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  #61  
Old Mon 31 August 2009, 13:57
Barman
Just call me: Bart #36
 
antwerpen
Belgium
This weekend I discovered a major mistake .
While I was reading “the basic cutting tutorial “ from Doug Ford (which is certainly very
useful – thanks for it ), trying to set the machine coordinates to zero, I discovered that I have put the gantry in the wrong way.
Looking at drawing 10 00 000 I noticed that my motor was on the wrong side of the 0,0 corner. ( see picture ).
It struck me that I could not use the entire work surface.
The first 10 cm could not be used by the router .
How could this happen?
When I installed the cable chains I looked at drawing 10 60 100 "cable chain assemblies” to mount them . Apparently this was the rear view.

Today I disconnected all the cables back and turned the gantry.
Tomorrow I will change the “X-cable chain shelf “ to the other side and extend all the cables and connect them back .

Just to be sure:
Looking at drawing 10 10 300 - the ( 0,0 corner ) is the ( left - below corner ) if you look above the table . That is the “home position”.

I also discovered that my dust collection is not strong enough (0,5 hp) which is much too weak .
So for the moment I use my wife's vacuum cleaner.

And the “back mdf “ as I called it , is the same as what Hennie uses “ Valchromat “ .
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File Type: jpg rezisz.jpg (69.0 KB, 1454 views)
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  #62  
Old Mon 31 August 2009, 21:05
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Sorry that we did not see your problem from the photo on 17 March.

On drawing 10 60 100 A, it is simply views of the cable chain assemblies. (But you can see the offset direction of the table cross supports 10 10 302 D). See the thread Cable chain location & orientation
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  #63  
Old Thu 03 September 2009, 13:29
Barman
Just call me: Bart #36
 
antwerpen
Belgium
Gantry is turned, cables back connected and no errors .
Did some drawingtests with a pencil.

Mmmm ... firts time was better .

Time to set the "Y-axis square to the X-axis” .

Is it advisable to :

- first glue the spoilboard on the supportboard
- then surfacing the spoilboard
- and then set the Y-axis square to the X-axis .


Or can the squaring be done on the support board without first surfacing
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  #64  
Old Thu 03 September 2009, 13:47
Alan_c
Just call me: Alan (#11)
 
Cape Town (Western Cape)
South Africa
Send a message via Skype™ to Alan_c
Squaring can be done before surfacing, it should not make any difference. On my machine my support beams were quite far out from dead straight so I surfaced the support board first (making sure the bolts were sunk low enough), then glued on the spoilboard and surfaced it again. Doing it this way only took one pass to true up the spoilboard (but 4 passes on the support board).
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  #65  
Old Thu 03 September 2009, 14:06
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
The squaring XY is completely independent of the flat surfacing - it does not matter which one you do first.
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  #66  
Old Thu 03 September 2009, 14:33
Barman
Just call me: Bart #36
 
antwerpen
Belgium
Thanx
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  #67  
Old Sun 04 October 2009, 13:00
Barman
Just call me: Bart #36
 
antwerpen
Belgium
I've finally finished the job.
It cost me some time but it worked.

The HBM 200 - 2 hp - dust collector works perfectly for me , better than all my previous setups.

The s-error was 3,1 mm so the 0,9 mm extra shims did their job fine.
The alignment is now , as good as perfect.

Surfacing the board was a different story.
I could not adjust the routerspeed of the” Kinzo”.
Rotating a cutter of 18 mm at a speed of 30,000 rpm seemed me not so wise.
Luckily I found a speedcontroler of 600 w to perform this task.

The first time , I surfaced the board in the x-direction.
It took me about 2 hours time with the cutter of 18 mm .
The first 20 minutes went fine but then , there appeared grooves of unequal depth .

The second time , I surfaced the board in the y-direction.
I milled about 15minutes and then waited about 1 hours and so on .
The result is better but not perfect and not the way it should be .

So , I think my latest investment will be a new spindle.
My preference goes to the already discussed "chinese water-cooled spindls ".
Especially praised for their silence (my neighbors think I've made already enough noise).

I ‘m thinking of a 2,2 kw because it has a collet ER20 .
The 1,5 kw has only a collet ER11 .
But , I'm not sure which is the best choice the :1,5 kw or 2,2 kw.
What I want to make afterwards are cabinet doors and closets.

http://cgi.ebay.de/a-water-cooled-sp...4.c0.m14.l1262

http://cgi.ebay.de/a-water-cooled-sp...d=p3286.c0.m14
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  #68  
Old Sun 04 October 2009, 13:09
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Pragtige werk - mooi gedaan!
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  #69  
Old Sun 04 October 2009, 13:47
Barman
Just call me: Bart #36
 
antwerpen
Belgium
Dit was echt onmogelijk geweest zonder al jullie hulp.
Dank U Gerald
and thanks to everyone .
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  #70  
Old Sun 04 October 2009, 13:54
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Yep, as Gerald puts it, nicely done.
I’ll add; patience pays. One thing I know to well….
Congrad Bart, a year in the making…now a happy man satisfied of his accomplishment…
Let’s all raise and make a toast with one of those nice begum bear
Robert
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  #71  
Old Sun 04 October 2009, 14:22
Barman
Just call me: Bart #36
 
antwerpen
Belgium
Hey Robert,

You can be sure that I am a proud owner of a mechmate 36.
And each time I've finished a particular job, I always toasted with my favorite beer .
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  #72  
Old Sun 04 October 2009, 14:35
jhiggins7
Just call me: John #26
 
Hebron, Ohio
United States of America
Bart,

Congratulations on completing your build and on Serial #36.

The Updated Builder's Log is here.

Please review the entry and let me know if you want any changes.
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  #73  
Old Sun 04 October 2009, 14:48
Barman
Just call me: Bart #36
 
antwerpen
Belgium
Hey John,

Thanxs , it's perfect for me .
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  #74  
Old Sun 04 October 2009, 20:54
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
Congratulations Bart!
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  #75  
Old Sun 04 October 2009, 22:45
Kobus_Joubert
Just call me: Kobus #6
 
Riversdale Western Cape
South Africa
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Well done ..nog een piljse ?
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  #76  
Old Tue 06 October 2009, 12:57
BartDeckers
Just call me: Bart
 
Antwerpen
Belgium
Bart,

I have sent you a PM regarding the offer from Lasertek. However I cannot see the message in my "sent messages" box.

If you did not receive it please let me know.

Bart
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  #77  
Old Tue 06 October 2009, 20:00
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Bart,
Congratulations. That big blue colour looks good in an any country! Don't forget to show us a lot of pictures of dust soon.

Sean
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  #78  
Old Wed 07 October 2009, 02:35
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
Bart,

Congratulations. Machine looks great. How about a close up of your dust foot.
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  #79  
Old Wed 07 October 2009, 08:41
Barman
Just call me: Bart #36
 
antwerpen
Belgium
This is like a dream that come true for me .
It was only possible through this forum and the dedication of all those people.
Thanks to everyone.

Here are some pics of my dustfoot.
I chose a fixed foot regardless of the z-axis.
Most of the ideas are from this forum that I have joined and adjusted a little bit.


As you can see I added an extra bracket, on which I've screwed a clamp .
The clamp must hold the tube of 100mm .
The idea of the clamp is based on “Wooden Handscrew Clamp “.
http://www.justclamps.com/Graphics/0...hand_clamp.jpg


It works great for me, until I will buy a new spindle.
Afterwards, I will make a new dustfoot based on the same principe but closed at the end .
The same model as yours, Nils.
Because , I noticed there was much dust at the end of table ( x – direction )during surfacing .
Attached Images
File Type: jpg P1020077.jpg (55.0 KB, 1137 views)
File Type: jpg P1020078.jpg (57.5 KB, 1135 views)
File Type: jpg P1020079.jpg (57.0 KB, 1133 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN0286.jpg (167.4 KB, 1137 views)
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  #80  
Old Wed 07 October 2009, 15:50
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
Bart,

I don't think you need the skirt.
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  #81  
Old Wed 07 October 2009, 16:05
myozman
Just call me: Mike #16
 
Demotte,IN
United States of America
Bart,

Nice looking machine, Have fun making dust.
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  #82  
Old Thu 08 October 2009, 12:12
Barman
Just call me: Bart #36
 
antwerpen
Belgium
Nils,

At this time the skirt comes in handy.
When I remove the front piece , dust flies around .
Currently , it stay this way .
Afterwards , I make one like yours.
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  #83  
Old Fri 16 October 2009, 03:07
BartDeckers
Just call me: Bart
 
Antwerpen
Belgium
Hi Bart,

Can you let me know were you bought your Lapp cable (you mention a local store )

Thanks,

Bart
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  #84  
Old Fri 16 October 2009, 15:18
Barman
Just call me: Bart #36
 
antwerpen
Belgium
Bart ,

Breva Antwerpen
Noorderlaan 31
Tel 03/540.02.90

Is the place to be

Bart
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  #85  
Old Sun 29 November 2009, 06:36
Barman
Just call me: Bart #36
 
antwerpen
Belgium
First Signs

Here are some signs I made.
A simple start to begin with.

1 ° pic: 6x signs for people who went on retirement.
2 ° pic: 2x birthday plate.
3 ° pic: some puzzles.
4 ° pic: a doorsign .

All made of MDF .
For the signs I used a V-bit 90° and a feedrate of 600 mm/min or 10 mm/sec.

I had to reduce the feedrate from 1500mm/min to 600 mm/min, because the machine was making too heavy movements , in my opinion.
Afterwards I have decreased the acceleration of the X-Y- Z axis from 1300 to 500 (I think this is better)

What is an acceptable feedrate for making such signs with a V-Bit D= 19mm 90° ?

Thanks
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Pension.jpg (64.4 KB, 842 views)
File Type: jpg Geboorteplaatjes.jpg (75.2 KB, 842 views)
File Type: jpg Puzzels.jpg (60.2 KB, 850 views)
File Type: jpg Raphael.jpg (43.5 KB, 846 views)
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  #86  
Old Sun 29 November 2009, 10:46
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Nice work Bart!

We do cut such signs at around 1500 mm/min and the machine does shake around a lot. We only reduce the speed if the quality of cutting gets bad. (If you reduce the speed too much, the cutter leaves burn marks)
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  #87  
Old Sun 29 November 2009, 11:53
Barman
Just call me: Bart #36
 
antwerpen
Belgium
Thanks Gerald ,

I was a bit afraid that I would damage the shafts of the motors with the feedrate of 1500 mm/min and all that shaking .
But now I know that it's alright .
A feedrate of 1500 mm/min will be the standart .
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  #88  
Old Thu 15 April 2010, 09:16
Sikus
Just call me: Sikus
 
Amsterdam
Netherlands
“ kitchen table"

Hello Bart,

Could you please give me a draw of the the conections you have made with this Mach 3 card? I am new in this adventure and looking at the pictures there are many things I dont know,
I live in Amsterdam and I am planing to use the same components as you, the box looks great man, congratulations.
Thanks very much
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  #89  
Old Sun 18 April 2010, 02:47
Barman
Just call me: Bart #36
 
antwerpen
Belgium
He ,

The only plan I have is drawn by hand.
To make a input “ high” : just make a connection between the + 24V and desired input.

If you download the manual from the link you have a short but good tutorial about this BOB in dutch .

http://www.leeuwinga.nl/office_tekst...ach32dbob2.pdf

Good luck
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File Type: pdf img107.pdf (49.4 KB, 101 views)
File Type: pdf img108.pdf (21.2 KB, 53 views)
File Type: pdf img109.pdf (50.5 KB, 46 views)
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  #90  
Old Wed 17 November 2010, 00:43
Tailgunner
Just call me: Tailgunner
 
West-Vlaanderen
Belgium
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barman View Post
MechMate is painted and back assembled.

I know bad points for me.
The RAL is 5021 instead of 5010.
Originally , I bought these paint for my outside metal stair , several years ago .
But the color was not right for my wife ...

I painted everything with a paint role.
It took me about 2 weeks.
Each day approximately 2 hours painting. I have 2 layers established.
Only the Y-car, I tried spraying with a cheap spray gun from a local store.
This was a big mistake . The quality was bad and I still have to clean my garage.

Further I had a long wait for the “hold down shaft” and the “bearing support base”.
But now I have an extra set , maybe for later.
I only need to weld it on the spider plate .

Also I decided to buy 4 x PK 296AE-SG7.2 .
So, I have already bought the 4 x pinions : module 1 – Z = 36
What size of square tubing did you use for the 'cross angle brace-cut' wich are visible in the picture on the right (10 10 304 S A).
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