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  #31  
Old Wed 30 November 2011, 12:59
dbinokc
Just call me: DB #118
 
Oklahoma
United States of America
Disregard previous question. I think I see everything I need at automation direct.
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  #32  
Old Wed 30 November 2011, 13:51
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
I have a control box I sell that includes a 20x20x10 cabinet. I also have electrical and 4 and 8 core wire. All ready to ship if needed.
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  #33  
Old Wed 30 November 2011, 13:52
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showt...99&postcount=1

Kit has adjust a little as has the price. But you can see the basics in that thread.
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  #34  
Old Wed 30 November 2011, 17:03
oliver2257
Just call me: Stephen
 
Redwood City, CA
United States of America
I recommend trying Mike for parts. Automation Direct has all the items, I find them a very good supplier with good quality and they come in large quantities, way more that we would normally use. For wire, many suppliers often have substantial cutting charge. Firstly, getting the parts from Mike gave me, a very novice with Mechmate wiring, some security and guidance about where to go and what I would need. As I went along, things started to come together and looking back, it would have taken me longer, with more mistakes to go it by myself.
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  #35  
Old Thu 01 December 2011, 11:55
dbinokc
Just call me: DB #118
 
Oklahoma
United States of America
Is there any reason not to build in the order of control panel, gantry, z-axis and then table.
Because of space constraints, I think it will work better to save building the table frame for last.
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  #36  
Old Thu 01 December 2011, 13:43
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
It's actually better to do the Control Panel (kitchen project) first. This is the bulk of the table build and most important. The table and all it's metal parts can be built in a long weekend or two. Plus, the electronics are the more expensive part of the project, if you can fund that first, you are more apt to finish your build.

Best,
Sean
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  #37  
Old Thu 01 December 2011, 13:58
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
One of the best things about the MechMate is that you can build it however you want. I agree that if you get the controls built and motors turning you have a huge step in getting the machine build completed.

Another way I like to tell people to look at it is take on the tough parts first so you can get them behind you. If you are scared to do welding, dive in and get it going. If your structural in nature and good at welding and mechanics, tackle the electronics first.

Again the approach is up to you.
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  #38  
Old Mon 05 December 2011, 08:02
dbinokc
Just call me: DB #118
 
Oklahoma
United States of America
Does the RSS feed work for site?
I found a post by Gerald, from about 5 years ago, saying it was enabled, but when I try the rss link http://www.mechmate.com/forums/external.php?type=rss
I do not get any posts appearing.
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  #39  
Old Wed 04 September 2013, 22:18
dbinokc
Just call me: DB #118
 
Oklahoma
United States of America
After over a year delay, I am finally moving forward with my mechmate build. I will most likely be building 4 foot by 6 foot. I would like to build bigger, but I just do not have the space.

One thing I would like to add is a plotter pen. I am thinking something that would be activated by a solenoid to drop the pen down. Has anyone done something like this yet?

My main use will be for cutting/drilling sheet metal that will be bent in a brake. It would be nice to have all sight lines and any notes already printed on the piece when it comes off machine.
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  #40  
Old Wed 18 September 2013, 21:40
dbinokc
Just call me: DB #118
 
Oklahoma
United States of America
I have ordered in a bunch of parts from Mike and other places to start work on the control panel.

One thing that seems to be lacking is some kind of a power bus bar with the contactor as its input and splitting out to everything that needs 120V.
Is everyone just cramming all the wire ends into the contactor or is there something else being done?

I have looked several examples of control panel pictures, but it is hard to follow where all the wires are really going.
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  #41  
Old Thu 19 September 2013, 13:14
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
I suggest you look at the bus connectors that are in the Controll Box and I can get you more of them if needed. But what all are you powering?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg CC2.5 10.jpg (11.5 KB, 796 views)
File Type: jpg ER2.5WHITE.jpg (13.2 KB, 791 views)
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  #42  
Old Thu 19 September 2013, 13:16
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
These do not look like much, but are rated at 20amps / 600volts
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  #43  
Old Thu 19 September 2013, 13:28
dbinokc
Just call me: DB #118
 
Oklahoma
United States of America
I remember seeing those in the box Mike. I was not sure if that was what they were for. I will take a closer look at them this evening.

I will be pretty much following the 120V schematic in the plans. It looks like I need 120V going to
1. Torroid transformer.
2. 5V DIN power supply(I bought that)
3. Power to the router head
4. Power for the EStop loop
5. PMDX 126.
6. Possible external 120V outlets for computer and dust removal.
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  #44  
Old Thu 19 September 2013, 19:00
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
You can use the stuff in the box however you like

Or I can get you more
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  #45  
Old Thu 19 September 2013, 22:13
dbinokc
Just call me: DB #118
 
Oklahoma
United States of America
It looks like only a single 5 position bridge was included. Is that what is normally supplied?
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  #46  
Old Fri 20 September 2013, 16:04
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Their were two in the kit actually.
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  #47  
Old Sun 13 October 2013, 21:42
dbinokc
Just call me: DB #118
 
Oklahoma
United States of America
Picked up my steel this week. I will probably need to pick up a few odds and ends, but I wanted to get all the big stuff I would need my trailer for.

Spent today pressure washing the steel. I am used to the usual mill scale, but I think this place used old motor oil for a cutting fluid. It was the filthiest steel I had ever laid hands on. All clean now though. Blew it all off with compressed air to minimize any rusting.

Working through final details on my CAD drawings. It will probably be another week or two before I actually start cutting metal.
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  #48  
Old Mon 28 October 2013, 16:05
dbinokc
Just call me: DB #118
 
Oklahoma
United States of America
What is used to mount the electronics boards inside of the control box. I have standoffs on order, but how do I mount the standoffs to the back panel.

Do I use captive nuts? I do not want to use plain nuts since if I ever needed to remove something, I would have to pull the entire back panel.
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  #49  
Old Mon 28 October 2013, 18:03
Mrayhursh
Just call me: Hurshy
 
Riverview, Florida
United States of America
panel

Hi I use to live in Oklahoma City, and Ponca.
Does your electrical box have a removable metal panel. Drill and tab that panel as needed. Nuts work but I wouldn't want to remove the panel just to fix one item. The box is usually mounted on the wall and there is very little vibration unless you have another Oklahoma twister coming through. Best of luck.
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  #50  
Old Mon 28 October 2013, 19:21
dbinokc
Just call me: DB #118
 
Oklahoma
United States of America
Yes, the panel is removable. It is the one that Metalhead sells.

However I am not sure if the thickness is enough for me to want to trust tapping it. Especially that heavy power supply.
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  #51  
Old Mon 28 October 2013, 19:34
dbinokc
Just call me: DB #118
 
Oklahoma
United States of America
A progress update. All the steel for the sides is now cut and ready to weld.
I thought I would get to do it this weekend, but it rained on Saturday.
I have all the parts for the gantry laid out as well as the electronics.
I drilled holes in the control panel for the heat sink and will do the cutout next weekend.
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  #52  
Old Mon 28 October 2013, 22:53
Mrayhursh
Just call me: Hurshy
 
Riverview, Florida
United States of America
Ditto on the Box

Yep I bought the same box from Mike. It is fine. I used various size screws and had no issue. You can do a search on mrayhursh and you will see mine.
I am going to go back and add a couple of items just for the heck of it. Keep in touch and if you have any issues please be sure to ask.
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  #53  
Old Sun 03 November 2013, 16:08
dbinokc
Just call me: DB #118
 
Oklahoma
United States of America
Finally some pics

I am almost done with welding the table sides.

Attached is a pic of one of the sides. The welds aren't pretty, but they should hold and the table is straight.

I still have a little more welding to do to attach supports for casters. After that on to painting.

Another pic attached of a handy tool for moving heavy pieces around. If you have a tractor with a front end loader, a set of light duty forks are worth their weight in gold.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg table_640_480.jpg (233.6 KB, 574 views)
File Type: jpg forks_640by480.jpg (266.1 KB, 573 views)
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  #54  
Old Sun 03 November 2013, 17:39
Mrayhursh
Just call me: Hurshy
 
Riverview, Florida
United States of America
Big Yellow Toy

Boy, I want to move out to the rural area here in Florida so I can get a Big Yellow Toy. I would probably start digging a big hole an cause a sink hole. Looks like your table is coming along. Don't worry about pretty welds a grinder makes them all shine.
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  #55  
Old Sat 09 November 2013, 16:31
dbinokc
Just call me: DB #118
 
Oklahoma
United States of America
Frame Painted

Got the sides painted today. The weathers been holding out pretty well, but I want to get all the big outside stuff done before that changes.

Hope I got the color right!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg painted_frame_640x480.jpg (287.6 KB, 520 views)
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  #56  
Old Sat 09 November 2013, 20:52
Mrayhursh
Just call me: Hurshy
 
Riverview, Florida
United States of America
Another Big Blue Beast

I see that you have created another Big Blue Beast. It can feed on the blue grass you created. It is going good. Are you going to get it inside before the weather changes?
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  #57  
Old Sat 09 November 2013, 21:21
dbinokc
Just call me: DB #118
 
Oklahoma
United States of America
The sides will be indoors tomorrow. The big trick will be moving it without scratching up the new paint job.
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  #58  
Old Mon 18 November 2013, 11:51
dbinokc
Just call me: DB #118
 
Oklahoma
United States of America
Got the cross rails cut, drilled and painted. Not enough time to stand the table up for the first time.

One other problem I am seeing. Even though I have made the table a little smaller at 4 foot by 6 foot capacity, I have still going to have problems fitting it into my shop. I have a second shop building with plenty of space, but no electrical. I am going to have to decide what to move into the unpowered building before I can really stand up the table.
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  #59  
Old Sat 23 November 2013, 16:09
dbinokc
Just call me: DB #118
 
Oklahoma
United States of America
Table Standing Up

Got the table stood up today. Next is to get the cross bracing fitted so the table will not rock from side to side. Not going to happen this weekend though. Too cold and icy to drag out the tools to cut metal.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg table_up_small.jpg (123.3 KB, 413 views)
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  #60  
Old Sun 24 November 2013, 08:21
darren salyer
Just call me: Darren #101
 
Wentzville mo
United States of America
Looking Good.
I feel your pain, 19 degrees here this AM.....
Not worth heating the shop to tinker.
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