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  #91  
Old Fri 25 September 2009, 00:05
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
Robert,

I didn't forget you I just forgot to post. I called my supplier and they wouldn't give me a price over the phone. Sorry.
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  #92  
Old Fri 25 September 2009, 05:07
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Not to worry nils, after all I’m not wondering where is, or what is the cheapest piece for raw tool steel. I’m simply curious and interrogative on prices for this Z-plate to those who got them machined at a local machine shop ( mat. included).
Raw tool steel sells in std sizes, and that would mean you would have to pay for the extra 48 sq inch not needed ( one of the std sizes is : 4” x 36” = 144 sq inch ). A machine chop may actually have much bigger piece and cut only what is needed / you request, thus making it lower cost per sq inch, making the total prices not such a big difference after all.
Let’s not forget Nils, O1 tool steel may be one of the cheapest at +/- 70$-USd for a std 4 x 36”.
No... what I’m curious about is I mention earlier is why such a huge price gap in the quotes i was given ( 120$ to 550$) for this flat without holes, only material ( tool steel) & chamfers…. although I have my suspension

….I’m simply curious as maybe some others too …. It's slipping & getting out of the topic / reason of my survey questioning
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  #93  
Old Sun 29 November 2009, 20:24
riesvantwisk
Just call me: Ries #46
 
Quito
Ecuador
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Grinding the Z-plate, same method as grinding X and Y rails?

hey All,

is the method shown here : http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=311

still the preferred method for grinding the z-plate, or can I simply use the skate which was used to grind the X and Y rails?

If I use the skate, should I add an extra 150mm orso to the length of drawing 10 40 330 S so I can grind it properly?

Ries
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  #94  
Old Mon 30 November 2009, 04:23
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Hi Ries
Since photos a worth more than words…. Here is a link to my answer
Needless to say more I believe, BUT, if you’d like more, let us know !
Amicalement, Robert
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  #95  
Old Mon 30 November 2009, 05:50
riesvantwisk
Just call me: Ries #46
 
Quito
Ecuador
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Robert,

indeed... that pictures tells is all!

Did you buy the z-plate to long so you could grind the end parts properly?

Ries
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  #96  
Old Mon 30 November 2009, 07:45
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Ries,
They come in std length. You what a 36inch ( +/- 914mm). Check your local source for O1 or A2 steel plate or look at those : http://www.mcmaster.com/#89705k282/=4q8aiz
http://www.mcmaster.com/#90175k174/=4q8b6h

Good luck, Robert
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  #97  
Old Mon 30 November 2009, 11:35
riesvantwisk
Just call me: Ries #46
 
Quito
Ecuador
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Robert,

thank you for that info... now I understand now where you get these beautiful plates!

I am not sure if I can get that quality of steel here, so I might need to go for mild steel. However, we do have a mill here in the shop so we can rectify it.

From what I did understood is that we will buy the (mild) steel 900x105mm that is cut on a guillotine, then we will rectify it to the correct size.
For my kinda work this will work just fine.

Ries
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  #98  
Old Thu 10 December 2009, 09:40
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
I see in one of the photos the Mamba Wheels drop off the top of the plate. Could I just make the slide and tube 70mm longer to keep the wheels on the plate?

PS - I am finally learning something scholl could never teach me... the metric system
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  #99  
Old Thu 10 December 2009, 09:53
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Mike you could...the point of the slide tracking out of the lower rollers is to get the TOOL BIT attached to the spindle/router at a higher Z off the table and clear of your part.

Not so important when cutting things under 2" thick...but on thicker material cuts, it's imperative that you have this high tool retraction height.

Did this make sense?
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  #100  
Old Fri 11 December 2009, 11:38
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
I understand that. I just figured that making everything a littlr longer would make it stronger...
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  #101  
Old Sun 07 February 2010, 10:07
GaryS
Just call me: Gary
 
Johnson City, TN
United States of America
Why not tilt the table saw blade at 45 degrees and use the existing rip fence? There would be no noticable wear on the metal cutting disc, no setup, and the resulting cut would be flat.
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  #102  
Old Sun 07 February 2010, 11:23
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
That table saw could not tilt.
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  #103  
Old Tue 11 January 2011, 23:31
Red_boards
Just call me: Red #91
 
Melbourne
Australia
Z-slide made from 350 grade steel

I've had some difficulty tracking down a shop that will do me a z-slide out of guage plate, and the price is in the $hundreds. So before I go to Queensland to get one fabricated where SurfCNC got his, I'm considering getting a harder grade of steel (350 grade) cut by a plate processing plant @ $32 and grinding my own rails and drilling the various holes. I've read that this is possible and the only consideration is that it might wear a bit faster than the guage plate. Any other advice?
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  #104  
Old Tue 11 January 2011, 23:49
Alan_c
Just call me: Alan (#11)
 
Cape Town (Western Cape)
South Africa
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If you go the route of the steel plate, have it cut longer to allow for the skate overrun, and then trim it to size after grinding the bevel. (cant remember exactly but I think its 100mm at both ends)
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  #105  
Old Wed 12 January 2011, 13:11
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Yes, you need min 3.8 inches over over run...thus, 100mm longer on each end. SO, if your ordering steel, you need to order a piece 200mm longer.

I actually have fabricated the slides in 2 different fashions. One, I used cold rolled flat steel and just cut the ground area to length. The second one I used the standard 24" long piece and added via a bench vise and clamps some extra material on both ends for over run during the grinding.

Sean
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  #106  
Old Wed 12 January 2011, 23:39
Red_boards
Just call me: Red #91
 
Melbourne
Australia
Hi Alan and Sean.
Thanks for that. Yes, the 1m strip is coming in at that price. Sean, I had seen your clamp to extend solution, but that looked too hard for me
No problems with wear on the home made versions, then?
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  #107  
Old Thu 13 January 2011, 06:46
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
No issues, all still working just fine - as designed!
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  #108  
Old Mon 16 May 2011, 04:46
delco
Just call me: Daniel
 
NSW
Australia
Quote:
Originally Posted by Red_boards View Post
I've had some difficulty tracking down a shop that will do me a z-slide out of guage plate, and the price is in the $hundreds. So before I go to Queensland to get one fabricated where SurfCNC got his, I'm considering getting a harder grade of steel (350 grade) cut by a plate processing plant @ $32 and grinding my own rails and drilling the various holes. I've read that this is possible and the only consideration is that it might wear a bit faster than the guage plate. Any other advice?
Red_boards , what did you finally end up doing about the Z slide ?
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  #109  
Old Mon 16 May 2011, 17:19
Red_boards
Just call me: Red #91
 
Melbourne
Australia
Hi Daniel,
I bought the higher grade steel and ground the rails. It looks like it turned out fine. After grinding 3m rails, the short Z was really easy and quick to grind down (no walking involved, for a start!). Drilling and countersinking was not an issue at all.
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  #110  
Old Wed 25 January 2012, 02:09
Zouave
Just call me: Eric #115
 
Sacramento, CA
United States of America
So, I had a curious thought. Why not bolt the grinder skate to a piece of plywood with a hole cut in it, fix a fence to it, and slide the Z plate over the exposed (and 45 degree) wheel, referencing the fence. Final passes would be very light, so minimal force lifting it away. Should give a very nice finish with no material loss on the ends. Am I missing something in thinking through this?
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  #111  
Old Wed 25 January 2012, 05:35
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
The grind might be correct - or not.
The point of the skate design is to be a TOP reference grind and relative to the base metal itself. The key to the skate accuracy is actually in cutting the rails to the proper height BEFORE profile is ground.

By using a fence system (and it has been done successfully) you introduce an additional error in the grind by moving the material. Moving 10+ feet of rail successfully without waves in the profile is difficult to do repeatedly.

Much R&D was done to perfect a way to accurately grind the Vee profile - (ie) A table saw set at 45 deg with grinder wheel, fence system. A grinder set at 45 deg like you suggest with fence....all had challenges with repeatability.

Good luck with your choices. But from experience of 4 table builds.....the skate is quick and accurate with the correct set up. (read about 36 grit sanding disks backed by grinding disk to grind the rail) SUPER FAST.
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  #112  
Old Wed 25 January 2012, 09:11
Zouave
Just call me: Eric #115
 
Sacramento, CA
United States of America
I agree, for the rails, the material lost on the ends is of little consequence because of the overall length. With the Z-slide, however, I think it is worth doing because of the short length, which makes it less prone to the errors encountered with longer rails. Loved the skate on my rails, not so much on the Z-slide. I know a lot of people (myself included) get the Z-plate in the length needed, which means something has to be clamped onto the ends to allow the skate to run over. So it seems like, for the Z-slide, and ONLY the Z-slide, this may be a better way to go.
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  #113  
Old Wed 25 January 2012, 09:15
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
I would also move the z-slide along a fence and leave the grinder static.
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  #114  
Old Wed 25 January 2012, 15:39
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Eric,
For the Z-slide I absolutely agree with a static fence.
On all my builds, I built a run off area from HRS flat stock outside the Tool Steel area.

Thank you for the clarification on use. I seem to be pretty short sighted lately. Must be age or overworked....not sure which one!
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  #115  
Old Sat 30 June 2012, 00:06
Brain
Just call me: Branko
 
Lipik
Croatia
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Hey folks, just a quick question about the rectangular tube mounted onto the z plate..

I can not buy the 50*25*3 mm tube anywhere local, and the next big merchant is only willing to sell me the tube if i buy at least one whole tube (6m)..

My option is 50*30*3 mm...

Is this going to be a problem??

I have studied the drawings and i think it should work...

Any ideas/solitions to this problem?
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  #116  
Old Sat 30 June 2012, 00:26
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
From memory, the extra 5mm will touch the bent stop of the spider plate. You can increase the height of the pedestals under the bearing rollers to move the slide further from the spider.
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  #117  
Old Sat 30 June 2012, 00:38
Zouave
Just call me: Eric #115
 
Sacramento, CA
United States of America
I will check when I get home, but I think Gerald is correct.
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  #118  
Old Sat 30 June 2012, 01:10
Brain
Just call me: Branko
 
Lipik
Croatia
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Thats what i also suspected when i looked up the z slide in the sketchup model whoch is featured somewhere on the forum... Later on i thought the only possible solution should be to increase the distance by 5 mm relative to the z plate... Since i am going to turn the suport bushes myself i think that if i make them 5 mm thicker it should work fine... One more issue will apear and thats the holder os the gas spring.. It wont be centrical to the tubes 25 mm ... My guess is that this also can be fixed by making a new one where the bended "ear" is 5 mm longer.. As far as i can see those are the two main concerns...

Also , why do we need nuts on the spider if we tapped a m6 thread right through the 6 laser marked spots?
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  #119  
Old Sat 30 June 2012, 01:44
danilom
Just call me: Danilo #64
 
Novi Sad
Serbia
I use 50x30, don't remember if I had to change anything but think not. I also have a 10mm thick Z plate so it would introduce more problems if it was too tight to fit.
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  #120  
Old Sat 30 June 2012, 04:39
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Omit the M8 thread on the spider. just drill a 8mm or 8.5mm through hole.

I can't get hold of 3mm thick 25 x 50mm M.S. RHS either. I opt for an aluminium instead. I hope it will hold for my Plasma table.

Last edited by KenC; Sat 30 June 2012 at 04:42..
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