws into the head. On a side note - the Milwaukee and Ryobi which are basically the same head sizes, the screws on the Ryobi are 6mm and the Milwaukee are #8 screws.
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  #74  
Old Sat 14 June 2008, 09:17
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
I presume that all grinders have 4 screws placed in a square. What it the thickest screw (surely not 6mm)?
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  #75  
Old Sat 09 August 2008, 04:40
hennie
Just call me: Hennie #23
 
Roodepoort JHB
South Africa
Got some courage to cut the rails

Started cutting the rails down. Look at a carpenters method of building a slide to cut down the rails again some off cut material and bobs your uncle.
Kobus made the gadget with the same tape we are talking about put some screws on top just in case it moves.Took me longer to get the hight right then to make it.

Took +/- 15 min to cut through the first rail with one & half disks.The objective is to cut both rails from one side.Had to go home the boss called they wanted to go and watch whales.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Picture 173.jpg (31.6 KB, 2373 views)
File Type: jpg DSC00736.JPG (26.9 KB, 2367 views)
File Type: jpg DSC00737.JPG (24.5 KB, 2363 views)
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  #76  
Old Sun 10 August 2008, 00:16
Kobus_Joubert
Just call me: Kobus #6
 
Riversdale Western Cape
South Africa
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I hope that yellow grinder is not an Einhell from Trade Centre. They are fine for cutting the rail but grinding the bevel they are not very strong. Nice going Hennie
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  #77  
Old Sun 10 August 2008, 01:16
hennie
Just call me: Hennie #23
 
Roodepoort JHB
South Africa
No, it is a De Walt Last much longer! I try to keep the el cheepo`s on display for affirmative shopping purposes,You know what I mean. I have a Bosch for the bevel grinding on my laser cut gadget.Reason why I made the funny wooden block is that my angle iron is 60 x 60 and you have experiance in using the grinding skate ,hight is a problem and I wasnt prepaired to pay more for other angle iron.
Would like to do some more but I am baby sitting today.
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  #78  
Old Mon 11 August 2008, 12:54
hennie
Just call me: Hennie #23
 
Roodepoort JHB
South Africa
Did some more cutting on the y-rails (second one ).It is not such a bad job,dirty yes!I did manage to cut both rails down from one side. wil post pic`s tomorrow,will try and do the x-rails also.
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  #79  
Old Tue 12 August 2008, 03:11
kaartman
Just call me: Koning #20
 
Abu Dhabi
United Arab Emirates
Rails drilled, cut and grind

Thank you for the welcome words.
I made this adaption for my Makita grinder form offcut MDF and a few screws, the grinder fits snug into the MDF supports, I made sure that no high squeezing pressure is exerted onto the housing of the grinder body. It worked well for me, the cutting and grinding is off to a great start and completed, the temperature is not of the cutting disc, it is our 11h00 morning temperature in full shade.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg hor.JPG (16.7 KB, 2383 views)
File Type: jpg 45deg.JPG (28.2 KB, 2372 views)
File Type: jpg temp.JPG (22.2 KB, 2383 views)
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  #80  
Old Tue 12 August 2008, 04:12
javeria
Just call me: Irfan #33
 
Bangalore
India
nice grinder attachment though!
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  #81  
Old Tue 12 August 2008, 08:34
hennie
Just call me: Hennie #23
 
Roodepoort JHB
South Africa
rails

Pic 1 shows what was left of the disk for the back rail did not even finished the disk only used that one disk.
pic2 &3 shows rails back to back cut from one side

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  #82  
Old Tue 12 August 2008, 23:22
Leko
Just call me: Leko
 
Kaukapakapa
New Zealand
It looks like you're grinding angles in the middle picture of post 79, how did that work?
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  #83  
Old Wed 13 August 2008, 04:42
kaartman
Just call me: Koning #20
 
Abu Dhabi
United Arab Emirates
Leko,
The picture with the disc horizontal is a illustration of cutting the angle iron down to size, I did cut the angle iron from both sides, that way I found the cutting disc lasted longer, by preventing the cutting disc from slicing through the metal ensures that the disc remain the same thickness and does not grind thinner between the angle iron and the off-cut, the final “flat “grinding was done with a grinding disc. Keep in mind the difference between the use of a cutting and grinding disc.
The picture showing the grinding in action is the actual 45 deg grinding, with a 45 degree conversion to the grinder adaption. I found that discs made by Makita and De Walt is top quality and outlast most other brands.
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  #84  
Old Thu 25 September 2008, 08:26
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Disc info

Hi guys,

Has anyone ever head, tried or tested SAIT Z-tech (the "Z" is for zirconium grain) cutting wheels ?
How can/do they compare to the preferred PFERD ?
Thanks, Robert
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  #85  
Old Thu 30 October 2008, 18:43
YRD
Just call me: Yuri #17
 
Brasilia - DF
Brazil
Pferd

Now with PFERD.

It was difficult to find in Brazil.

Much better than Norton.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC004091.jpg (33.2 KB, 2122 views)
File Type: jpg DSC004101.jpg (34.8 KB, 2128 views)
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  #86  
Old Sat 08 November 2008, 11:40
javeria
Just call me: Irfan #33
 
Bangalore
India
some updates and trouble

. . . . we were trying to cut the angle iron today (see pic in the zipped file, donno why but always the cuts went one mm below as if the cut was digging into the L - angle rail.

May be I did not have a sturdy enough clamp made for the angle grinder.

will try again on monday though - any comments and help are welcome - meanwhile I did not laser cut the grinding attachment - thought would borrow it from vishnu - since vishnu is down with high fever I will be postponing the angle grinding or may be ask sharma to lend his.

will keep all posted though.

RGDS
IRfan
Attached Files
File Type: zip 1108_121049.zip (392.4 KB, 173 views)
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  #87  
Old Sat 08 November 2008, 12:09
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
I think you have the wrong grinding technique if your disk is that deep through the metal. . . . .


The idea is to cut a shallow groove over a long distance, come back and cut it a bit deeper, come back again and cut it deeper again, etc. You may take 10 to 20 "steps" or oscillations to get through the metal.
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  #88  
Old Sat 08 November 2008, 13:04
hennie
Just call me: Hennie #23
 
Roodepoort JHB
South Africa
Irfan, I used that method and it did work for me.
Screw your rail against some flat surface,maybe the spoil board and get your friend to hold some safety glases in front of you, use both hands on your grinder.Looks like you are holding the grinder down with your right hand on the handle( might be that you are pushing it down.Your clamps look ok I used one of my extractors hose clamps )

Like Gerald`s reply don`t force the cutting disk into the angle iron just, just let the cutting disk touch the metal you will be amazed how much it takes of. Take it from side to side running the full length of the rail. you will do some serious exersise behind the rail but it works.

Look at my thread it should show you.Try putting your rails back to back then you cut them together same hight and they are straight.
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  #89  
Old Tue 11 November 2008, 22:26
kn6398
Just call me: Kray
 
Fort Worth
United States of America
Some PICs of progress

Here are some PICs of the progress.
I burned the Chicago cheap grinder and had to buy higher amper grinder.
I wanted at least 8A grinder but could not find any that would fit my skate so I end up with the 6A Bosch with a little grinding on the skate to make it fit. I had the older version skate with hole size of 1.72.

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  #90  
Old Tue 11 November 2008, 22:48
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Hey, this is all good stuff!

(except for the dead grinder - which is becoming a rite of passage for a typical MM builder)
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