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  #91  
Old Mon 12 December 2011, 21:48
baseball43v3r
Just call me: John #96
 
Glendora (California)
United States of America
do you have anything in the outputs menu? none of those should be set if i read the manual correctly right?
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  #92  
Old Tue 13 December 2011, 20:16
JasonC
Just call me: Jason
 
Soldotna,AK
United States of America
On output Signal?. Output #1, enabled yes, port #1, pin number 16 active low yes. I have nothing else at this time for the rest.

Jason
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  #93  
Old Thu 15 December 2011, 15:19
baseball43v3r
Just call me: John #96
 
Glendora (California)
United States of America
Yes! today I got the motors turning under mach3. figured out i didn't have the charge pump enabled in the settings, turned that on a viola, within minutes i had all 4 motors jogging successfully. thanks everyone for your time and patience so far in helping me troubleshoot the problems.

Next I am going to break down and wire everything into the control box and complete the assembly on the electronic portions. after that, onto rail grinding ::groan::
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  #94  
Old Sat 17 December 2011, 04:36
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Glad you got it going !!! Looking forward to the next stage. So do you think it was a combination of issues that was causing your problems? Or do you think it was the resistors that really were the source of the original issue?
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  #95  
Old Sat 17 December 2011, 15:40
baseball43v3r
Just call me: John #96
 
Glendora (California)
United States of America
Hey Mike,

Two part issue. First was the resistor, which wasn't the correct one, and then when a better one was fitted, the charge pump setting wasn't correct. I still have the charge pump disabled while I look into setting it in Mach3, but I'll put it back on eventually.

Thanks!
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  #96  
Old Wed 28 December 2011, 19:14
baseball43v3r
Just call me: John #96
 
Glendora (California)
United States of America
hey all, sorry I've been quiet lately, but here's a small update. I've got the control box mostly wired up, although i couldn't paint it because it's already been powdercoated. I still have to wire in the estops and extra buttons. I've got the rails cut and beveled and I mounted the gantry to make me feel like I've made more progress. next I'm going to start on the y-car and moving this machine into its permanent home in the garage! I only have a couple of pictures, I'll try and take more in the daylight. pictured in the grinding is my brother, who is helping me complete the machine.
IMAG0087 (Mobile).jpg

IMAG0089 (Mobile).jpg

IMAG0091 (Mobile).jpg

IMAG0086 (Mobile).jpg
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  #97  
Old Wed 28 December 2011, 22:18
Kobus_Joubert
Just call me: Kobus #6
 
Riversdale Western Cape
South Africa
Send a message via Yahoo to Kobus_Joubert Send a message via Skype™ to Kobus_Joubert
At least you have a fire truck to put out the fire from that grinder... Did that translate across cultures ??
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  #98  
Old Wed 28 December 2011, 22:49
baseball43v3r
Just call me: John #96
 
Glendora (California)
United States of America
you guys are always so astute when you look at pictures, nothing escapes anybody here haha. and that translated... perfectly
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  #99  
Old Thu 29 December 2011, 05:57
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
You can paint over poweder coat. You just have to rough sand and use an etching primer first. Godd work so far !!!
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  #100  
Old Mon 13 February 2012, 23:46
baseball43v3r
Just call me: John #96
 
Glendora (California)
United States of America
update! so we finally got a new roof on the garage, and I could move the machine and electronics down there. I mounted the rails, and mounted the rack... but funny story about that... I mount the rack on the y axis, but I thought I had mounted it on the wrong side, so I took it off and flipped it to the other side, no big deal right? except, my gantry was backwards so I had to flip it around, and take the rack back off, and mount it to the other side, and after a night of it sitting there, it was no easy task. I've got cable carriers painted and mounted as well, when i get time to not be lazy, I'll post some pictures of them.

I'm currently working on the bushings for the spider. the cheapest I could find online was 11 dollars for 8mm inside diameter bushings, So I'm trying to make my own. I bought a a footlong piece of mild steel, 20 mm in diameter, and since I don't own a lathe, I have to use my angle grinder to cut out 6 half inch long pieces, and then use a bench sander to flatten and bevel the edges. its a tedious process but I'm making progress.

I haven't decided where the electronics panel is going to go on the wall so decisions still have to be made on that. Hopefully I can level the rails this week and mount some electronics soon!
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  #101  
Old Tue 14 February 2012, 05:41
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
John

I sell a set of machined parts for the spider and the idler arm bearing for $100 bucks. Saves a lot of time. I also have stop blocks. http://www.cvsupply.com/servlet/the-MechMate/Categories
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  #102  
Old Fri 02 March 2012, 13:32
baseball43v3r
Just call me: John #96
 
Glendora (California)
United States of America
Hey Mike, ended up ordering those parts from you the other week, they work great!

onto another problem now, I ordered my laser cut parts in '08, 4 years ago. I bought the motors for the machine 6 months ago, but for some reason, I forgot to check my motor mounting plates. I walked out to the garage today to start assembly, and found i had geared motor plates, but I needed the universal ones. I'm not sure how to fix this situation other then finding a local laser cutter to cut me new mounts. Anyone have any suggestions? I bought my kit from jbmclain, and I went through my messages and I didn't see anywhere that i specified geared plates over universal, and i know he sold quite a few kits, so I was wondering if anyone else found themselves in the same predicament?
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  #103  
Old Fri 02 March 2012, 15:26
WTI
Just call me: James
 
Detroit (Michigan)
United States of America
I think MetalHead has some for sale.
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  #104  
Old Thu 08 March 2012, 18:34
baseball43v3r
Just call me: John #96
 
Glendora (California)
United States of America
Well for my laser cut parts, i ended up redrilling holes, and just mounting my motors in the center of the top holes. Seems to be working out so far, but I haven't mounted the z motor. I have a couple assumptions after reading threads that I hope someone could clear up.

1. The distance between rails is insignificant so long as they are parallel, and there is enough room between them for the rollers to roll on.

2. Having the rails vertically square is not hugely important because material will sag with the rails.

Am I right on these two assumptions? attached below is how I attached my motors to my geared motor mounts. Eventually I convert them to geared motors.

IMAG0008 (Mobile).jpg

IMAG0009 (Mobile).jpg
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  #105  
Old Fri 09 March 2012, 04:45
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Are you doing direct drive? I have been busy at work and missed this post. I will trade you those plates for universal plates. Just pay shipping.
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  #106  
Old Fri 09 March 2012, 13:06
baseball43v3r
Just call me: John #96
 
Glendora (California)
United States of America
Hey Mike, for now i'm going to do direct drive, until i can figure out my budget for doing gears, (next big purchase is vectric, yikes). I figure for the moment since my motors work in the mounts, I can use them. The only one I'm worried about its the z motor, I don't plan on doing a gear on that one, but it's not going to fit by just drilling new holes, I have to change the hole of the shaft, and I''m not sure if I want to do that. Any chance I can just trade you the z-axis plate?
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  #107  
Old Fri 09 March 2012, 14:47
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
I sent you a PM
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  #108  
Old Tue 20 March 2012, 21:37
baseball43v3r
Just call me: John #96
 
Glendora (California)
United States of America
ok I'm back in business with a new plate, thanks Mike! getting close to the finish line build wise, I've got the spoilboard on, and motors wired up, last big piece of the puzzle is the router mount.

For those that have the milwaukee 5625, and the router mounter from K2, how did you guys get clearance over the v-wheels?

here are a couple posts of the progress. going to try and make dust tomorrow!


https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B4W...XzdoX1BFUVJCQQ

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B4W...TnFBc3pVRkZsdw

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B4W...WTN5QklOV3MtQQ

Last edited by domino11; Tue 20 March 2012 at 22:08.. Reason: dangit pictures don't work properly
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  #109  
Old Wed 21 March 2012, 04:57
lunaj76
Just call me: Justin #24
 
Littleton, (Colorado)
United States of America
Send a message via Skype™ to lunaj76
http://www.mechmate.com/forums/attac...1&d=1222745939


We just cut it on our chop saw with a carbide blade.

Last edited by domino11; Wed 21 March 2012 at 10:00.. Reason: fixed to show image firectly
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  #110  
Old Wed 21 March 2012, 06:40
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Justin,
EXACTLY what I did. Chop saw in shop - and a little sandpaper to clean up the edges.
Works perfectly.
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  #111  
Old Thu 05 April 2012, 17:25
baseball43v3r
Just call me: John #96
 
Glendora (California)
United States of America
Smile

I have cuts! here are some pictures, although they are with my phone, I'll try and get better pictures soon.

A few years ago, I started on a quest to build a mechmate, and at 22, I finally have one! I'm pretty excited, with lots more to come. Some specs:

52X100 cutting area, with room for 4th axis on one end.
Keling motors, PMDX BOB, and Antek PS.
Milwaukee 5625 router

I don't have everything fully complete, I still need to wire up my estops, and I don't have stops on there yet, but as I have only cut small stuff on the middle of the table, I haven't been to worried yet, but they are coming shortly. Thanks so much for your guys continued support and advice!

IMAG0029 (Mobile).jpg

IMAG0030 (Mobile).jpg

IMAG0026 (Mobile).jpg

IMAG0027 (Mobile).jpg

IMAG0028 (Mobile).jpg
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  #112  
Old Thu 05 April 2012, 18:12
timberlinemd
Just call me: Steve #66
 
Arizona
United States of America
Congrats! Another number!
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  #113  
Old Thu 05 April 2012, 20:00
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Congrats You get #96 - Great build !! Now get to work !!!
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  #114  
Old Thu 05 April 2012, 21:04
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
Congrats John! Looks good!
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  #115  
Old Fri 06 April 2012, 06:34
jhiggins7
Just call me: John #26
 
Hebron, Ohio
United States of America
Builder's Log Update

Hey John, great to see that you have completed your MechMate and earned Serial #96. Nice job.

Here is the Updated Builder's Log.

Please review your Builder's Log entry and let me know any changes you want to make.

For your start date, I used the September 2011 "restart" date since it looks like that's when you really got into the build. The idea of the start and end dates are just to give prospective builders an idea of how long it takes people to build one of these. Of course, feel free to modify your start date...just let me know and I'll make the change.
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  #116  
Old Fri 27 April 2012, 18:25
baseball43v3r
Just call me: John #96
 
Glendora (California)
United States of America
hey all, thanks for the encouragement! I've been a little slow lately on any kind of updates or projects due to school, but a little progress has been made and small things have been cut.

Question to the group. I have my spoilboard mounted to the machine, and its glued down using epoxy, and it seems alright in the middle, but the edges of my table, where i clamp big pieces, tend to flip up about 1/16 or 1/8 of an inch, so much so that I can't do detail work at the ends. Any ideas on how to correct this? insert wood shims along the edge an glue those in? not sure how to counteract this, and its holding back a full table surface, (as i don't want to use clamps when i surface the table) so any advice would be appreciated.
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  #117  
Old Fri 27 April 2012, 21:36
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
Did you surface your spoilboard?
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  #118  
Old Fri 27 April 2012, 23:26
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
When you say "big pieces", we must realise that some "pieces" will be stronger than the table. When clamped, the table will move to conform with the piece. The only thing we can do is to make sure our table is thick/strong and very firmly bolted to the steel cross supports. Are your bolts loose? (We had problems with the bolt heads starting to break through the support board).
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  #119  
Old Sat 28 April 2012, 08:32
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Can you post some pictures?
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  #120  
Old Sat 28 April 2012, 21:32
baseball43v3r
Just call me: John #96
 
Glendora (California)
United States of America
yea, I probably should have explained myself a little better. here is a picture of the corner of the spoilboard on top of the support board. the edge is like that all the way around for the most part. I've already taken the spoilboard off, and reglued it down, using twice the amount of glue I used the first time, and I still got the same thing. any ideas?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/mwrog7kyjk...2020.20.07.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/mwrog7kyjk...2020.20.07.jpg



ps.. hmm I can't link an image using the IMG tag, I have to use the URL tag, any reason why?

Last edited by baseball43v3r; Sat 28 April 2012 at 21:33.. Reason: add image
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