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  #31  
Old Wed 09 September 2009, 08:44
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
Very nice. Your welding looks fine to me. My welding wont look any better than yours, but it will still work.
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  #32  
Old Wed 09 September 2009, 10:36
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Welds do not have to be pretty to be strong....those look like strong welds

Everything looks okay.
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  #33  
Old Wed 09 September 2009, 12:58
Claudiu
Just call me: Claus #43
 
Arad
Romania
one little question

Thank you for your support,

I plan drilling the spider for mounting all six rollers. I have seen many who have drilled and tapped the holes, others welded screws on the opposite side where the rollers should be mounted.
Which way to go, as you have seen in the pics welding is my thing...

or maybe tapping and then welding ? I`m confused.
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  #34  
Old Wed 09 September 2009, 13:09
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Tap holes, screw on nuts, then weld the nuts. It makes the adjustment of the eccentrics easy, and you can then really tighten the screws without a fear of the threads stripping.
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  #35  
Old Wed 09 September 2009, 13:09
Claudiu
Just call me: Claus #43
 
Arad
Romania
Thanks Gerald, I will do that. Regarding the tabletop. Is it possible to use two sheets of OSB for fixing on the table and then use MDF only for sacrificial?
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  #36  
Old Wed 09 September 2009, 17:57
bradm
Just call me: Brad #10
 
Somerville(MA)
United States of America
I think I'd stay away from the OSB. If the OSB and MDF move at different rates in response to moisture changes, bad things could happen. Also, think about what will happen as you get close to using up your MDF. Are you going to cut part of the OSB, or leave part of the MDF as you prepare to add another sheet. If the whole top is MDF, there isn't as much thinking to do.
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  #37  
Old Fri 11 September 2009, 06:19
Claudiu
Just call me: Claus #43
 
Arad
Romania
Hi,

I got these Proxies from IFM, more info about these you can find here
I still need to find out what realys I need. Any suggestions?

Thanks a lot.
P.S: The Iron table was ordered! after almost two month... I was pretty upset but I cannot change it...it´s just killing me waiting so long for a few beams...this thing should be mooving already...
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  #38  
Old Fri 11 September 2009, 14:13
martin77pl
Just call me: Martin #39
 
Wroclaw
Poland
Hi Claus, I think you should try them for your proxies PIR6W1PS12R. Try this link http://www.tme.eu/ro/. I am connecting mine tomorrow.
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  #39  
Old Mon 14 September 2009, 10:36
Claudiu
Just call me: Claus #43
 
Arad
Romania
Thanks a lot, Martin

that`s exactly what i was looking for Good link, I`m going to order those, and the price is ok.
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  #40  
Old Tue 15 September 2009, 14:28
Claudiu
Just call me: Claus #43
 
Arad
Romania
Got good news today...

I got a call from the Ironman. I received today all table parts besides the main beams and the Gantry tubes. They remained at the Workshop for being prepared for the rails. I hope it`s finished soon.
But, matter of fact is, that I can start on the Table.
After having read a few posts here, I decided to build a welded/bolted version of the MM. I like the idea of easily being moved if necessary.
I`ll will post some pics when I got some parts finished.
Good night.
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  #41  
Old Wed 16 September 2009, 05:54
gixi
Just call me: Marius (AVO) #32
 
Bucharest
Romania
Send a message via Yahoo to gixi
Claudiu please be kind to make some pictures in detail to see how is looking the surface of the metal after the Ironman finish "polish" it.
If it looks good maybe I'll place an order to this guy for the next MM.
Thank's
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  #42  
Old Thu 01 October 2009, 07:58
Claudiu
Just call me: Claus #43
 
Arad
Romania
Got the X beams today.

Hi everybody,

Today I got x Beams and I can start working on the table.
Like I have shown in Thread #5, here´s some pics of the surfaces created to align the rails on.
I have also tapped allready the holes on the upper side for fixing the rails, next step will be pressing them together and marking all drilling points for the crossmembers.
X Beams are straight, work done so far is good.

As you can see in the pictures, one beam has a shoulder which is the guidance for one of thre rails to be fit in place perfectly straight. The other x Beam has a planar surface with no shoulder so I can adjust parallelism between rails by making oval holes into the rail. With this type of fastening I think I will be able to make small adjustments to the rails after the whole table has been assembled after moving it from one location to another.

Look what I found today in my Workshop.

Greetings
Attached Images
File Type: jpg bufnita.jpg (93.9 KB, 1236 views)
File Type: jpg xbeamleft.jpg (141.0 KB, 1230 views)
File Type: jpg xbeamshoulder.jpg (124.1 KB, 1231 views)
File Type: jpg xbeamsboth.jpg (50.0 KB, 1226 views)
File Type: jpg xbeam1.jpg (37.2 KB, 1225 views)
File Type: jpg xbeam2.jpg (36.4 KB, 1221 views)
File Type: jpg screwedtap.jpg (28.3 KB, 1218 views)
File Type: jpg tapped xbeam.jpg (29.6 KB, 1215 views)
File Type: jpg tapping.jpg (36.9 KB, 1218 views)
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  #43  
Old Thu 01 October 2009, 08:01
Claudiu
Just call me: Claus #43
 
Arad
Romania
How is it to be done to put a pic and write some text to it, and then another pic with some more description. Until now I can only write text and then put a set of photos online, but it´s impossible to ad text to them. Sorry for that stupid question but it seems that the answer is hiding from me

Thanks
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  #44  
Old Thu 01 October 2009, 08:04
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
Send a message via Yahoo to Robert M Send a message via Skype™ to Robert M
Look like you found a nice new mascot....
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  #45  
Old Thu 01 October 2009, 10:11
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
For inserting the photos in between text see comments about "insert" using the "paper clip" from this post and further.
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  #46  
Old Wed 11 November 2009, 12:20
Claudiu
Just call me: Claus #43
 
Arad
Romania
Hello everybody,

Due to some so called "delivery problems" created by the Ironman who got the order for the steelparts 4 month ago, I was not able to finish the MechMate in the projected time. He wanted to do me a special job and I still have not received all parts. He really got me angry after such a long time of delay. In that time I could have rasped all parts by myself from a block of steel...c`mon. But no prob for me, as "the path is the goal"

Meanwhile I spent a lot of time reading and studying details of the MM.
Anyway I had some other Projects running which I will post in the other Hobbies Threat.

So for the past few weeks I did not post too much but now it`s time to come up with some pictures of my latest progress as part by part were ready for assembling.
gantryontop.jpg
As you can see I have used a lot of input from John (Buibui) what the structure is concerned. (But i never dare to compare ... mine is like from stoneage...)
I started with the table sides which can be seen in the following pics.1tableside.jpg
The Gantry was just assembled for the looks of it, i was so curious to anticipate the real size of the machine.
As you can see I put the unfinished gantry in a rude manner on the rails which I just got. After inspecting them they were machined as if not. They have been marks all over them, they were not smooth and not the same width. Even the top of the rail was snakelike if looking from above. Ready made for recycling. I`m going to post some details of that later, too. So i ordered just plain steel to do it Gerald way. Simple and sure.

Meanwhile welding other tablefeet together, I also assembled it bit by bit. I used almost 50 M16 Hex screws to assemble all parts. (In this pic still three beams between main beams are still not mounted.) tableside1.jpg
These are the new rails which have to be machined, this will be done tomorrow. I bought today the 1mm INOX disks which I will use to cut down rails.
tabledetail.jpg
See the straightness of the rails not beeing adjusted yet !!! They seemed pretty straight to test also the gantry...(don`t tell anybody)
straightrail.jpg
These are the oval holes for adjusting rails with the gauge rod. You can see the machined surface of the main beam where the rail is mounted on.
Yes I know, there is still some mess inside, which I will clean out when preparing for painting.
centeringholerail.jpg
Some details of the adjustable table feet. I did not try to make it lightweight as you can see. The whole table is going to be pretty heavy, and as I`m used with heavy machinery in my daily business, I want them strong !!! BIG FEET
tablefeet.jpgtablefeet1.jpg
Some details preparing the Gantry. Welding was done directly on the table after it was leveled. Used also some clamps and internal rods for holding together the Gantry.
gantryfixing.jpg
I was rechecking geometry a hundred times before welding because I was so scared it could come out faulty.gantryweld.jpg

After all I was able to try out rolling the gantry on the rails. It`s incredible how easy it rolls on and on and on... I`m curious how it will be rolling on the cut ant prepared rails with it`s really smooth gliding surface. I pushed and pulled it over an hour just dreaming on how it will be when it`s grown up.

tableside1.jpg

I will upload some Vids to youtube with the testing of the Gantry.

Thank you again Gerald for giving me (us) this opportunity and sharing your knowledge. It`s a proof of humbleness and wisdom which is admirable and earns respect.
Also big thanks to all guys helping out when in need ...
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  #47  
Old Wed 11 November 2009, 13:26
Claudiu
Just call me: Claus #43
 
Arad
Romania
Some youtube movies

I`m back!

I invite you to see the first time testing of the Gantry...

Thank you for watching.

Bye
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  #48  
Old Thu 12 November 2009, 10:32
Claudiu
Just call me: Claus #43
 
Arad
Romania
Need some advise...

Hi guys,

today I was rolling around the gantry seeing that one roller doesn`t touch the rail by the end of the opposite side of the beam where 0,0,0 is.
The distance appears to be about 2-3 mm between rail and roller. The contact is lost 60 cm from the end of the rail towards 0,0,0.
bendingexplained.jpg
I have checked the straightness of the beam and found out that it is bent downward. The bending appears only in the end of the beam like shown in the picture.( Only half of the beam from where I took the pic)
I`ve shimmed it with a 5mm, creating a tension in the beam. The tablefeet seem strong enough to withstand tension and I managed to push the beam upward compensating the gap. I have now full contact with all four rollers on the rail. I even checked and the table is leveled.
What is your proposal for fixing this problem.
1. Should I leave it like this using the big shim (5mm)
2. Should I try to heat up the beam trying to get it in shape? ( and if where is the correct part to put the flame on?)
3. Should i buy a new beam? (which is not a good choice because it`s allready machined on top)
oppositezero.jpg
oppositezero1.jpg

Thanks for your advice.
Good night.
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  #49  
Old Thu 12 November 2009, 13:31
bolingerbe
Just call me: Bryan #54
 
Clinton(Tennessee)
United States of America
Seating the Y Gantry

Claus,

You may want to look at the below link. I help you with your problem

http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=663
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  #50  
Old Thu 12 November 2009, 15:05
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
Send a message via Yahoo to Robert M Send a message via Skype™ to Robert M
Claus, You better correct the source, your main beams ONLY !

Stressing them is really not a god thing ! Get to the source first !
You’re not the first with this issue, have a look at this link to help you correct your main beams.
Take note of reading the whole thread...
Amicalement, Robert
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  #51  
Old Fri 13 November 2009, 00:18
Claudiu
Just call me: Claus #43
 
Arad
Romania
Good morning,

Bryan, I`ve already read that solution regarding a twisted gantry. I`ve checked mine but it has definitely no twist. It runs on all four wheels up to the end of the x beam where it looses contact.

Robert, I remembered reading also this thread, it was the first one which came to my head for solving the prob, but my x beam is bowing downwards as I said before, so I still do not know where exactly to put welds for lifting it up...
Which would be the heating technique for bending the beam vertically?

Greetings.

Claus
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  #52  
Old Fri 13 November 2009, 04:23
Claudiu
Just call me: Claus #43
 
Arad
Romania
Hi,

I think about applying heat with a torch to two or three V shaped places.
I also thought about crossing to top of the x beam to get an even shrinkage so I wont get any lateral twist. I hope to lift it upward so the tension created by shimming will be less.
bended Xbeam.jpg
Please provide suggestions if you consider another approach.

Thanks a lot.
Claus
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  #53  
Old Fri 13 November 2009, 11:04
Claudiu
Just call me: Claus #43
 
Arad
Romania
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert M View Post
Claus, You better correct the source, your main beams ONLY !

Stressing them is really not a god thing ! Get to the source first !
You’re not the first with this issue, have a look at this link to help you correct your main beams.
Take note of reading the whole thread...
Amicalement, Robert
Hi Robert,

I`ve read that threat again up to the finish, but I still cannot find the part for bending a beam upward, only read about bending the main beam sideways, or better said straightening it back from bowing in a lateral position.
Maybe I just don`t get it.

Thanks anyway Robert.

I`m still not sure. Is everybody on vacation?
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  #54  
Old Fri 13 November 2009, 12:55
bradm
Just call me: Brad #10
 
Somerville(MA)
United States of America
This sure feels like a Gerald question to me, and I'm a novice metalworker, but I'll shoot my mouth off anyway:

If you have successfully corrected the problem with your existing 5mm shim, I'd be more inclined to stay with that than to risk twisting your beam while trying to correct it.

My first attempt would have been to apply the shim(s) between the angle-iron rail and the beam, as that would involve fewer stresses built into the machine. You'll certainly end up with some variation relative to the spoil board support channels, but surfacing the spoil board should compensate for that.
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  #55  
Old Sat 14 November 2009, 09:16
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Claus, I understand that Ironman has machined the top of the beams . . . . .

Is that beam straight if you loosen all the screws (did Ironman do a good job) ?

If the answer is "yes", then the problem is created by the screwing down, and then I would say to use the 5mm spacer.

If the answer is "no", then you can bend the beam to fix Ironman's error. A flame alone will change nothing. The easiest is to use some extra welding. I will look for the thread where I think I explained the welding method . . . .

(Also, do not forget that it is perfectly normal to place some shims/spacers between the rail and the beam to get the final straight line of the rail.)
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  #56  
Old Sat 14 November 2009, 14:37
Claudiu
Just call me: Claus #43
 
Arad
Romania
Hello Gerald,

To answer your question, it is yes and no

yes, the ironman did work the top surface after welding on one 6mm plate which he grounded down to be even.
But...as he fixed the bent beam on his machine, he forced it into position.
After finishing his job he released it and it came back to it`s banana position.
So in fact his job was done ...

I disassembled the two main beams, put them one besides another.
Result is that one is perfectly straight, (checked with thin steel wire) and the one we`re talking about has a bent down 4 mm. ( in this case I put some sawhorses at one end and at about the middle of the beams.

I also checked the table legs with that thin wire and they are even.

Conclusion is: It`s the main beam !

Gerald this link refers to bowed beams but I think the weldings have to be put in an other manner to have results for this particular vertical problem.

May be it`s possible to get it straight half by shimming the beam and half by fine tuning (shimming) the rail?

To be honest I`m not such a good welder to start straightening beams by heat...but I`ll try if you think that`s the way to go.

Thanks much for helping out

Good night
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  #57  
Old Sat 14 November 2009, 21:21
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Remove the bent beam and put it upside down on your good beam. It should be a little like a rocking horse with its weight carried in the middle. Put 5mm spacers between the two beams, in the middle and 3mm spacers nearer the ends then clamp the two beams together at the points. (You will not damage the good beam)

Then make 30mm long welds (at a high current), at 400mm intervals:

Remove the clamps, turn the beam over and check it again for straightness. But, also check if the welding has caused a bend in the horizontal direction. Tell us the results and then we can decide what to do next.

(If Ironman welded a strip on the beams, those beams were very bent after their welding (20 to 40 mm?). They must have had a method of straightening the beams before machining. They should be able to offer that method again)
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  #58  
Old Thu 19 November 2009, 11:41
Claudiu
Just call me: Claus #43
 
Arad
Romania
Hello boys and girls,

I had a computer Crash just seconds before I have finished this post so I write it again. Maybe I should only write short posts and save my work just
in time...

I followed Geralds advise and did apply weldings to the main beam.
After several weldings done, I let it always cool down and checked for changes.
Well after several repeatings the main beam was optically straight.
I checked it putting it besides (full contact) the other beam.
The result is a gap of 0,3mm at the middle beam section, which is a reasonable result. I can correct the rails by shimming I guess. Problem solved, thank you again.

Now to the next point: The Ironman made crappy rails, so I got me new ones. I will make them the old fashioned way like a real MechMater.
I start cutting and grinding tomorrow so by monday everything should be finished, or polished.
railcutting.jpg

I want to show you also my little progress with the six legged Spider.
As you can see I have not made yet any holes for fixing the Spindle mounts.
Every thing is rolling fine...
spiderfront.jpg

This is the Motor side of the Assembly. When I had the motor mounted I saw it is not perfectly in line with the plate. I guess I have to bend it a few degrees to get it aligned.
You also see the distance between the tube and the stop on the spider is very small. This is caused by the dimensions of the tube I had to use. It was only available in 30x50 ( not 25x50 )
Spiderhighend.jpg

This is the low end of the assembly. You can also see those four tapped things which I`m going to use for a future exhaust system.
Spiderlowend.jpg

This will be the final Layout of the Spindle after I recheck height from tabletop to lower end of the Spindle carrier.
Spiderandspindle sideways.jpg

Now isn`t that a beauty?!!!
Spidervsspindle.jpg

BTW I designed the Spindle Mounts for the Eastern Spindle 2,2 kW.
It is at least a small contribution to you. If someone needs the drawings pls say so then I will post them.

Greetings
Claus
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  #59  
Old Thu 19 November 2009, 11:49
Claudiu
Just call me: Claus #43
 
Arad
Romania
Hi again,

Now look at this Ferrari MM...
Gantryprime.jpg

No just kidding. I have primed all parts in our "painting room" with this red brownish primer. I wish I had more of that light gray which I prefer personally more.
Paintingroom.jpg

Ycarprime.jpg

Crossmemberprime.jpg

I have also applied today the first coating of Signal Blue which is absolutely awesome...

I didn`t manage to take some pics because it got too dark, but you have to resist till tomorrow.

I can see the light at end of the tunnel...

Good night
Claus
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  #60  
Old Thu 19 November 2009, 12:22
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Nice work Claus!
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