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  #271  
Old Thu 02 June 2011, 23:42
melissa
Just call me: Melissa #83
 
Brighton (Ontario)
Canada
Next up was the logos, finally! I didn't break a bottle of champagne on the spoilboard, but the temptation was great .
gantry_logos.jpgtable_logo.jpg

Two photos of the control box:
control_box_closed.jpgcontrol_box_open.jpg

The port on the left side is a Neutrik USB panel connector, used for plugging in a thumb drive for loading files. There's no network enabled on this computer, and never will be. I don't check my email from the workshop, and have NO desire to do so .
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  #272  
Old Thu 02 June 2011, 23:48
melissa
Just call me: Melissa #83
 
Brighton (Ontario)
Canada
And... sawdust!

It took me a while to figure out that the roadrunner file is programmed in inches, while my machine runs in mm. There is a G code to specify inches, which resulted in motion I could see, not just hear .

The first try was with a 1/4" spiral upcut bit, which was totally the wrong bit to use . I tried again with a V-bit, and that turned out much better.

So, I think I've got the bases covered... blue paint, stickers, sawdust.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg cutting_roadrunner.jpg (19.4 KB, 819 views)
File Type: jpg two_roadrunners.jpg (33.2 KB, 822 views)
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  #273  
Old Thu 02 June 2011, 23:51
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Good job!
You just reminded me of my long overdue button name plate for my control box...
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  #274  
Old Fri 03 June 2011, 01:08
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Good job!
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  #275  
Old Fri 03 June 2011, 04:59
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Great work. Nice to see another machine come online.
Happy cutting!
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  #276  
Old Fri 03 June 2011, 07:41
AuS MaDDoG
Just call me: Tony #71
 
Brisbane
Australia
Very Nice !!!
and well done on a very nice looking machine.

Cheers
Tony.
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  #277  
Old Fri 03 June 2011, 08:01
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
Nicely Done!!
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  #278  
Old Fri 03 June 2011, 10:04
camilleg
Just call me: Camille
 
Urbana, Illinois
United States of America
We hardly recognize you in a t-shirt after all these photos of boots and mittens. BTW, nice warning tape on the edges of the lcd monitor!
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  #279  
Old Fri 03 June 2011, 10:07
camilleg
Just call me: Camille
 
Urbana, Illinois
United States of America
...and you got to bed before 2 AM. Triple word score with a side of poutine. Bravo, Melissa.

Last edited by domino11; Wed 13 August 2014 at 10:29..
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  #280  
Old Fri 03 June 2011, 11:25
HomeMadeCnc
Just call me: Tim
 
Calgary, Alberta
Canada
One Fine looking system!

Cheers Tim
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  #281  
Old Fri 03 June 2011, 15:22
normand blais
Just call me: Normand
 
montreal
Canada
Félicitation Melissa! I think I can see your landing strip from here ...did I heard poutine?
yumyum

Last edited by domino11; Wed 13 August 2014 at 10:29..
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  #282  
Old Fri 03 June 2011, 18:16
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Great thread !! Congrats on number 83 !!! Who's next
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  #283  
Old Fri 03 June 2011, 19:28
bolingerbe
Just call me: Bryan #54
 
Clinton(Tennessee)
United States of America
Great Job. Completing and getting your serial number is a wonderful feeling of success.
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  #284  
Old Fri 03 June 2011, 23:16
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
Congratulations on #83 and completing your machine.
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  #285  
Old Sat 04 June 2011, 14:08
camilleg
Just call me: Camille
 
Urbana, Illinois
United States of America
Cool, you got a prime number. (Wasn't your undergrad student ID number also prime?)
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  #286  
Old Sat 04 June 2011, 17:31
melissa
Just call me: Melissa #83
 
Brighton (Ontario)
Canada
Thanks for all the congratulations! I'm happy to have a working machine, although it is a large conceptual leap from "normal" machines to CNC. It's a completely different workflow, and sometimes a bit alarming, like when the gantry is doing a rapid towards x=0 and stops just shy of the hard stops. Whew.

I've already derailed the gantry once... configured X to run in reverse (so the numbers ran the correct way), forgot to do the same to the slaved A axis, slow jog with the ShuttlePro, and 30mm later, the diagonally opposite wheels were off the rails with a loud THUNK. Oops .

A quick dimension test confirmed my motor setup: I cut a 100x200mm rectangle and a 100mm diameter circle, both measured correctly.

On to dust collection, before I completely cover the workshop in sawdust!
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  #287  
Old Sat 04 June 2011, 21:17
jhiggins7
Just call me: John #26
 
Hebron, Ohio
United States of America
Updated Builder's Log

Melissa,

May I add my congratulations on completing your MechMate and earning Serial #83.

Here is the Updated Builder's Log.

Please review your entry and let me know any changes you want to make.

Great job!

Last edited by domino11; Wed 13 August 2014 at 10:29..
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  #288  
Old Mon 06 June 2011, 03:28
234ahmed
Just call me: Ahmed #81
 
Damietta
Egypt
Congratulations miechle. Nice looking machine

It really feels nice with a number beside your name. I'm still trying to get used to it

Melissa with the size you have i suggest you try with a wireless keyboard. I had one and it's really making a huge different to gain fine control when locating your work piece 0,0,0. It works for a 10m range or more.

Last edited by domino11; Wed 13 August 2014 at 10:30..
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  #289  
Old Mon 01 August 2011, 16:54
melissa
Just call me: Melissa #83
 
Brighton (Ontario)
Canada
Machine upgrades

Having built my MechMate, I was much less intimidated than otherwise, to rewire parts of the gantry.

I ordered a larger junction box for the gantry, which made the wiring much simpler. Having a pushbutton box and a junction box made for a very full junction box, and many more wires.

I also wired in the proxies at the same time. No photos of that part yet.

two_boxes_on_gantry.jpg
junction_box_packed.jpg

larger_box_pushbuttons.jpg

Last edited by Gerald D; Fri 26 August 2011 at 11:07..
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  #290  
Old Mon 01 August 2011, 17:02
melissa
Just call me: Melissa #83
 
Brighton (Ontario)
Canada
Dust Shoe

Next up was making a dust shoe. I purchased some "8020" aluminum profile to bolt the assembly to the y-car. My dust shoe is manually positioned, so it doesn't lift with the router. I may revise that later, but this works fine for now.

The brush is taken from a shop-vac nozzle from the hardware store. Bending it into the new shape was not pretty, but it works .

dust_shoe_parts.jpg

The piping is standard 4" PVC pipe. I found a "sewer adapter" which happens to fit dust-collection hose perfectly . I still need to take some photos of the hose support on the ceiling -- which uses a slide to accommodate the length of the table .

With the dust collection now functional, I could set about surfacing the table. I was astounded at the amount of dust collected. 1.5mm from the table filled the dust collector bag more than halfway .

surfacing_table.jpg
surfacing_table_2.jpg

Last edited by Gerald D; Fri 26 August 2011 at 11:08..
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  #291  
Old Mon 01 August 2011, 18:05
melissa
Just call me: Melissa #83
 
Brighton (Ontario)
Canada
MDF clamps

There have been some DXF's of MDF clamps posted on the site -- this is one of them. I manually nested the parts (fairly easy when they're the same shape).

The middle section is pocketed, to allow for a bolt to pass through, with a knob above the table. My plan is to drill 1/4" holes through the spoilboard in a regular pattern, and then use 1/4" threaded rod with knobs above and below for clamping.

cutting_clamps.jpg
clamps_closeup.jpg
clamps_released.jpg

The clamps are cut in two sections, and then glued together:

gluing_clamps.jpg

My solution for inexpensive knobs: cut them from MDF, and insert "T-nuts", which cost about 10c each. Sure beats $1+ for the fancy ones!

10c_knobs.jpg

Last edited by Gerald D; Fri 26 August 2011 at 11:07..
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  #292  
Old Mon 01 August 2011, 18:14
melissa
Just call me: Melissa #83
 
Brighton (Ontario)
Canada
Dust Collection: Thien Baffle

I thought that the dust quantity would be a problem, and surfacing the table confirmed it for me . Next up: building a Thien Baffle to separate the dust ahead of the dust collector.

I built a smaller version for my shop vac, which works astoundingly well. It was much easier to build this one, not needing to cut the circles with a jigsaw anymore .
cutting_thien_lid.jpg

I made the lid from two layers of 1/2" plywood, glued together with PL Premium adhesive. This is a polyurethane construction adhesive, which expands to fill gaps, and is very strong. The workpiece does need to be well clamped while curing, though:
thien_lid_glued_clamped.jpg
thien_lid_pl_premium.jpg

Hose parts are for 4" PVC sewer plumbing. Ideally, the elbow should be flush with the plywood. I'll see how this does, and may opt to add a "false lid" later, if it doesn't work as effectively as it should.
thien_lid_plumbing.jpg

Last edited by Gerald D; Fri 26 August 2011 at 11:07..
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  #293  
Old Mon 01 August 2011, 18:15
danilom
Just call me: Danilo #64
 
Novi Sad
Serbia
Hey those look just like mine clamps and the knobs too

I have to check my shop for missing ones !

good work, and they will serve you well, just a note, when doing something slippy like plastic or acrylic wrap the tip of the clamp with thin rubber, it helps.
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  #294  
Old Mon 01 August 2011, 18:28
Rusty Nuts
Just call me: Gary #86
 
Valley Grande, AL
United States of America
Hi Melissa,

Really nice build. Post some more photos of the clamps in use when you have completed them. When you glued the second spoil board down over the first, how did you clamp it to get even pressure across the boards? I'm thinking of routing dadoos down my spoil board and install "T" track for the clamp hold downs. I saw in an earlier post you installed your computer into the control box. How is this workin out and do you have to open the door to turn the computer on?

Gary

Last edited by domino11; Wed 13 August 2014 at 10:30..
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  #295  
Old Mon 01 August 2011, 18:30
melissa
Just call me: Melissa #83
 
Brighton (Ontario)
Canada
Quote:
Originally Posted by danilom View Post
good work, and they will serve you well, just a note, when doing something slippy like plastic or acrylic wrap the tip of the clamp with thin rubber, it helps.
Thanks for jogging my memory... I had an "oops" while cutting parts for the dust shoe.

I was cutting 2mm Lexan for the top surface of the dust shoe. Two holes (40mm and 107mm), and then the outer profile. I figured there wouldn't be THAT much force on it, so I taped around the edges with high-tack masking tape.

About halfway around the outer profile, the workpiece lifted off the table. I hit the yellow feedhold button on the car, which stopped the motion, but not the router . Next was the e-stop, now that the part was ruined anyways.

I will say it took a huge amount of self-discipline to NOT reach in and try to "save" the part. Lexan is cheap, compared to surgery and physiotherapy!

I'm making it a habit to not even lean on the MechMate, even when it's turned off. Much better to always treat the machine with respect, so that when things go wrong, the automatic reaction is to step back. With the proxies and the hard stops, there's little the machine could do to damage itself now. So all I need to do is make sure it doesn't damage me.
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  #296  
Old Mon 01 August 2011, 21:53
melissa
Just call me: Melissa #83
 
Brighton (Ontario)
Canada
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Nuts View Post
Hi Melissa,

When you glued the second spoil board down over the first, how did you clamp it to get even pressure across the boards? I'm thinking of routing dadoos down my spoil board and install "T" track for the clamp hold downs. I saw in an earlier post you installed your computer into the control box. How is this workin out and do you have to open the door to turn the computer on?
Gary
Hi Gary,

I drilled holes and used "particleboard screws" to clamp the second layer in place, as well as C-clamps around the edges. The screws have a very coarse wood thread, and a pan head. Once the glue was dry, I just removed them.

For the T-track, you need to consider what depth to install it at, and whether you're willing to cut into your spoilboard. You certainly don't want to hit the track. This is why I'm going with through-bolts.

The computer in the control box is working out great. I have its power supply switched from the big rotary ("Ensto") switch, so the computer stays on if I trigger an E-stop. For on/off and reset, I installed two momentary key switches on the control box. These trigger the contacts on the motherboard, the same way the little pushbuttons on a "normal" computer case do. I used key switches on purpose, so I can't accidentally turn off the computer by bumping a switch on the control box.

Melissa

Last edited by domino11; Wed 13 August 2014 at 10:30..
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  #297  
Old Tue 02 August 2011, 16:20
Rusty Nuts
Just call me: Gary #86
 
Valley Grande, AL
United States of America
Thanks Melissa,

I have a spare computer and now I think I'll disassemble and see if I can wire a momentary switch to it and if so I will strip it down. Did you mount a disc drive in the box or just did away with it? Do they make a USB adapter which can be mounted throught the contro box? Would like to transfer cutting files this way.

On my other cnc router I use "T" track and placed a scrap piece of luan under anything I cut completely through. This way I don't cut into my table. On your set up are you planning to pre drill equally spaced holes or just drill as needed for your through bolts?

I ordered my rack and pinions and also the tool steel plate for the Z slide today, so I should be getting close to all my mechanical build. The electrics will be a new challenge. I can't decide if I will install limit switches at this time of the build or wait. I have been reading up on this and have a question. If I have limits swithes at home position, is there an override to enable the gantry to bump the hard stops to square the gantry when first starting up the MM.

Gary

Last edited by domino11; Wed 13 August 2014 at 10:31..
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  #298  
Old Tue 02 August 2011, 17:05
melissa
Just call me: Melissa #83
 
Brighton (Ontario)
Canada
I used a 2.5" laptop hard drive for the computer, also mounted in the control box. Rather than build a mounting bracket for the drive, I just used 11-gauge solid wire, twisted around the motherboard and hard-drive screws. Good enough for a 50-gram drive .

For the clamp holes, I've drilled on approx. 200mm centers. We'll see how that goes. I made a DXF with intermediate holes as well, so I can add those later if needed.

I ran my machine without limit switches at first. It was easier to get the electronics wired and behaving without them, I found. Adding them was fairly simple, having completed the control box already (which was way more complicated). I opted for the relay solution (instead of the circuit board, posted elsewhere around here). Four relays mounted in a junction box on the y-car. Two of the proxies are already on the y-car. The other two are on the gantry, and just need a short extension to reach the y-car.

I haven't figured out the bit about squaring the gantry yet. I do know the proxies trigger before my gantry hits the stops. Hopefully someone else will chime in on how to do that .

Hope this helps,

Melissa

Last edited by domino11; Wed 13 August 2014 at 10:31..
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  #299  
Old Wed 03 August 2011, 11:11
melissa
Just call me: Melissa #83
 
Brighton (Ontario)
Canada
Forgot to mention: I used a Neutrik USB panel-mount connector. This way, I just have a short USB cable from the motherboard to the connector. Outside the box, I can plug in a thumb drive to load the GCODE.

The MechMate computer is not connected to the network at all. This means I can do away with all kinds of things in the operating system, most notably antivirus software.

My total "boot time" from power-on until mach3 is ready to cut, is about 90 seconds.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg neutrik_usb.jpg (34.5 KB, 456 views)
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  #300  
Old Wed 03 August 2011, 19:35
Rusty Nuts
Just call me: Gary #86
 
Valley Grande, AL
United States of America
Thanks Melissa, I'll have to find me a USB panel mount. I'll go ahead without the limit switches at first like you did. I have never had any on my other router but would like to install them on the MM. Lets hope some one chimes in on squaring the granty. My pinions arrived today and I'm hoping the track will arrive by Friday, that way I can install and true my rails. How are you liking your steppers with the gearboxes?

Post some pics when you use the new clamps.

Gary

Last edited by domino11; Wed 13 August 2014 at 10:31..
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