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  #181  
Old Sat 08 May 2010, 06:30
AuS MaDDoG
Just call me: Tony #71
 
Brisbane
Australia
Cool!!
Thanks Ross

Cheers
Tony.
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  #182  
Old Sat 08 May 2010, 10:58
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Quote:
Originally Posted by AuS MaDDoG View Post
. . Sorry to hear about the hassles you have had with the squarness of your table . . .
We screw the support board to the cross-beams before welding them to the sides. The board becomes a huge welding jig.
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  #183  
Old Sat 08 May 2010, 17:57
Surfcnc
Just call me: Ross #74
 
Queensland
Australia
Hi Gerald

After using my support board as the squaring jig I see exactly what you mean there.

Regards
Ross
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  #184  
Old Sun 09 May 2010, 02:39
Surfcnc
Just call me: Ross #74
 
Queensland
Australia
White Spot

Seems I got some white spot on the table overnight. Must be a spray for that !

I used some of my crystal clear two part surfboard epoxy with some white pigment mixed in to make it very obvious the cup head bolts where below - hence the white spot.

IMG_0828.jpg IMG_0829.jpg

Regards
Ross
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  #185  
Old Tue 11 May 2010, 01:40
Surfcnc
Just call me: Ross #74
 
Queensland
Australia
Cutting Rails

Rails were cut today - all went well.
I will do one more pass over the cut surface with a thick grinding disk before the V gets ground.

Used the 1mm Pfred disks I had and it took one each for the Y rails and one and a half for each X rails.
IMG_0830.jpg IMG_0838.jpg

Regards
Ross
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  #186  
Old Wed 12 May 2010, 02:14
Surfcnc
Just call me: Ross #74
 
Queensland
Australia
Rail Suggestion

My "quick tidy up" did not turn out that way today.

As I passed the grinding disk over the rail to take off the last little bit, I realised that the disk was wearing and causing some variation in the rail height.
After rotating through three grinding disks then adjusting for wear and starting again, I thought there must be a better way - and there was, much better.

Somewhere on the forum I read that instead of grinding the V on the rails, the poster used a sanding disk and a grinding disk as a backing pad.
My goodness did that work !!! With a relatively coarse 36 grit sanding disk, the cutting jig effortlessly produced a perfectly flat and smooth finish, Eureka.
As I sanded the rail again I could actually tell where the previous grinding disks were wearing judging by the way the rail threw off the sparks.
The second photo shows the before rail on the right and the after rails on the left.

As I put my jig together, it became clear that the grinding disk was not going to be able to be replaced without slacking off the jig bolts to slip it out.
Went out and got some more sanding disks of various grits from 36 to 120.
I am planning to use the 36 grit for the majority of the removal and then a pass with the finer grits to finish.
The benefit of using the sanding disks is they do not wear down anything like the grinding disks AND the replacement sanding disk just slips out of the jig without undoing any bolts.

Although I have not tested the sanding on the V yet, I suspect the removal rate will be far quicker judging by the removal rate of the rails cut edge.
There was no evidence of blueing (heating) of the steel even at quite high removal rates but it might happen if it was pushed to excess.

A few more pics for you all.

Regards
Ross
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_0843.jpg (56.5 KB, 2597 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0840.jpg (56.8 KB, 2593 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0844.jpg (57.2 KB, 2595 views)
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  #187  
Old Wed 12 May 2010, 23:46
Surfcnc
Just call me: Ross #74
 
Queensland
Australia
Sanding the V Rails

Firstly I found the poster who demonstated the sanding disk method, so thank you to Artifeh (Nader)

Finished the two long X rails before life called me from the garage.
Also sanded my thumb but thats another story.

Started with 36 grit then went to 60 grit and the finish was great.
As I had some 120 grit disks I used them for a quick pass but it was probably not required.
It was fast and easy to do and the sanding disks lasted very well at one per rail.
Only really changed them because I had them there to use.

My something special to add to the lubricant on the rails issue was that I used candle wax rubbed on when needed.
It proved to be clean and provided a really smooth run up and down the rails.

The photos attached are in macro and in the flesh the rails look perfect.

Regards
Ross
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_0845.jpg (38.1 KB, 2555 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0846.jpg (38.4 KB, 2552 views)
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  #188  
Old Thu 13 May 2010, 01:25
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Well done!
Its good that you didn't grind the angle any further, keeping a 3~5mm flat makes the slide work can prevent the height setting bolt from digging into the angle iron.
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  #189  
Old Thu 13 May 2010, 01:42
Surfcnc
Just call me: Ross #74
 
Queensland
Australia
Hi Ken - Thanks for the encouragement.

That 3 - 5 mm flat you are looking at in the photo is actually 1.25mm wide !!
The macro is really close up and kind of makes it hard to see the 45 degree bevels and you loose perspective somewhat.
Drawing M1 10 110 MC states the rails are to be ground at 45 degrees leaving a 1mm flat at the top, so I stopped just short of that.
The candle wax worked very well in letting the jig slide but I did also polish of the ends of the adjustment bolts so they ran along the rail easily.

Regards
Ross
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  #190  
Old Sun 23 May 2010, 01:55
Surfcnc
Just call me: Ross #74
 
Queensland
Australia
General Update

Picked up the X slide from Paul (Skippy) this weekend and it seems good.
I have yet to actually measure anything but the quality and the tool steel itself looks just fine. Paul has included a link on his thread to the engineer who made them for us.

I also made some car stoppers and just now need to weld them up.

Have a look at how the bolts wore on my grinding skate height adjustment, about half way though I noticed the wear and swapped them out for a high tensile bolt.
The HT bolt showed much less wear but I presume it wore the rail down instead.

Lastly my trusty dust collector is back from it extended vacation on a building site. After a BIG clean up and it looks like new.
I have started a bit of a "two stage filter" modification using the Thien baffle concept and up sizing the collection pipe to six inches.
The basic specs are it is a 2hp 1500 CFM machine.
The exact same model is still sold here in Queensland, but I got mine about 5 years ago now according to the serial number plate.

Regards
Ross
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_0870.jpg (33.2 KB, 2483 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0868.jpg (33.1 KB, 2467 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0869.jpg (34.4 KB, 2478 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0863.jpg (18.9 KB, 2473 views)
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  #191  
Old Mon 24 May 2010, 14:11
purpura
Just call me: Gonzalo
 
Segovia
Spain
beautifull job Roos¡¡¡¡ thaks for the pictures
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  #192  
Old Tue 25 May 2010, 05:31
Surfcnc
Just call me: Ross #74
 
Queensland
Australia
Dust Collector

I made the upper and lower parts of my rubbish bin (75L) Thien dust seperator today.
Hoping for a massive improvement in dust management over some of my previous setups.
Really enjoyed the router work to make the separator as I promised myself I would have a good extraction system in place before anything was cut on the new machine.

Attached are two pics of the Thien assembly and another of a pleated filter cartridge installed in place of the old 30 micron bag.

Regards
Ross
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_0873.jpg (36.0 KB, 2398 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0874.jpg (21.0 KB, 2395 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0875.jpg (27.0 KB, 2395 views)
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  #193  
Old Fri 28 May 2010, 03:35
Surfcnc
Just call me: Ross #74
 
Queensland
Australia
Primary Dust Filter Tested

Hi All

I have still to build a new trolley and a steel frame to hold the motor but ran a test today of the Thien Separator.
It really does work well with a strong vortex spinning all the stuff to the outside and then dropping down the slot.
It does not need the polycarbonate but I really wanted to be able to see what was happening inside the separator to judge its effectiveness.
Boy is it effective !!

Regards
Ross
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_0878.jpg (32.1 KB, 2351 views)

Last edited by Surfcnc; Fri 28 May 2010 at 03:40..
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  #194  
Old Fri 28 May 2010, 03:53
purpura
Just call me: Gonzalo
 
Segovia
Spain
Hi Roos, i like a loot the seoparator¡¡¡, and i like mor becaus dont use more espace than a normas bacum, ¿coud you drow a little esquematic plam of the separator?
Thanks enyway for the idea.

PD: sorri for my bad englis.
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  #195  
Old Fri 28 May 2010, 06:32
Surfcnc
Just call me: Ross #74
 
Queensland
Australia
Hi Gonzalo

A plan and a video can found at http://www.cgallery.com/smf/index.php?topic=262.0.
The Pipe Joint Template web application at http://www.harderwoods.com/pipedocs.html is very helpful.

Regards
Ross
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  #196  
Old Fri 28 May 2010, 07:29
purpura
Just call me: Gonzalo
 
Segovia
Spain
Thanks Ross, this will be my nex prollect, i will so you wen is finis, thanks


and the program is fantastic¡¡¡¡¡

Last edited by purpura; Fri 28 May 2010 at 07:34..
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  #197  
Old Thu 03 June 2010, 23:36
Surfcnc
Just call me: Ross #74
 
Queensland
Australia
Dust Collector Near Finished

A few more flexible hoses and it is a going concern.
Some concessions have been made to make it compact but it should still work well.

Regards
Ross
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_0880.jpg (33.3 KB, 2261 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0881.jpg (27.3 KB, 2246 views)
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  #198  
Old Fri 04 June 2010, 02:04
AuS MaDDoG
Just call me: Tony #71
 
Brisbane
Australia
Very!! Very!! Niceeeeee Ross!! I love it!! might need to get me one of them

Cheers
Tony.
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  #199  
Old Fri 04 June 2010, 02:51
Kobus_Joubert
Just call me: Kobus #6
 
Riversdale Western Cape
South Africa
Send a message via Yahoo to Kobus_Joubert Send a message via Skype™ to Kobus_Joubert
More important is that white thing on the RHS. Keep them cool
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  #200  
Old Fri 04 June 2010, 18:55
Surfcnc
Just call me: Ross #74
 
Queensland
Australia
Thanks Tony - Hopefully dust will now be a minor issue (wishful thinking I know).
Kobus - the fridge does form part of the overall MM experience but it just is not directly connected !!

Regards
Ross
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  #201  
Old Sat 05 June 2010, 00:29
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
The fridge keeps the shims fresh.
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  #202  
Old Sun 13 June 2010, 03:36
Surfcnc
Just call me: Ross #74
 
Queensland
Australia
Cable Question for the Experienced Forum Members

Hi All

I have been doing more on my build but just nothing really worth taking a photo of, so for the moment that side of things is slumbering.

I have a question re the suitability of a cable Skippy has bought for us.
It is a Belden 6+E .5 mm multi stand conductor cable that has a 10.7 mm diameter and 85% tinned copper shielding. See the PDF Spec Sheet attached for more detail.
The cable chain this cable will be routed through has a 70mm bend radius, the closest we could get to the 75mm plan specification for the bend radius.

What I would like to ask is, if this cable is suitable, as using the rules of thumb it exceeds the bend radius by a good measure.
The availability of the "perfect single cable" that has lots of cores AND a tight bend radius is basically zero here in Australia.

So what have others done about this issue or what experiences have others had putting a similar thickness cable into a working mechmate.

Thanks in Advance

Ross
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Belden 7 Core CY Cable.pdf (75.6 KB, 136 views)
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  #203  
Old Sun 13 June 2010, 07:19
rotorzoomer
Just call me: Account - DISABLED
 
Account - DISABLED
Australia
Cable

I am using the LAPP Olflex Classic 115CY 4G1 Part No. 1136204 (4 Core + Shield)

This cable will be used for everything both internal and external to the control box and will even be used to run my Makita Router @ 2200W running 240V through it by paralleling the 4x strands @ 1.0mm each to make 2x 2.00mm for both Active / Neutral.

My theory when choosing this cable was that i was less focused on getting heaps of strands into a single cable and used the theory that if i needed more strands i just ran another cable from the control box.
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  #204  
Old Sun 13 June 2010, 07:30
Surfcnc
Just call me: Ross #74
 
Queensland
Australia
Thanks for your input Mark, some good sense there.

Regards
Ross
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  #205  
Old Wed 16 June 2010, 05:05
Surfcnc
Just call me: Ross #74
 
Queensland
Australia
Marking Up The Spider

My Spider came back from the laser cutters less the all important alignment marks for the six V bearing bolts.
Marking it up was proving difficult then I came across someone on the forum who had used a permanent marker refill to create a paint surface that can then be scratched to give a highly visible line.
Looked for the post again but could not find it, none the less thanks as it helps us not so familiar with the tricks of the metalworking trade.

Here is a pic of the result.
IMG_0890.jpg

While I'm at it -

Go Kobus with your new UIRobot controllers - I have read all the specs and now even wishing that Mach was CAN aware !!

Regards
Ross
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  #206  
Old Wed 16 June 2010, 08:18
Kobus_Joubert
Just call me: Kobus #6
 
Riversdale Western Cape
South Africa
Send a message via Yahoo to Kobus_Joubert Send a message via Skype™ to Kobus_Joubert
Hi Ross, being cutting all afternoon as we have a holiday today. Those drivers are working like it should....no problems so far. Still waiting for some cable to put the driver ON the stepper to test.
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  #207  
Old Thu 17 June 2010, 20:32
Surfcnc
Just call me: Ross #74
 
Queensland
Australia
Touch Screen Monitors

Ebay Australia has some touch screen monitors (only the monitor panel not the whole internet kiosk) the same as Aus Maddog and Skippy up for auction.
They are set at pretty good price for a used 15 inch touch panel, but you will need to make your own judgement on that side of things.

Check out http://cgi.ebay.com.au/15-Touchscree...#ht_500wt_1154 if you think you might be able to use one in your build.

Regards
Ross
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  #208  
Old Fri 18 June 2010, 03:41
southernduckie
Just call me: Andrew (Duckie)
 
new south wales
Australia
Hello Ross,

As an industrial electrician i can offer the following advice for your cable,

yes you have exceeded the bend radius by enough to cause problems.
the first issues you will experience is broken cores in the cable this could cause problems if u use this for stepper morors depending on driver selection (open circuits blow the output stages).
at best i might guess this cable might last 1-2 years tops. you would be mutch better off using 2 or 4 core cables.

A more expensve option is using rubber insulated cables (may need to made to order)$$$
Regards Andrew




Quote:
Originally Posted by Surfcnc View Post
Hi All

I have a question re the suitability of a cable Skippy has bought for us.
It is a Belden 6+E .5 mm multi stand conductor cable that has a 10.7 mm diameter and 85% tinned copper shielding. See the PDF Spec Sheet attached for more detail.
The cable chain this cable will be routed through has a 70mm bend radius, the closest we could get to the 75mm plan specification for the bend radius.

What I would like to ask is, if this cable is suitable, as using the rules of thumb it exceeds the bend radius by a good measure.
The availability of the "perfect single cable" that has lots of cores AND a tight bend radius is basically zero here in Australia.

Ross
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  #209  
Old Fri 18 June 2010, 04:13
Surfcnc
Just call me: Ross #74
 
Queensland
Australia
Thanks Duckie

The cable was to be used for signaling and as such the individual cores are only .5 mm2, far too small for a stepper.
I take your advice on the bend radius and a picture of what is the way to go is now forming solidly in front of me as a result of inputs from a wide range of sources.

I have had a significant rethink on cabling and to be honest even my own fall back position on cable for my steppers is underdone.
I might add this is the second time I have bought 50m drums of cable I probably won't use, so it starting to hurt a little.

The real issue here was a supplier of high quality cable was slow to rise to the top of a somewhat limited pool of automation cable resellers.
A combination of rigorous attention to the specifications of the cables, a different wiring topology and a recognition of the compromises I am prepared to accept all form part of the way forward on the cabling issue.

Once again thanks for your free professional advice, hard to get these days !!

Regards
Ross
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  #210  
Old Fri 18 June 2010, 05:17
Surfcnc
Just call me: Ross #74
 
Queensland
Australia
Proximity Sensors

Today I had some proximity sensors arrive from China.

The specifications are ... NPN NO type - three wire - 4mm sensing distance - 12mm diameter sensor.

Attached are 4 images showing the two states of the sensor in operation and the Mach3 screens.

Sensing Mmetal - the "Normally Open" sensor is closed and the LED in the sensor glows red to indicate it is closed.
IMG_0892.jpg
IMG_0894.jpg

Not Sensing Metal - the "Normally Open" sensor is now open, the LED is not lit and the Mach3 screen indicates a limit has been reached and an Estop condition is triggered.
IMG_0893.jpg
IMG_0896.jpg

I have followed Gerald's advice on the type and configuration of the sensors as it allows you to tell immediately if a sensor is working by just checking if the LED is lit.
Further any departure from metal, like a lift off the rails, also triggers a stop.

Regards

Ross
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