Cuttings signs and insects #36 - Antwerpen, Belgium

[Barman]

Ok, I leave out the fuses for the gecko's .
But , can I order the Transfo of 230v/2x25V and the ELCO of 22000μF ?
And wire it as my schema ?

[Gerald D]

My reply is already in post #28: "Those calculations perfect for G201 and G202 drives. For G203, you do not need fuses, they have fuses inside."

Your post says 1x "Elco" while your schematic shows 2x. But 1x will be okay.

[Barman]

ok, I understand it now .

[Barman]

Here are some pics of my “ kitchen table" project.

4 x Gecko G203V - Vampire
1 x Mach3 - interface card + license
Purchased by: www.leeuwinga.nl

4 x Steppers VEXTA PK296AE-SG7.2
Purchased by: www.rotero.com


As limit – and home switches I’m using 4x induktieve switches from Efector IF5538 .
Two switches for the X direction will be build in the pushbutton stations .
So in the main junction box on the Y-car will be the 3 others relais.

All the motors can be jogged and run without an error .

However tuning has yet to happen.

[Robert M]

Congratulation Bart, nicely done.
Thanks for the info, bonne chance sur votre montage de la stucture ....Keep those photos in

[sailfl]

Bart,

Control box looks great.

Is that a hour meter on your BOB?

[Barman]

Thank You,

Yes, it is an hour meter.
The intention is that I later know the total time that I have worked on a particular project.
One project can mayby exist out more then one .dxf files .
With the switch I can reset .

[sailfl]

Bart,

Mach tells you the time it has taken to cut a file so you can record those times if you have more than one cut file for a job.

Once you start using your machine, you will rarely open you control box door. I put a hour meter on the door but I rarely look at it.

[Barman]

Probably you are right about it.
But, I had this hour meter on surplus.
This build was a good moment to use it.
Time will tell if I use him or not.

[Barman]

Things that I still need to order are:
Lapp cable - gasspring 100 N – IGUS Chain.
I could not resist to wait for it .
So I used a not so flexible cable LIYCY to see what would happen.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pIDXVfnb9GM

And it was very amazing for me .
This is certainly fine .
Now, I will experiment with the Mach3 settings .

[sailfl]

Bart,

Interesting router and Z you have.

That progress should encourage you to finish quickly. You think that is fun wait until you cut some thing, that is real fun.

[Gerald D]

Congratulations Bart, that is some neat construction and good movement.

[Barman]

Today I have ordered all the rest.
Lapp cable can I buy a meter without additional cutting costs in a local store.
The deliverytime of the gasspring is about 2 weeks.
I really look forward to finish this MM.

[Tailgunner]

Can you tell me where you got the pinions and rack (tandlat) from.
I also live in Belgium and would like to buy as much parts close to home.

[Barman]

He Gregory ,

Look at www.bogaert-transmission.com/

The needed rack and pinion's are in stock .
I payed about 30 euro for 2 m rack and about 3.5 euro for the pinion (z = 36)
.

[Tailgunner]

Thanx for the info, excellent

[Barman]

After my z -slide was finished and everything was connected ,
I have tested the MM by using a pencil.
During testing I noticed a wear pattern in my x – rails and z-slide .
The y-rail is ok.
The attached photos were taken after about 14 h testing and are the worst cases .

I have rechecked the parallel distance between the x –y rails.
This time I have used a dial gauge , so I could measure up to 0,01 mm.
My y-rails are now within the range of 0,25 mm and the x-rails are within the range of 0,15 mm .I think this is ok .

I have disconnected te motors from the rack , and there is no resistance when I move the gantry . Everything turns very soft .

The only thing that perhaps could cause this wear pattern is that , the angle of the x-rail is not exactly 2x45 °.

Could this be a problem in the future? Or should I keep it ?

[Gerald D]

Bart, I am sure that it will be okay. I have seen some very bad rails, yet they still gave a good cutting result. Your rails are actually quite good, and I can see you are being very careful with the construction.

[Barman]

Thank you Gerald, that's a relief .
Now I have to finish my dustfoot and the routermount and maybe next week my first cutting .

[Barman]

Smoke & Dust - First Cuts :

After experimenting with Autocad and Lazycam I made my first pieces.
These pieces I gone use for the dustpipe .
Everything is drawn in autocad and then I have “offset “ the half diameter of the mill.
I know , that this is not the right way, but I am still learning.
The router is a KINZO - 650 W ( I bought it about 10 years ago and was not expensive, along with 2 HSS mills: diameter: 10 mm - 22 mm). I have used the 10 mm mill to cut these pieces in paces of 4 mm at the time and with a feedrate of 600 . The material is black MDF of 19 mm.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nfSCEDPENfM

As you can see it goes pretty wrong after milling around the 8 st piece.
Is this normal , ... or what did I wrong? .

I have read that you always have to mill clockwise on the inside of a workpiece.
Or can you also mill against the clock without burning the mill ?

What is a good diameter for milling MDF of 18 mm, and in how many paces can it be done ?

[sailfl]

Bart,

Is that smoke?

It does not matter which direction you go.

You are cutting 4 mm per pass which sounds good. I usually make about 3 passes. Feed rate of 600 what?

You should not be getting smoke. You are burning the material.

[domino11]

Bart,
I think the HSS end mills might be part of your problem. I have heard that guys only get a couple of feet of cutting on a cnc mill before they dull and start to smoke. Switch to carbide cutters. Solid or at least carbide tipped. Be careful if you are seeing smoke like that, you dont want a fire! Lets see that logo and a new serial number will be coming!

[servant74]

I know a person that cuts a LOT of MDF, and only MDF. He has been purchasing diamond coated router bits just for the longevity. He tends to think it is economical for him, but I have not seen any data on it.

[Gerald D]

Congratulations Bart!

Yeah, smoke is not good. You need to use a tungsten carbide (wolfram in Dutch?) cutter and you won't see smoke for at least a full day of cutting those parts. The direction of cut makes no difference to the life of the cutter.

You can cut about 10mm deep with a 10mm diam cutter, and 6mm deep with a 6mm diam cutter, etc. It depends on how much detail you need in the corners of the finished part.

[Barman]

Hey all,

Thank you for the mill advice .
I had to finishing this piece because , I had no spare cutter and it was my last piece of MDF.
After my wife's vacuum cleaner stops with cleaning , the smoke was very clear and I was aware of a possible fire. So I thought , .. quickly make a movie, but the smoke was so fierce that I had to open the garage .

When I get back from vacation, I have to move the MM about 3 m to its final place .
Then I will order the MM logos for my serial number and finish the dustcollection system .
From now on , I ‘m also looking for a good tool supplier.

I ‘m very satisfied with this first experience. It gives a good feeling when the piece is finished you have designed.

[PEU]

I would increase the feed rate before blaming the end mill, also helping removing the chips from the cutter helps (suction or blowing them away)

[Gerald D]

Good point Pablo. Also, I do not know what "black MDF" is . . . . . it might be recycled wood & car tyre (rubber) mix . . . . . the material is maybe something that likes to smoke . . . .

[domino11]

Bart,
Do you have any info on this "black" MDF? Looks interesting.

[Barman]

Pablo, maybe you are right but I can’t test it anymore because I have to buy new mills now.
This time I will go to a special shop and ask for “ tungsten - carbide cutters” .
I'm curious about the price ?

Gerald, I know nothing of wood or MDF .
But this is the link of a local dealer where you can buy black MDF.
They also sell:
Green -> moisture resistant MDF
Red -> fire / flame retardant MDF

http://www.beveka.be/mdfzwart.nl.htm#top

[Barman]

After some Googling, I found the following.

Types of MDF or (Medium-Density Fiberboard) :

A standard MDF plate can be identified by the light brown color of the wood. In addition to standard MDF, there are still six other species:

• MDF Plus: Maintains light brown color, but smoother surface;
• MDF MR: Moisture Resistent . This plate has a green color identification;
• MDF FR: Fire Retardent . It has a pink color identification;
• MDF Exterior : MDF for exterior applications. It has a gray color identification;
• MDF Ecologique : MDF with no added formaldehyde. The plate remains light brown as the standard plate.
• MDF FQ: Floor Quality suitable for floors. This plate does not change color;
• MDF Colorcore: This is a coloring substance added to the raw material
That gives the plate a uniform color (gray, black, red, yellow, blue or green).
(black on stock, other colors (red, yellow, blue or green) to order.


http://www.moenshouthandel.be/static...=2997162&lng=0

Click on the picture. I think this cabinet was made in a as I cal it “ black MDF”. Maybe you give it a different name.?

I've ever seen a kitchen that was made in " red-colored “ MDF. It was very beautiful.