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  #31  
Old Thu 05 April 2012, 04:37
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Gantry Making

John and Gerald,

From what I can see the distance is the center to center distance of the top of the V of the rail on X plus 16mm plus the distance of the spacers (washers). This is what I can find in the drawings.

Gerald, since washers vary in size the shims for the wheels will most likely need machined to hold an accurate tolerance to eliminate side to side movement when in traverse and prevent side wear on the V of the grooved wheels. Is this correct? I am assuming the 17mm that I can not find is the distance of the shim material (washers as shown on the print) assuming 8.5mm per side?
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  #32  
Old Thu 05 April 2012, 05:05
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Subtract the thickness of part 1020452 from that 8.5, and that leaves you less than 2.5mm to build up with shim washers.

The 2.5mm is an allowance for welding the gantry slightly out of square . . . . the shim washers fix all of that.

You can buy thin washers, or even grind down thick washers.

See this thread: Setting the Y-axis square to the X-axis
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  #33  
Old Thu 05 April 2012, 05:27
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Pete, I hadn't fully read this thread, and assumed your rails were angle iron stock with cut and ground tips. Now it seems you have those ready made rails for bolting to the angle iron. If the latter is the case, then ignore the dimensions I gave you.
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  #34  
Old Thu 05 April 2012, 05:32
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
If your tubes are short, your wiggle room between the gantry and the rails is limited. If the tubes are long, the pinion gear need to overhang the motor shaft a lot to reach the rack. Don't forget about the thickness of a pair of 1020452 plates.
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  #35  
Old Thu 05 April 2012, 15:10
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Gerald,
Yes the rails are linear V rails. They are bolted on similar to 10 10 220A but the linear rails have threaded M6 holes.

Looking at 10 10 300 the gauge rod is Y+461. If I take the 461 and add 12.7(0.5" the combined thickness of the longitudinal rails) This leads me to believe that the Outside to Outside distance is Y+473.7mm. I can subtract the current measured distance 1685.925mm - 473.7mm and my new Y is 1212.225mm(47.73"). So the U shape C-channel moved my original Y in 6.98mm(0.275").

Since 10 20 440S (the tubing) is Y+500. I can use the new calculated Y to calculate the correct length. It being 1717.225mm. Does this sound correct?
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  #36  
Old Fri 06 April 2012, 00:21
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
you can round off the 0.225mm
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  #37  
Old Fri 06 April 2012, 01:09
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Sorry Pete, I've gotten myself too deep into the minutae here, but I did give you the basic things to watch out for.

This should be full scale: Sketch.pdf
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  #38  
Old Fri 06 April 2012, 06:13
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Thanks Gerald, Ken and John. I have drawn up with the spur gear and motor to make sure the distance was correct. Thanks for the help.
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  #39  
Old Sun 08 April 2012, 19:45
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Gantry Welded

Gantry is welded. Final assembly of it starts now.
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  #40  
Old Sat 14 April 2012, 16:33
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Gantry had a little twist but was straightened easily with 8" C clamps. Unit is square to the X. I did not drill the tubing yet as a precaution so I was sure the X, Y relationship would be maintained. Well Would of, could of, should of. I will proceed the same as I did on the X. Used mason cord and spray paint to set line and then transfer punch the holes from the rails. At least I do not have to drill and tap M5 at every bolt down place to level the Y rails as I did the X. Welded up Y-car today. Moving forward.
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  #41  
Old Mon 16 April 2012, 17:26
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Gerald D,
I have myself is a self induced problem. I purchased laser cut parts and now I managed to lose only one. Herein lies my problem. When I joined the forum, the pdf prints were free but the dxf were not available, I know because I asked. I know the prints are available for a charge but I already have the pdfs. Not long after I elected to purchase the laser cut parts because it was cheaper than having the old company I worked for to cut and form them because it would of require a setup and processing charge. When you made the pdf of the drawings was it a print conversion from the drawing program that you were using. The reason I am asking is I can convert the pdf to dxf and scale it to the dimension on the pdf. This will only be accurate if the pdf was generated from the drawing program and not from an image. This way I can have it made on the cnc mill where I work.
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  #42  
Old Mon 16 April 2012, 18:56
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
What part do you need? I can hook you up.
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  #43  
Old Mon 16 April 2012, 19:40
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
M1 30 332
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  #44  
Old Tue 17 April 2012, 19:19
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Ok, I converted and scaled the drawing. Ran it off on a cnc mill. Fits good as far as I can tell.
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  #45  
Old Tue 17 April 2012, 21:13
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
OK - well if you still need the part I have one I can send you.
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  #46  
Old Wed 18 April 2012, 16:01
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Thanks Mike, the offer is greatly appreciated
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  #47  
Old Sat 21 April 2012, 16:31
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Here is a tip for anyone mounting the rack on the x and y. I have used probably every double sided tape that 3m makes and they make some good high quality stuff but if you want to save money and have a very high bond, here is a tip that a hvac tech told me when we were installing duct board. Apply an even coat of an heavy duty spray adhesive (ie 3m Super 77, Misty, Sure Stick) and apply your tape. This works with Nashua tape as well as double sided tape. In this case I cleaned and prepped the metal to ensure good contact surface. Using a clean flux brush apply adhesive (spray adhesive on bristles of brush, not directly on steel, the over-spray is horrible to remove) to the back of the rack. Let set one minute and apply permanent foam double sided tape. Brush adhesive on the rail. Now here is the tricky part, you will only have seconds to position the rack. Once the two adhesives make contact you have better be close. To give you an idea, directly after I had my rack applied and positioned, I could pick up the entire rail by the rack before I put the fasteners in. I did not do this on the one side and I can tell you that the rack can be peeled back of with not much trouble, if you use spray adhesive, you can separate the two but you will have to do prep to remove the foam that ripped in half.
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  #48  
Old Sun 22 April 2012, 06:16
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
I would advise against foamed double sided tape...
Not only I have very bad experience of them falling apart as they turn brittle overtime.
If I remember correctly, Gerald did advise against certain type of foamed double sided tape.
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  #49  
Old Sun 22 April 2012, 07:28
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
It all depends on the type and brand. I am using the same model of 3m that we use at work that we order from mcmaster carr. It is a permanent foam for metal applications. We use it all the machines there and it generally removes removes the paint from the machines when it is removed. Most of them are exposed to coolant and oils. I do agree that you can purchase a lesser quality foam tape but you do not need automotive grade tape either for the application.
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  #50  
Old Tue 24 April 2012, 09:43
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Question on 10 60 315 and 10 60 325?

Should not the height of the mounting plate be extended to match the loop height to match the post by Gerald in thread http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=498
The loop height is 9.25 inches and if you mount it on top of the 10 60 325 the placement of the bolt holes is at the bottom radius of the 2x4 tubing. So wouldn't it be better to to extend the mounting height of 10 60 315 or place an offset in 10 60 325? This would add an additional bend process and recalculation of the blank length for that part.
I am using the Igus McMaster Carr 4516T22

Last edited by pblackburn; Tue 24 April 2012 at 09:45.. Reason: Forgot information
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  #51  
Old Tue 24 April 2012, 09:55
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
You don't want 315 to be mounted too low on the gantry because it will protrude too much into your workspace under your gantry.

325 can simply be creased to tip its nose up at an angle, and that lifts the first link of the e-chain quite a lot.
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  #52  
Old Tue 24 April 2012, 17:01
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Gerald,
I noticed on 10 00 000 that it shows an offset in 10 60 325 but the profile does not have that. Since I elected to use the Igus with the 9.5 loop height I will have to raise up the 10 60 315 1" with cylindrical columns and longer bolts. This way the track will not be lower than the gantry tubing. I only thought it was interesting it was shown in one area but not the other and would be most consistant when looking at the drawings. Maybe only a note would be needed on the drawing to adjust the blank length for 10 60 315 to match the offset that would be needed for the cable chain you select.
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  #53  
Old Tue 24 April 2012, 23:12
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Do you understand what I meant by "creased to tip its nose up at an angle"?
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  #54  
Old Wed 25 April 2012, 15:32
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Sorry for the wait in reply, I just got off work. No Sir, I do not follow your meaning of your post.
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  #55  
Old Wed 25 April 2012, 19:34
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Gerald, do you mean to bend the mounting area for the chain up to create a different angle of mount to raise the chain and increase the loop height?
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  #56  
Old Wed 25 April 2012, 23:12
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Bend up at the red line

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  #57  
Old Thu 26 April 2012, 16:26
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Gotcha and thank you
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  #58  
Old Wed 02 May 2012, 18:50
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Electronics ordered (they were backordered), motors and power supply received. A little mechanical work left. Having router mount machined, still need gas spring but need to wait and see final assembled weight. Machined pinions tonight and motor mounts. Most likely paint prep the rest of the week.

Has anyone used nylon bolts for mounting the board surface? I was reading some of the fire stories and wondered "why not use nylon bolts?"
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  #59  
Old Thu 03 May 2012, 04:39
alan254
Just call me: Al #95
 
mystic ct
United States of America
Hi Pete,

Have two new gas shocks I will sell they are Macmaster –carr
#9416K181 20 lb
and
#9416K361 15 lb
they are new and never used
$10 each
Had to go to 30 lb for my spindle,

Al drouin
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  #60  
Old Thu 03 May 2012, 15:53
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Al,

Thanks for the offer but my spring also will be over 20lb. Most likely a 30 but not sure yet.
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