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  #1  
Old Fri 27 February 2009, 14:35
MariusL
Just call me: Marius #22
 
Centurion
South Africa
V-Wheels machined from plastics

Copied from elsewhere:

. . . . . . I am using Ertalyte wheels. They are a bit softer that the steel. . . . .
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  #2  
Old Fri 27 February 2009, 22:05
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Curious about the life of those Ertalyte wheels - sometimes I wonder if we can dump the wheels and replace them with solid plastic slide blocks, still on the v-rail, (like a lathe bed) . . . . .
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  #3  
Old Sat 28 February 2009, 00:14
MariusL
Just call me: Marius #22
 
Centurion
South Africa
Personally I would not give up on the wheels. The added friction that the slide block give will not be practical especially on larger machines. What I would look at is to increase the contact area. I am looking at designing an extrustion that will give about 10mm contact area on each side.
I am monitoring the Ertalyte wheels closely to see how they hold up. So far not a sign of wear. Also the machine runs very quite so it will be a bonus if they last.
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  #4  
Old Wed 08 April 2009, 06:10
MariusL
Just call me: Marius #22
 
Centurion
South Africa
Ertalyte wheels

Gerald,
The machine has been working non-stop for many weeks now and the ertalyte wheels dont show any signs of decay yet. They have not yet bedded and I think it might be a good alternative. The machine noise is also very low. Kobus came round the other day and commented on the low noise level so I take it must be a lot better than the metal wheels.
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  #5  
Old Wed 08 April 2009, 07:04
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Marius, that is great news on the Ertalyte wheels.

Kobus's machine has direct drive motors, which makes a machine sound quite rough. I guess his comment was based on this aspect. I don't think that steel/plastic wheels will make a big difference on noise, but I may still be proved wrong. :-)
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  #6  
Old Sun 31 May 2009, 13:09
MariusL
Just call me: Marius #22
 
Centurion
South Africa
Gerald,
Many many hours later - the machine works very hard and every day. Still no sign of the wheels giving up. I cut many multi layer 3D moulds from foam. The foam tends to stick to everything due to static. The jobs are mostly 12 hours plus.
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  #7  
Old Sun 31 May 2009, 13:46
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Ja Marius, even if this machine is kept simple, it still is a workhorse. Thanks for keeping us posted on the wheel life.

Does the sticking foam build up so far that it stops the machine? (in other words, are you forced to keep cleaning off the buildup a couple of times per day?)
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  #8  
Old Mon 01 June 2009, 00:34
MariusL
Just call me: Marius #22
 
Centurion
South Africa
Gerald,
No not at all. I clean it maybe one a week. It makes small patches of build-up on the tracks. If it is not cleaned the tendency is for the muck to build up on spots where there is dirt already. So it grows. I must say that the deposit is never very thick - it seems to be flattened by the wheel and have very little effect. If a brush is fitted both side of the wheel there will be no problem whatsoever. I have not had time to fit them yet.
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  #9  
Old Tue 13 October 2009, 14:55
MACHINEMAN
Just call me: Garth
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Marius
what size did you do you Ertalyte wheels?
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  #10  
Old Tue 13 October 2009, 15:20
MariusL
Just call me: Marius #22
 
Centurion
South Africa
Garth,
As far as I remember, we just copied the metal V bearing that was specified in the design documentation. I did not want to have problems with other items not fitting so I stuck to that size. They have been going for a long time now and they work very hard. No sign of giving up yet.
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  #11  
Old Mon 19 October 2009, 05:19
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Marius,
I’am bit curious… May I ask you to share a few photos of your PET wheels ?
Are they still ok today ?
Thanks, Robert
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  #12  
Old Mon 19 October 2009, 05:35
MariusL
Just call me: Marius #22
 
Centurion
South Africa
Robert,
Yes the machine is working just fine and the wheels are as good as new. I will post some pics soon.
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  #13  
Old Mon 19 October 2009, 18:06
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Thanks for this reply & great to read it is still in a fine working state !
BTW, next time you post those photos, tell us more about how you managed to make the inner race bearing hold ?
Robert
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  #14  
Old Mon 19 October 2009, 18:15
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Nylatron or Ertalyte ?

Copied from here:

Gerald, in regard to this post, can one make wheel with Nylatron ( BTW, Nylatron is nice stuff in my experience & opinion...machines well with most woodworking tools ! ) ?
I’ve used UHMW, HDPE, Nylatron…but Ertalyte ??
Intimidated by this material I’ve never heard of
How can it compare vs Nylatron for this V-wheel application?
Regard, Robert
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  #15  
Old Mon 19 October 2009, 21:59
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
I have very little experience & knowledge of plastics, so I would rather not say which will be a better plastic wheel. Nylatron looks and sounds good, but I really have no idea. Personally, I am slightly surprised that the Ertalyte is working so well, but I did realise that us DIY CNC'ers are getting too fussy about super-hard wheels (and rails).
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  #16  
Old Tue 20 October 2009, 00:10
MariusL
Just call me: Marius #22
 
Centurion
South Africa
Robert,
It looks like I managed to displace my CAD drawing of the part so I cant attach it. The bearing was press fit and we cut a groove for a retainer circlip that fits exactly on the bearing. I attach a drawing of one of the other parts that make use of the same concept.
Attached Files
File Type: dxf bearing bush section detail.DXF (156.4 KB, 374 views)
File Type: dxf bearing bush x axis.DXF (119.4 KB, 280 views)
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  #17  
Old Tue 20 October 2009, 04:40
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Thanks for the reply, Gerald & Marius.
Marius, you got my curiosity & interest hooked, looking forward to see those !
Thanks a lot, Robert
(Gerald, thanks for placing my post here !)
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  #18  
Old Sun 14 February 2010, 08:39
PEU
Just call me: Pablo
 
Buenos Aires
Argentina
regarding the PET (ertalyte) V wheels, do the plans allow for a circlip at both sides? or you made them wider than the metal ones to allow them?
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  #19  
Old Tue 16 February 2010, 04:59
MariusL
Just call me: Marius #22
 
Centurion
South Africa
We made them wider to hold the clips but the diameter is still the same.
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  #20  
Old Tue 16 February 2010, 09:26
Tokamak
Just call me: John #121
 
Monrovia (ca)
United States of America
Found this data sheet on-line.

This company sells 2 inch dia 4 foot rod for $77. This would be enough for 64 wheels.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf ertalyte_pet_p.pdf (42.4 KB, 275 views)
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  #21  
Old Tue 16 February 2010, 09:44
Tokamak
Just call me: John #121
 
Monrovia (ca)
United States of America
Why use the bearing at all? Drill the wheel for a shoulder bolt and let the wheel ride on the bolt.

Quote from Quadrant
"It is also ideally suited for applications involving soft metal and plastic mating surfaces"
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  #22  
Old Tue 16 February 2010, 09:59
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
John, there is a lot of side loading on the wheel. If you put the wheel between lots of sliding surfaces, there is a real danger it will bind up and decide to slide on the rail instead.
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  #23  
Old Sat 20 February 2010, 20:52
JLFIN
Just call me: Jim
 
glenwood iowa
United States of America
It is my understanding that(Ertalyte, PET ) is in the acetel (Delrin family ) only better because of it's ability to resist moisture absorbtion ( although very low anyway) I believe delrin would work as well at alot less then PET. I have made machined parts out of both mat'ls for years.
One more note from comment above. Statement about Nylatron, have made many many camfollowers out of this mat'l which is about a 1.5" ball with a .5" x 1.5" shoulder bolt and they run quite some time with not alot of contact and a very heavy load... although I also think in this application bearings are cheap.
( Have also had them seize up and slide along on O.D.) I also do not recommend running them on a standard bolt if that was what you were thinking. you would want a shoulder bolt

Last edited by JLFIN; Sat 20 February 2010 at 21:01..
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  #24  
Old Fri 17 December 2010, 02:28
JonnyRizla
Just call me: Jonny
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Hi Marius, I am in the process of sourcing my V-Rollers, and was wondering if yours are still holding out well? Where did you get the Ertalyte from, and will any engineering shop be able to machine it for me?
Thanks, Jonny
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  #25  
Old Fri 17 December 2010, 03:04
MariusL
Just call me: Marius #22
 
Centurion
South Africa
Jonny,
The rollers are as good as the day we made them. I am just busy converting the machine into a plasma cutter.
Any engineering shop will cut the rollers for you. Ertalyte machines very easy and they should just copy the standard v-rollers. As far as I remember there is a drawing of such a roller with the data pack.

You should be able to acquire Ertalyte from any plastics supplier. I don't know where you get it from as my engineering shop got the stuff on my behalf. Most of them should know the product.
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  #26  
Old Fri 17 December 2010, 03:43
JonnyRizla
Just call me: Jonny
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Thanks Marius, good luck with the conversion. I managed to source the Ertalyte from Quadrant Engineering in Cape Town - less than R600/m and you can order in multiples of 100mm, so I think this is a really good option.
Cheers, Jonny
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  #27  
Old Mon 20 December 2010, 02:02
JonnyRizla
Just call me: Jonny
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Hi, I ended up buying a nylon rod over the Ertalyte under the advise of the salesperson - he said it would be harder wearing, and cheaper. With Ertalyte apparently it is more expensive because of other chemical properties that were irrelevant to the application. Does anyone have a second opinion on this, as I can still swap it back to Ertalyte?
Also I was wondering how do I monitor the wear on my tyres - will it be obvious to the naked eye, or do I need to somehow measure it with a vernier and right angle?
Regards, Jonny
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  #28  
Old Mon 20 December 2010, 02:09
MariusL
Just call me: Marius #22
 
Centurion
South Africa
Jonny,
I would not use nylon as it does not have the same properties under pressure as what the Ertalyte has. My bet will be that the Nylon wheels will be done with much faster that the Ertalyte. At the time of going this route we did a whole lot of research and the common consensus was that Ertalyte was the best replacement for the steel roller.
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  #29  
Old Mon 20 December 2010, 02:12
MariusL
Just call me: Marius #22
 
Centurion
South Africa
On second thought, I don't think the salesman has a clue if he advised you that nylon will be harder wearing than Ertalyte. If you want I will dig the specs up to prove. Actually Nylon is not an option.
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  #30  
Old Mon 20 December 2010, 05:13
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Nylon isn't that stiff...
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