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  #31  
Old Sun 21 August 2011, 18:51
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Call Rick at Superior Bearing in Ohio. You will pay double the price for the BWC vee rail from McMaster. He is listed all over the forum. He also is the premier source for bushings and bearings too.
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  #32  
Old Mon 22 August 2011, 20:36
JasonC
Just call me: Jason
 
Soldotna,AK
United States of America
Ok thanks, already on it.

Question, the X beam, Im doing a 5'X10', I checked locally here and there are a few options on the 8" C channel, wall thickness is .220 or .303 of a inch...which should i use?
And should I place 6 legs instead of 4?

Thanks
Jason
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  #33  
Old Mon 22 August 2011, 21:07
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
4 legs
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  #34  
Old Mon 22 August 2011, 21:27
JasonC
Just call me: Jason
 
Soldotna,AK
United States of America
also on drawing 10 20 440 S A the "material: 100mm x 50mm Rec Steel tubing. wall thinkness 2mm". is there a inch version? And if its 2"x4" will it work with the gantry welding and have problems.
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  #35  
Old Mon 22 August 2011, 21:39
timberlinemd
Just call me: Steve #66
 
Arizona
United States of America
10 20 440 2"x4"x .083"
C channel .303 or .220 either will work
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  #36  
Old Mon 22 August 2011, 21:43
JasonC
Just call me: Jason
 
Soldotna,AK
United States of America
THANK YOUUUUUUU Much.

Time for the steel purchase...eeesh.

Jason
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  #37  
Old Tue 23 August 2011, 04:46
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
The tube can be inch sized 2"x4" but I wouldn't use channel.
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  #38  
Old Tue 23 August 2011, 08:23
JasonC
Just call me: Jason
 
Soldotna,AK
United States of America
The channel question was just for the X beams, square tube on the gantry.
Thank allot folks.
Looks like ill be starting here in the next few weeks ill start a build thread. For newbie like me if you read over and over the info the learning curve gets better then you start to see it in your head, I have been studying it for about 2 weeks and now have a pretty solid grasp of everything.

Thank you
Jason
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  #39  
Old Tue 23 August 2011, 08:47
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Keep reviewing everything and reading the build threads. That is the whole point. As you continue to look at everyones builds you will see the steps you need to build your machine.
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  #40  
Old Tue 23 August 2011, 09:03
JasonC
Just call me: Jason
 
Soldotna,AK
United States of America
I have a prefab cnc milling machine so its not totally new material. But the info on here is priceless.'

Jas
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  #41  
Old Thu 25 August 2011, 22:27
JasonC
Just call me: Jason
 
Soldotna,AK
United States of America
Mcmaster Carr shipping is FAST! product looks great. Rack and pinion and cable carrier. Well packed. And got the table steel today..

Jas
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  #42  
Old Sun 11 September 2011, 13:01
JasonC
Just call me: Jason
 
Soldotna,AK
United States of America
What would be a ideal computer to use for the MM, not too pricie but will handle anything I throw at it.. I want to be able to use Rhinocad,Aspire,3D,2D, Mach3. No internet! I would also like to gut the thing on useless software. I have had allot of trouble free luck with all my Dells.

Jason


also received all the laser cut parts the other day. Thanks Mike.
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  #43  
Old Sun 11 September 2011, 14:22
danilom
Just call me: Danilo #64
 
Novi Sad
Serbia
I think you could get HP DC7100, add some RAM and be fine to use it.
They appeared some time ago in batches here on sales in Europe maybe in the USA also.
Case is heavy weight champion and the power supply is extraordinary, cooling is perfect although they use 3.0HT Intel prescott which gets a bit hotter than new c2d or i-family processors.
I have one and used it as main computer, also with Mach for testing screens and other settings, not on production machine.
Also had one IBM Thinkcentre and stay away from that as I tested one and it gave me headache trying to find the reason for some glitches on rapids.
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  #44  
Old Mon 12 September 2011, 04:22
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
I don't like the idea of doing my CAD drawing & working on the CAM in a pile of wood dust... Hence an isolated & dedicated PC for my MM, nothing other than the OS & the motion control software. which is Ubuntu & EMC2.
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  #45  
Old Mon 12 September 2011, 09:38
JasonC
Just call me: Jason
 
Soldotna,AK
United States of America
I was looking at a new Dell 560, and either have my local computer guy or I do a minimal OS install, custom order it all ready as wanted. I have one already and it performs great. I just have no experience with Mach3 and giving it the plenty of power to run glitch free. Also the CAD on it will be just for emergencies not the main work station. The 32 bit is a pain.

Jason
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  #46  
Old Sat 24 September 2011, 18:09
JasonC
Just call me: Jason
 
Soldotna,AK
United States of America
Starting the electrics

Can anyone tell me if this is correct, starting BASIC.

Jason
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 00888.jpg (175.6 KB, 607 views)
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  #47  
Old Sat 24 September 2011, 18:11
JasonC
Just call me: Jason
 
Soldotna,AK
United States of America
Its 220 also.

Im sorry about such a dumb question but im having a tuff time wrapping my head around everything for this build with my own lifes BS.

Jason
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  #48  
Old Sat 24 September 2011, 18:47
bradm
Just call me: Brad #10
 
Somerville(MA)
United States of America
If I'm seeing this correctly, then at the bottom left, the leftmost switch is the NO to 'start' and the right switch is the NC to 'stop'.

It looks correct -> IF the main contactor coil is a 220V coil.

Presumably, not shown is the power infeed to the safety switch in the middle at the bottom.
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  #49  
Old Sat 24 September 2011, 20:01
JasonC
Just call me: Jason
 
Soldotna,AK
United States of America
Its 220 power from wall(not seen wired)...... to the big on /off, red/yellow turn switch..... to the contactor with the red"O" green "l" push buttom switch to activate it..... to the toroid trans. does that help clearify?

Jason
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  #50  
Old Sun 25 September 2011, 18:55
Regnar
Just call me: Russell #69
 
Mobile, Alabama
United States of America
Jason,

My only advice is to start using some wire management. As the box starts to fill up those few extra inches here and there are really going to annoy you and get in the way for other wire routing. They could also cause you problems later down the road with noise. (Note: Example is the AC lines next to the Breakout Board.)

This just just me but wire nuts are a huge no no. I have seen to many come loose and the wires will start to arc and melt everything around it. I am not saying what you have done is wrong just something I wouldn't do.

Welcome to the forum and happy building.
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  #51  
Old Sun 25 September 2011, 19:28
JasonC
Just call me: Jason
 
Soldotna,AK
United States of America
This isnt the finished product but a dry fit. I have totally revamped the whole thing. No wire nuts got it. thanks. Im going to be painting the back plate. This is just kinda a kitchen table setup.


thank you
Jason
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  #52  
Old Mon 26 September 2011, 07:50
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Please do practice electrical safety. Even though its a dry fit. You still has a MechMate to complete!
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  #53  
Old Mon 26 September 2011, 09:00
JasonC
Just call me: Jason
 
Soldotna,AK
United States of America
Yes, I wired my own house. Im just dont want to fry anything when I hit the main power. If I were to wire everything 110v I wouldnt have any questions. But im trying to wire as much 220v as I can for better use of electricity.
Im at the PMDX-126 and trying to wire it 220v but there is only 2 connecters(J8)with no markings on J8 to indicate ++ or +-, and I have 2 hots and a 1 neutral, and is it safe to wire it from the "T" side of the contactor. If I run two hots to the PMDX and no ground well without a ground the getting shock factor is there??? Or should I just keep it simple and 110v the PMDX ad stop messing with trying to 220 everything I can.

Jason
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  #54  
Old Mon 26 September 2011, 09:46
Regnar
Just call me: Russell #69
 
Mobile, Alabama
United States of America
You probably should do what ever you feel most comfortable with. I dont think having 220v for you power into the BOB will have any advantages. You can still run 220 into the box then split it up into 2 circuits, One for the router and the other for everything else.
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  #55  
Old Mon 26 September 2011, 12:00
bradm
Just call me: Brad #10
 
Somerville(MA)
United States of America
You have two choices for the PMDX-126; You can jumper it for 110v, and then wire one hot and one neutral to J8 (polarity doesn't matter). Or you can jumper it for 220v and wire both hots to J8. The PMDX instructions indicate that there is no safety ground connection required (Section 10.5).

In terms of powering the PMDX-126 from the L or T side of the contactor, it depends on what behavior you want. If you wire from the T side, the BOB won't be active until you fire up the drivers; on the L side the BOB is active as soon as you turn on the main power.

One reason you might want to keep the BOB active is if you have a VFD / spindle combination. Because you don't want to shutdown a VFD while in operation, you may also want to keep the control signals (from the BOB) up during an EStop. It probably doesn't matter much for a router setup.
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  #56  
Old Mon 26 September 2011, 12:11
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
THe E-Stop function is for safety and should kill the machine (And the router). The RB01 kit has 3 buttons one of which is stop that can be wired into the BOB for Software stops. So I think any down stream electrical piece in the cabinet (Including passing power to the inputs of the VFD) should come on the down stream (T) side of the contactor. This way you have the master on off switch on the dial and if needed the E-stop circuit to kill the whole machine if needed , including the router. If a controlled stop is needed press the stop button. I tried to find a "Pause" label but could not find one for the RB01 kit.
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  #57  
Old Mon 26 September 2011, 20:01
JasonC
Just call me: Jason
 
Soldotna,AK
United States of America
Excellent now the learning curve is greating better, The 2 hot leads to J8. The rest Im good on.... THANKK YOUUUU folks.

Jason
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  #58  
Old Wed 05 October 2011, 08:57
JasonC
Just call me: Jason
 
Soldotna,AK
United States of America
Are there any examples of a setup with a PMDX-126 and a PMDX-133 wired up complete as a comparison. There isnt much mentioned about J11-J13 on the PMDX-133.

Thank you
Jason
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  #59  
Old Wed 05 October 2011, 13:28
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
All you should have as far as wiring is the long ribbon cable from the 126 to the 1st 133 and then from 133 to 133 board. The 2 short ribbon cables are for the Smooth Stepper Wiring.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg PMDX 126 to 133 to 133.jpg (43.7 KB, 451 views)
File Type: jpg PMDX 126 and Smooth Stepper.jpg (36.3 KB, 452 views)
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  #60  
Old Wed 05 October 2011, 20:03
JasonC
Just call me: Jason
 
Soldotna,AK
United States of America
Then nothing on the J11,J12,J13?

"Motor Current Connectors"

Section 3.5 in the pmdx-133 manual.
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