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  #91  
Old Sun 12 July 2009, 18:27
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
Sounds like a messy pain the the rear.
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  #92  
Old Sun 12 July 2009, 18:38
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
During these operations, I actually removed the dust collection and router blast shield. The downdraft of the router keeps the cut area very clear.
For dust collection, I installed a box fan and filter in one door in the shop, and leave the main bay door open. This way I suck most of the mess one direction. Clean up is with a snow shovel and vac at the end of the session.

...respirator a really good sealing goggles for me and anyone else in the room.

(reminder, some types of EPS and Poly.based foams can give off very bad fumes when cut, use the appropriate organic filter and cartriges in your Personal protection everyone) My little safety note for the day.
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  #93  
Old Sun 12 July 2009, 19:43
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
I was thinking an exhaust diverter like this one
http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showt...&postcount=158
would work better so that the dust extractor could suck up as much as possible? Maybe that doesnt work that well in practice though, as Gerald mentioned the dust foot getting in the way.

Sean,
Did you make one like in the above link or use a purchased one? Just curious.

Last edited by domino11; Sun 12 July 2009 at 19:49..
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  #94  
Old Sun 12 July 2009, 19:58
myozman
Just call me: Mike #16
 
Demotte,IN
United States of America
You could just rub lotion on yourself and stand next to the machine (Tar & Feather dust collection)

That stuff gets everywhere and sticks to everything. When your cleaning up, the static makes it stick real good
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  #95  
Old Mon 13 July 2009, 06:29
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Mike,
Funny you asked! The other day I was walking to the shop during a later afternoon rainstorm. 10 minutes later, I looked like the michellan man!
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  #96  
Old Mon 13 July 2009, 07:21
hennie
Just call me: Hennie #23
 
Roodepoort JHB
South Africa
Sean show us what you are making !
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  #97  
Old Mon 13 July 2009, 07:26
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
Hennie,

Not to speak for Sean but it is all top secret stuff. I have been to the shop but he won't allow any photos but the work he is doing is really nice. Nice detail.
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  #98  
Old Mon 13 July 2009, 07:28
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Yes MM fans, the stuff I am currently working on is under NDA and can't be shown. Sorry, I promise after the project is released to the public, I will post all the photos. I have documented the process fairly well.

Sean
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  #99  
Old Mon 13 July 2009, 07:36
bradyaero
Just call me: Greg #19
 
Smiths Falls, Ontario
Canada
Quote:
Originally Posted by smreish View Post
Greg,
I am using RhinoCam as well.
I have found that I do a region that removes enough foam for clearance for the final tool bit. Then, Only create one parallel finishing pass w/ a high rate of step over....like 25%. Saves A LOT of cutting time. On the average I am shaving a hour off the cutting of each face. Currently I am cutting either 2 faces / 180 degrees out or 4 faces / 90 degrees apart.

I like your dust covers.

I have installed scrapers on the rail just infront of you dust box out of UHMW that "scrub" the rails like a cow pusher on a train. Works well enough so far.

Sean
Is it a Bird, a Plane or a Super MM???

Your cutting strategy makes total sense. Getting rid of the horizontal roughing will cut the snowflakes down by at least 50%.

I am slotting my dust covers so that they will act like a scrapers. I'll glue some felt on the insides to make sure that as little as possible makes it in.

Also I'm going to try a small clip to hold them on instead of having to unbolt them to clean the wheels.

I'm also looking for some 6" x 1/2" two or four flute ball nose end mills with 3-4" cutting length. Do you know of any tooling company that sells these?

Thanks, Greg
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  #100  
Old Mon 13 July 2009, 07:43
bradyaero
Just call me: Greg #19
 
Smiths Falls, Ontario
Canada
Quote:
Originally Posted by domino11 View Post
I was thinking an exhaust diverter like this one
http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showt...&postcount=158
would work better so that the dust extractor could suck up as much as possible? Maybe that doesnt work that well in practice though, as Gerald mentioned the dust foot getting in the way.

Sean,
Did you make one like in the above link or use a purchased one? Just curious.
Hi Heath,

Interesting concept. What would be even more interesting would be to use this and bring the vacuum pipe down onto the motor. (if you could reverse the built in fan). But still something would still have to suck up the chips. Interesting to think about!
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  #101  
Old Mon 13 July 2009, 09:06
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Greg, are you telling us that you don't use an exhaust diverter? That is unforgiveable! I thought everyone did that as standard - once you have tried one, you will think that anyone who doesn't use one is nuts!
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  #102  
Old Mon 13 July 2009, 10:30
bradyaero
Just call me: Greg #19
 
Smiths Falls, Ontario
Canada
Every cutting day is like Christmas around here Gerald

I had no idea
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  #103  
Old Mon 13 July 2009, 14:17
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
Quote:
Originally Posted by smreish View Post
During these operations, I actually removed the dust collection and router blast shield. The downdraft of the router keeps the cut area very clear.
Sean removes his for foam though?
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  #104  
Old Mon 13 July 2009, 21:00
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
This shows my lack of experience in cutting foam
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  #105  
Old Sat 01 August 2009, 05:06
bradyaero
Just call me: Greg #19
 
Smiths Falls, Ontario
Canada
I installed a touch-block into my table for zeroing tools. I used pin 13 on my PDMX and ran a wire to it under my table. The grounding through my table was fine so no other wire was required.

I then had some fun in mach 3. I adjusted my 'All Ref Home' button to zero x, y, z (to the top) and then zero the z with tool to the table. This means on startup I am ready to go. I made a Change Tool button to move the router to the end of the table where it is easy to change tools and I made a Zero Tool button for changing a tool while in the middle of a job. Works really well so far. Mach3 scripting is pretty easy once you get the hang of their button and dro id's.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg touchblock.jpg (56.0 KB, 1327 views)
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  #106  
Old Fri 02 October 2009, 13:36
digger
Just call me: Milosh #113
 
Toronto
Canada
Quote:
Originally Posted by domino11 View Post

Buzz, Greg,
Maybe we can start the OMMBG, Ontario Mechmate Builders Group? Catchy name no?
Heath,
count on me. I am in Toronto, DVP & 401. Would like to meet you guys.

Milosh

Last edited by digger; Fri 02 October 2009 at 13:45..
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  #107  
Old Sun 04 October 2009, 17:04
sprayhead
Just call me: Francis
 
sydney
Australia
Hi Heath

got a question in regards to the X axis Racks.

Did you have foam building up on them? I suppose not as much since they are "far away" from the job and also upside down.

thanks!
francis
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  #108  
Old Sun 04 October 2009, 20:39
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
Francis,
This thread is for Greg's machine, mine is still under progress. Well actually on hold until my shop is complete.
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  #109  
Old Sun 04 October 2009, 22:15
sprayhead
Just call me: Francis
 
sydney
Australia
Red face

Quote:
Originally Posted by domino11 View Post
Francis,
This thread is for Greg's machine, mine is still under progress. Well actually on hold until my shop is complete.

Ooops.

Greg, I'm passing the question to you now.

thanks!
francis
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  #110  
Old Wed 07 October 2009, 12:58
bradyaero
Just call me: Greg #19
 
Smiths Falls, Ontario
Canada
Hi sprayhead,

Yup the foam went everywhere. Ends up as black scale building up on the x-rails and wheels the most. The y-axis gets dirty too, but not half as bad as the x-axis.

The best way to remove the stuff was Sunlight Dish Soap and water on a cloth. (Better than scotchbright pads or sanding)
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  #111  
Old Thu 08 October 2009, 01:11
sprayhead
Just call me: Francis
 
sydney
Australia
Thanks Brad

I really thought that the X racks were not going to be very affected. Please mate if you cut foam like that again could you post a picture of the racks, thanks. Nice cuts!

francis
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  #112  
Old Mon 26 October 2009, 10:40
bradyaero
Just call me: Greg #19
 
Smiths Falls, Ontario
Canada
Hi Sprayhead,

Talking with domino11, we both believe that a big part of the dirty rail issue is can be solved with an exhaust diverter on my router. I'll be testing this out shortly and report back the results.

Of course a liquid cooled spindle would probably help if someone would like to donate one
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  #113  
Old Tue 27 October 2009, 17:06
digger
Just call me: Milosh #113
 
Toronto
Canada
Greg,

what do you think about 'grounding' rails. I know it sounds silly but my logic is that charged particles of foam needs to be discharged somehow. When they touch rail they will fall off because there is nothing to hold them - they loose their charge. I believe you've noticed some rubber 'tape' attached to the body of a car touching the ground - against static electricity. I think that applying same logic, probably you may solve the problem.

Just my 2 cents.
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  #114  
Old Tue 27 October 2009, 18:05
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
It would be easy to test. Just atatch a clip lead for a test to ground.
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  #115  
Old Fri 30 October 2009, 09:12
bradyaero
Just call me: Greg #19
 
Smiths Falls, Ontario
Canada
It's worth a try; next cuts I'll try it out, keeping in mind that it is literally snowing when the foam is being cut!
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  #116  
Old Fri 30 October 2009, 10:53
digger
Just call me: Milosh #113
 
Toronto
Canada
Greg,

winter is coming and we need a Santa.

Show as a photo how it looks like.

Friend of mine was working in entertaiment industry - video games. Once he told me that they had a problem with static in one of their game room. Carpet was so charged that when people are touching a chassy of the game, game got crazy. They found solution that every morning before opening, they spray carpet with destilated water mixed with detergent with anti static additive. Is it something like that feasable for you? What I mean not to spray carpet of flor, but foam aroung the cut or something...

Last edited by digger; Fri 30 October 2009 at 11:05..
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  #117  
Old Fri 30 October 2009, 12:07
hennie
Just call me: Hennie #23
 
Roodepoort JHB
South Africa
That is the reason why one can get under your MM, it is to clean it.I always have a 2 L bottle of water that I spray onto the floor help with static,helps with dust when you walk in your shop and makes it easy to sweep the floor.
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  #118  
Old Thu 08 September 2011, 09:42
bradyaero
Just call me: Greg #19
 
Smiths Falls, Ontario
Canada
Arcade Fun

Here's how to have some arcade fun with your Mechmate:

1. Whip it up into a 2d file and cut it.





2. Glue it together



3. Paint, trim and sticker it....et voila! Oh ya... don't forget the computer!



That was easy, on to the next project!
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  #119  
Old Thu 08 September 2011, 14:05
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
Hey Greg,
That looks really cool! Did you do the whole cabinet or was that for a customer?
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  #120  
Old Thu 08 September 2011, 15:34
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
Very cool. I am interested in hearing more also.
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