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#61
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You did open the door with the "wasn't sticking the the primer properly." comment.
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#62
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@Heath: I did open up myself for that comment
![]() I have to say I am blown away about the "Same Day Delivery" that McMaster offers. About 3-4 days ago I ordered a few bolts along with a few different things from them around 9am, guess what??? It was at my office doorstep by 3:30pm!!.. The label in the box said "Speedy Same day Delivery!!!!" now that's fast shipping. I am about to start working on the motor mounting and would love to know if any of you guys have ordered the belt and pulley from McMaster and would happen to have part numbers that could share. |
#63
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Repainted Table
Here are the pictures of the repainted table. After re-priming it, getting a better paint gun and better paint. Starting to put it back together. I welded the 1.5x1.5" square pipe to the table to be able to attach the casters with U-Bolts. It worked out pretty good.
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#64
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Nice work Miguel. Looks sharp! Great idea to use the square tube to provide a flat surface to mount the casters.
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#65
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Looking good Miguel.
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#66
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Thanks guys. I do have to say, this is my very first time welding and painting with an HPLV (Spray) gun. Who ever came up with the idea of putting training videos on youtube is a genius.
One of the main reasons I went for a bolted machine vs welded was so I could easily move it when it came time to move from my current warehouse/office BUT it has already showed is advantages. When I was mounting the X rails I noticed the table was about 1" off square which made me almost stop breathing because I hadn't notice this problem while I was building the machine. It ended up being a really easy fix because it was bolted. I loosened the bolts on the crossing beams and within 10 minutes it was back to Square, it was a good feeling!... |
#67
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I added a youtube video with a bunch of pictures and timeline of the build so far. Hope you guys enjoy it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=se6LFuZdvHs |
#68
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Great looking machine Miguel. Great music also.
You have a good taste ![]() Wish you all the best |
#69
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Thank you Ahmed!...Hopefully will be making some dust pretty soon. Trying to make my kids a home made skateboard (I may have to get some pointers from Ross/Surfcnc)..
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#70
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So today I started wiring the electronics. I am attaching a couple pictures of the progress. On the Right hand side of the panel you can see the power supplies, I am hoping they are big enough.
Last edited by TechGladiator; Thu 03 November 2011 at 17:25.. |
#71
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![]() do some show and tell becouse that cabinet have some xtras that i dont think will be for the MM but at the end... GOOD WORK |
#72
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#73
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I really want to make sure that I have everything cover.. hehehe!
![]() Actually, we are building this MCC (Motor Control Center) for a customer of ours. It will control a car wash and all its machines, sensors, conveyor, parking lot lights, sprinkler system, etc etc etc. Unfortunately I didn't take a good picture of the top/left hand side of the box. There is three phase 480V @ 800Amps coming into this box. Some of the components inside the box are (12) 15HP VFDs, (1) 3HP VFD, (4) 48V Power supplies for the LED lights, (6) 500VA power supplies, 324 (Not a typo) SPDT relays to control the equipement (Soap/water/chemical solenoids), and our embedded controller that makes everything work ![]() |
#74
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LOL!!! You got me!!!
I was beginning to wonder how complicated anyone can make the MM control panel into ![]() |
#75
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Z Slide Grinding
@Ken: That was the intent
![]() I just realized I had not posted an update in almost two weeks. After reading a bunch of threads about grinding the Z-Plate I decided to finally get it done. I have to say it was a lot easier than I had anticipated. I ordered the plate from McMaster (36") and once received it only took me 30 minutes per side to grind with the skate. I know there are a lot of pictures about the skate mounting and what not but I figured I would take some more. The pictures on this forum has helped me tremendously!!.. The 3kw spindle and VFD arrived today so I will be mounting that over the weekend. I will also be taking some more picture of the machine in the next day or so to post the progress. |
#76
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Yep, that looks about right.
For the new readers, you can notice that he used a 36" long unit and ground the edge, then trimmed to length. |
#77
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Quick Update
So I have the Z-Slide all drilled and tapped. Motors are mounted. The large black area you see on the side of the table is the area for the control boxes and VFD box to get mounted.. I think I will start wiring this weekend..
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#78
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So I just wanted to give everybody a quick update. I took some time off for the holidays to get things done on the "Honey Do List". As the old saying goes "Happy wife, happy life".
The table building is all complete as you can mostly see from the pictures above. I have mounted all the electronics, ran all the wires and probably terminated about 75% of all the wiring. Over the next could of days I am going to be finishing wiring the limit sensors as well as the start/stop circuit. So far the contactor, front door start/stop button, gecko drives, BOB and power supply are all wired. I will be posting pictures within the next day or so. |
#79
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Looking good !!!
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#80
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So I am stuck on what it may be a non-issue or just a personal preference but I wanted to make sure. I am getting ready to wire the steppers into the Gecko drives (No BOB). I have the 8 wire KL34H280-45-8A and I am going to be wiring them Bipolar-Parallel @ 48VDC. I have run two cables into each one of the junction boxes (One 8 Conductor shielded and One 4 Conductor shielded). My question is, which one do I use for the steppers? Do I double up each of the wires for the steppers and use the 4 Conductor wire or do I use the 8 conductor wire and then just pair the wires in the box where the Gecko drives are?
Also, just to make sure. I am wiring as follows with a 39k resistor on each Gecko drive. (A+) Blue & Yellow (A-) Red & Green (B+) Brown & Orange (B-) Black & White |
#81
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You could do either, although my preference would be to use the 4 conductor wire, since it should be less expensive, and requires fewer total connections.
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#82
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i have the same motors you do, and the wiring you show is correct. double check your resistor value just to be sure! i had the wrong one, and it caused me problems for days...
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#83
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Thank you guys. I will do some more wiring tomorrow. I am coming down to the final stretch. Just the start/stop/pause buttons to wire up. So far I've been able to keep the magic smoke inside all the electronic components.
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#84
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Use the 4 core to the motor and wire the ends there. Your resistor should be 420K (+/-) a little since that is the 6.3 amp config. Motor wire pairs look correct.
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#85
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Mike: Do I use the 420K for each of the Gecko drives? I am not using the PMDX-133, I am wiring directly into the PMDX-126.
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#86
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The resistors are for the motors. All the 133 board does is simplify the wiring. You will see a place on the 203V for the resistors. These are current limit resistors for the Geckos/Motors.
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#87
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miguel, see this post for how the gecko is wired up. you'll see the resistor on the left hand side, you need one per gecko.
http://mechmate.com/forums/showthrea...7&postcount=39 |
#88
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Additional Wiring Progress
Not a whole lot of news. I have all the motors and drives wired up. Tomorrow will be time for start/stop/pause buttons. Bellow are some pictures of the progress
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#89
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It moves!!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6VPiohh5Vk
Today was a good day ![]() |
#90
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VERY COOL MIGUEL!! I have yet to read through your log here. But let me ask,... where did you buy all your steel? Online or local?
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