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  #1  
Old Fri 09 September 2011, 22:35
TechGladiator
Just call me: Miguel #94
 
Randolph, NJ
United States of America
Cold Air Gun Success #94 - Northern NJ USA

Hi everyone, I'm from Northern NJ and after reading a bunch of the postings in the forums I decided to start my own build. I will start posting pictures of the progress as soon as I get started.
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  #2  
Old Sat 10 September 2011, 07:34
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Welcome to the Club - you won't be disappointed.
Good luck.
Read a lot, ask questions - be mindful of the budget vs. performance you want out of the machine.
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  #3  
Old Sat 10 September 2011, 19:08
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
Welcome!
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  #4  
Old Sun 11 September 2011, 08:02
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Welcome to the team !!!
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  #5  
Old Sun 11 September 2011, 19:02
TechGladiator
Just call me: Miguel #94
 
Randolph, NJ
United States of America
Thanks guys!... Just a quick question, I will be ordering the steel tomorrow from a local supplier here, Does anybody have a list of materials for the steel? I know I can probably figure it out by going through the plans but I was wondering if anybody had a list. I already ordered the Machined Parts from Mike.

Thanks in Advance,
Miguel
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  #6  
Old Mon 12 September 2011, 01:50
TechGladiator
Just call me: Miguel #94
 
Randolph, NJ
United States of America
DAY 1 - Reviewing the Plans

After careful review of the plans by my helper, tomorrow I will order the right amount of steel. Lot of hard work went on today as you can see..
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File Type: jpg IMAG0401.jpg (119.7 KB, 1649 views)
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  #7  
Old Mon 12 September 2011, 03:28
TechGladiator
Just call me: Miguel #94
 
Randolph, NJ
United States of America
So here goes a couple of probably stupid questions. Since I am waiting for the steel to come in I figured I can start doing some planning for the electrical. I have both 110v and 220v in my building/warehouse. Which one should I go with? Also, I why do I need a VFD? I know what a VFD does as we use them at work for Blowers and conveyors, but why do I need it here? Lastly, if I need it, I have a brand new Telemequanique (sp?) Altivar 31 (3HP) at the shop, can I use this?

Thanks
Miguel
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  #8  
Old Mon 12 September 2011, 04:12
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Welcome.
While you are waiting, I strongly recommend to go through the whole forum thread by threat, post by post & word by word,,,, over & over again...
The basic CNC router use a router (obviously ). You will need a VFD to drive a spindle motor if you go the spindle way, that will incur some extra expenses. With a spindle, you can pin-point whatever cutter rpm which you fancy. Spindle motor usually runs up to 24000rpm & you need a 400Hz VFD yo get to that speed.
Size of the VFD depends on your spindle size & your spindle size depends on many factors such as the type of material you cut, your bit choice, the type of job you do, last but not the least is your inherent cutting habit.
Before you ask what Hp spindle is the best, I'll say it is just like buying any other equipment, There are no fix answer to what size spindle is best, or good enough, or best bang for the buck... no matter what you buy, they are never good enough eventually...
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  #9  
Old Mon 12 September 2011, 04:21
TechGladiator
Just call me: Miguel #94
 
Randolph, NJ
United States of America
Ken

Thank you for your input. It's a little more clear now .

Thanks
Miguel
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  #10  
Old Mon 12 September 2011, 16:11
TechGladiator
Just call me: Miguel #94
 
Randolph, NJ
United States of America
DAY 2: Ordered Steel

So today felt really good. I contacted three different steel suppliers withing 25 miles of where I live and boy-oh-boy am I glad that I did. The price difference between them is pretty huge. I got a price quote from one place of $1,926 which was about twice of what I was expecting to pay. I found a place 3 miles down the road that will deliver for $910. (for a 9x6 table). I am going to attempt to go make a bolted frame based on Surfcnc table.

Here is what I ordered so far, I am sure I will need some more


Qty: (1) -- C8" x 13.75# X 20' C-Channel for the mail rails
Qty: (4) -- C3" x 4.1# X 20' C-Channel for cross beans and legs
Qty: (6) -- 1.5" x 1.5" x 1/8" x 20' Rectangular tube for X & Y lower bracing
Qty: (1) -- 2" x 4" x 14 Gauge x 24' Rectangular tube for the Gantry
Qty: (2) -- 2.5" x 2" x 1/4" x 20' Angle channel for the rails.

I have also ordered the laser cut parts from Mike so I am waiting for those as well.
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  #11  
Old Mon 12 September 2011, 21:10
timberlinemd
Just call me: Steve #66
 
Arizona
United States of America
Your one piece of C8 will allow you to build a table that will be able to cut a 97" long sheet of material, but will not cut a 9' long sheet of material, if that is indeed what you want to do?
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  #12  
Old Tue 13 September 2011, 05:06
Surfcnc
Just call me: Ross #74
 
Queensland
Australia
Hi Miguel

Now they have been nice enough to provide you with a good price, it is also an idea to let them know you are building a precision machine.
Create an expectation of the quality you might be expecting in terms of the straightness of the sections etc.
Some people have discovered 4mm bows in the big X beams and had to weld them straight.
It can be fixed but take your time when you receive the steel and check over all the sections before they are in your possession for too long.

Regards
Ross

PS A surfcnc table (base) you say - I'm honoured
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  #13  
Old Tue 13 September 2011, 07:15
TechGladiator
Just call me: Miguel #94
 
Randolph, NJ
United States of America
Yes . I am ok with that.

Thanks
Miguel
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  #14  
Old Tue 13 September 2011, 07:17
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
If you notice in the plans, the use of the diagonal cut on the c8 beams allows for the top chord of the structural beam to be long enough to allow for this length. If you cut the beam in half, then angle cut, it wouldn't be long enough (in some cases) . Be mindful of accuracy when making that cut!
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  #15  
Old Tue 13 September 2011, 07:20
TechGladiator
Just call me: Miguel #94
 
Randolph, NJ
United States of America
Ross;

Thanks for the tip, I didn't even think about that. This is going to be the first time I weld, so I don't know if I would be able to fix it with my welding. I can do programming but not welding

I will keep you all posted as to what I receive.

Thanks again
Miguel
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  #16  
Old Tue 13 September 2011, 07:37
Rusty Nuts
Just call me: Gary #86
 
Valley Grande, AL
United States of America
Miguel, I posted the materials which I used to build the frame work of my MM. The price you quoted is about what I paid. Be sure to measure twice and cut once

Gary
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  #17  
Old Tue 13 September 2011, 08:10
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Friendly reminder to not include text from previous post in your replies. No need to duplicate entries and clutter up the database.
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  #18  
Old Tue 13 September 2011, 08:59
TechGladiator
Just call me: Miguel #94
 
Randolph, NJ
United States of America
Thanks Mike. I didn't realize that.
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  #19  
Old Wed 14 September 2011, 21:22
TechGladiator
Just call me: Miguel #94
 
Randolph, NJ
United States of America
DAY 3: Received Steel and Made cuts

Today was a busy fun day. I received all the steel and cut what I believe is all the pieces I am going to need. It was an undertaking having to cut the C8. It came on a 20' section which means it's about 280lbs, good thing I ate my weedies this morning .

Since I didn't own a welder and a drill press I also made a trip to the hardware store and picked up both of them. I ended up buying a Rigid 8HP 12 Speed dripp press for $214 (Was on clearance, go figure) and a Lincoln Electric 140Amp Mig welder. It look like the nicest unit that the store had that could still run on 110AC and has the ability to hook up a CO2/Air tank to it. Which reminds me, For all you guys that already have experience welding, do recommend welding with or without the CO2? Also, I was talking to this guy at the hardware store and he mentioned to me that if I was going to do frame welding I should get some Welding arrow magnets. I checked ebay and I was able to get 12 for about $24 (all different sizes, 75lbs, 50lbs and 25lbs).

Tomorrow will be trying to get all the drilling done..
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File Type: jpg IMAG0408.jpg (119.9 KB, 1595 views)
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  #20  
Old Thu 15 September 2011, 00:08
baseball43v3r
Just call me: John #96
 
Glendora (California)
United States of America
using a gas mixture can make all the difference in the world. the gas shield helps greatly in reducing splatter. Also seems to be a cleaner weld, at least for me.
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  #21  
Old Thu 15 September 2011, 05:04
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
As far as the gas it does help with the weld splatter, but you can just use flux core and splatter guard http://www.safenclean.com/welding/index.html or PAM will also work without spending the money on the botthe and the gas. Did that Lincoln come with the regulator for the gas bottle or is it another purchase? Just make sure you use flux core wire if not using the bottle. Clean, Clean, Clean the weld areas. Get a wire cup brush for your 4 inch grinder to clean the area before welding. Also get a wire brush and a chipping hammer to clean the welds after they are done because they will have a crust on top that needs to come off.
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  #22  
Old Fri 16 September 2011, 18:06
TechGladiator
Just call me: Miguel #94
 
Randolph, NJ
United States of America
Day 4: Welding has began

Today I felt like a kid in a candy store. I got my Argon/CO2 gas bottle to start welding and I also received the lasered parts from Mike.

I tried the welding with and without the CO2 gas and WOW, what a difference. I do have both types of welding wire (with and without flux) and the welding with CO2 goes so much smoother. I am attaching a couple of pictures of the welds (Nothing great but it's my first time ever welding).

I also saw one of the best warning signs on an electrical box today and I figured I would share it with you guys.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMAG0418.jpg (166.7 KB, 1581 views)
File Type: jpg IMAG0417.jpg (159.4 KB, 1566 views)
File Type: jpg IMAG0415.jpg (159.8 KB, 1559 views)
File Type: jpg IMAG0414.jpg (182.3 KB, 1554 views)
File Type: jpg IMAG0412.jpg (133.6 KB, 1490 views)
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  #23  
Old Tue 20 September 2011, 19:30
TechGladiator
Just call me: Miguel #94
 
Randolph, NJ
United States of America
Day 5 -- Welding and Drilling

So today I did a bunch of drilling and welded almost everything on the table, except the Cross beams and legs which I drilled so I can take it apart if I need to. I think in another 3-4 hours I will have all the welding and drilling done on the table.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMAG0423.jpg (187.3 KB, 1424 views)
File Type: jpg IMAG0426.jpg (176.8 KB, 1401 views)
File Type: jpg IMAG0428.jpg (141.7 KB, 1378 views)
File Type: jpg IMAG0431.jpg (121.4 KB, 1346 views)
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  #24  
Old Wed 21 September 2011, 17:08
TechGladiator
Just call me: Miguel #94
 
Randolph, NJ
United States of America
I am confused about a couple things (doesn't take much) and I figured before I mess up I would ask.

1) What is the purpose of the X/Y-Rail Clamp Strip?

2) I am building the Y/Y Rail out of 2.5" x 2" Angle Channel, do I need to cut the height of the rail? (Or is it even recommended?) I don't see a clear indication of this on the plans.

Thanks
Miguel
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  #25  
Old Wed 21 September 2011, 18:08
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showt...53&postcount=1

Go read this.
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  #26  
Old Wed 21 September 2011, 21:17
Rusty Nuts
Just call me: Gary #86
 
Valley Grande, AL
United States of America
Smile

Miguel

The clamp strip can be from the cut offs of the rails. It is drilled at the same time you drill the Y rails, you will then tap the holes in the clamp strip for what ever size bolts you plan to use to secure your rails. The clamp strip will be inserted into the Y tubing and act as a set of nuts for the rail bolts. If you use the recommed tubing for the granty it will be too light to tap thus the clamp strips.

You will not need a clamp strips for the X rails as you can drill and tap the C channel.

Yes you will have to cut the angle iron down on one side.

The info is in the plans, it helped me by marking the pages for each step with sticky notes, be sure to study before cutting because the MM plans are laid out for mutiple sizes so be sure you are using the correct dimensions.

Gary
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  #27  
Old Thu 22 September 2011, 19:19
TechGladiator
Just call me: Miguel #94
 
Randolph, NJ
United States of America
Gary;

It makes a lot of sense now.!. Thanks for the explanation.

Miguel
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  #28  
Old Fri 23 September 2011, 12:33
TechGladiator
Just call me: Miguel #94
 
Randolph, NJ
United States of America
Quick Question. I have the table pretty much all done and I am just about to start mounting the Rails. My distance between the outer edge of the Y Beams is 71", How much do I make my Y-Rails hang of the side of my C8/Y beam? I am sure it's on the plans but I dont see it .

Thanks
Miguel
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  #29  
Old Fri 23 September 2011, 12:50
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
That dimension is on Drawing 10 10 300 D and listed as Dimension M, it is not a set amount. Also usually in the plans the X axis is set on the C channel and the Y axis is made of tubing that holds the Y car. Your length seems like a Y axis length but the description seems to depict an X axis?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerald D View Post
Dimension M is not the width of your rack. It is the space available for mounting the rack. (Rack widths vary from 3/8" to 17mm - depending on supplier/country)

Dimension M is affected by the straightness of the beams after welding and that is why it is not given as an absolute number. In theory, it is 21mm, which allows 4mm weld distortion for the guys with 17mm racks.

Last edited by domino11; Fri 23 September 2011 at 12:58..
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  #30  
Old Fri 23 September 2011, 13:17
TechGladiator
Just call me: Miguel #94
 
Randolph, NJ
United States of America
Domino.

Sorry.> I did confuse myself .. I am talking about the X Rails. I guess I have to make a Gauge Rod of my Y+461mm and then position my X-rails at an equal M distance. Am I corect?

Thank you again
Miguel
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