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  #91  
Old Thu 13 May 2010, 23:36
swatkins
Just call me: Steve
 
Houston
United States of America
Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalHead View Post
Great looking control box !!! Nice to have those motors movin
Thank you

Making the motors move was kicking my rear end.... I finally figured out that the charge pump setting was not enabled in Mach3.. I was sure happy to see them go after I turn that on
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  #92  
Old Sun 23 May 2010, 16:12
swatkins
Just call me: Steve
 
Houston
United States of America
A little set back...

I am busy building a set of kitchen cabinets.. While using my current router table to shape the door rails the router decided to start acting up... I think the brushes are going out and that throws a monkey wrench into my plans... This is the router I was planing on using for my MechMate

I have been searching the forum looking for options... The spindle looks to be a superior motor for the machine and if I can make it happen for under 900.00 I think that's the best route...

I have never used a spindle and I am having a hard time finding a list of features that would allow me to make a informed decision... From what I have been able to find there are a few clear advantages ( I think)...
  • The water cooled spindle is not a loud as a router motor.
  • The spindle can be controlled easier than a router.
  • The spindle might have a better accuracy due to better run out tolerances.

The Router also has a few advantages over the spindle.
  • The router is much cheaper and easier to replace if it breaks.
  • The router is needs no other electronic other than a relay...

So I am need of help from people that have experience.. What would you do if you had only 900.00 and planned on using the MechMate to cut plywood for cabinets, light metal for brackets and plates along with other general cutting duties...
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  #93  
Old Sun 23 May 2010, 23:28
Richards
Just call me: Mike
 
South Jordan, UT
United States of America
I started my CNC experience with a Porter Cable router and eventually moved to a Colombo 3hp spindle.

The Porter Cable worked just fine. It was loud, but it cost less than $300 on the Internet. The Colombo with its controller, collets and wrenches cost about $3,500. In addition, I added another $750 for filters and suppressors to cure a non-existent electrical noise problem.

If I had it to do over again, I would still start with a router. I can only imagine how I would have felt if I had crashed my spindle like I crashed my router when I was first learning to "drive" my machine. Accidents happen. Spindles are fragile. Routers are cheap.

It cost less than $30 to replace the bearings in my Porter Cable router. Brushes are also inexpensive. I understand that a factory rebuild of my spindle to replace the bearings will cost more than $700.

Also, with a spindle, you have to properly warm the spindle up EVERY morning and then again if it has sat idle long enough to completely cool down. I'm fairly certain that I have logged almost as many hours in warm-up mode as I have logged in cut mode.

Of all the people who I've personally met who own Shopbots, only one started with a spindle; all the rest of us started with a router.

To be completely fair, I like my spindle. It allows me almost infinite control of the cut speed, but I could have just as easily adjusted the feed speed to fine-tune the cut. I have not had one minute's trouble with the spindle, but I never had any trouble with the Porter Cable in the year that I used it. I changed the bearings on a day when I had nothing to do. The Porter Cable ran cooler with the new bearings, but the cut quality was exactly the same. For that matter, the cut quality was no better with the spindle. My ears appreciate the lower noise level of the spindle, but my pocketbook suffered greatly.

Last edited by Richards; Sun 23 May 2010 at 23:34..
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  #94  
Old Sun 23 May 2010, 23:53
javeria
Just call me: Irfan #33
 
Bangalore
India
in India I would go for the spindle (asian) 265 for spindle + 90 for shipping + 100 duties and other expenses + 300 for a delta VFD + 2USD for the ferrite core to take out the electrical noise+ 100 for cooling setup for water cooling set up.

thats 857 total,

we once changed the NSK bearings that cost us like 50 ...

I would say get a quote for a asian spindle and calculate how much you would spend for the setup,

i started with a router too, but would not recommend you to do the same - my makita was insanely loud!
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  #95  
Old Sun 13 June 2010, 16:35
Regnar
Just call me: Russell #69
 
Mobile, Alabama
United States of America
Steve, Just wondering how things are going? We need a update from you
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  #96  
Old Sun 13 June 2010, 18:06
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
Buy a Milwaukee 5625 over a Porter Cable. Less noise.
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  #97  
Old Mon 14 June 2010, 15:29
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
I second that motion! Buy the Milkwaukee unless you already have the the P/C unit. A LOT less noise....like 30db or more.
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  #98  
Old Mon 08 April 2013, 22:32
swatkins
Just call me: Steve
 
Houston
United States of America
Quote:
Originally Posted by Regnar View Post
Steve, Just wondering how things are going? We need a update from you
HI Guys!

I'm BACKKKKKKK

Life has really gotten in my way for the last couple of years. Even my website work has had to take a backseat as I am overrun with construction projects and just no time or space to finish up my machine.

So..... Two custom homes, three custom kitchens with hand crafted cabinets AND building my own home, I am ALMOST ready to weld up my table!

Just have to finish up all the Knotty Alder raised panel doors for my house and I can move the wood shop out of the way and put the table together!

This may be the longest build in MechMate History
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  #99  
Old Tue 09 April 2013, 11:46
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Steve, Great to see you back in action.
...we will be watching!
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  #100  
Old Tue 09 April 2013, 13:25
andrewuk
Just call me: Andrew
 
leeds
United Kingdom
lol i'm going for that record welcome back.
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  #101  
Old Fri 13 December 2013, 08:35
20HeavyGK
Just call me: John
 
Houston Texas
United States of America
Looks good to me Steve. My rails will likely be used instead in holding up chain hoists!
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  #102  
Old Fri 13 December 2013, 09:14
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Hey John - You building a MechMate? Would love to see some pics !!
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  #103  
Old Fri 13 December 2013, 09:42
20HeavyGK
Just call me: John
 
Houston Texas
United States of America
Not me. I thought about it enough to acquire some 6 X 3 tubing - but that is coming up on ten years ago. If its not old, way too big and probably rusty, I generally am not much interested.

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...lusman-183407/

The thought about router related to this, and I don't mean models of it:

http://www.aeromuseumservices.com/

Last edited by 20HeavyGK; Fri 13 December 2013 at 09:51.. Reason: fix typo
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  #104  
Old Fri 13 December 2013, 13:13
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Ha!!

Well welcome to the forum and enjoy the reading. We try to keep posts focused on MechMate builds and support
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  #105  
Old Fri 03 January 2020, 01:48
swatkins
Just call me: Steve
 
Houston
United States of America
Hi Guys...

It's now January of 2020... I started in January of 2010... By my math that makes 10 years since I started and I think I am officially entitled to the longest build award!

I have been thinking about making the rails for 10 years now and I think I finally have the tool to make them now

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YWer...Y7A58&index=13
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  #106  
Old Fri 03 January 2020, 17:24
lonestaral
Just call me: Al #114
 
Isarn
Thailand
Send a message via Skype™ to lonestaral
Good to see a build.
Keep at it.
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  #107  
Old Wed 29 January 2020, 00:10
swatkins
Just call me: Steve
 
Houston
United States of America
How much space do you give your Mech Mate?

I finally have time and the desire to finish up this build. I'm cleaning out my shop and making a bunch of changes to find a space the MM can fit into.

IF you want to get an idea of my shop I am posting videos of my shop and what I do on this YouTube channel.. Please subscribe to follow along with a new home for the MM

The search for a place in my shop has been a long and difficult one as this machine is large and I still needed to make a living, the MM was always pushed to the back burner

Tonight I was sitting in the shop just looking at the space and I think I have come up with a plan.. It will involve making a doorway in a wall and I need to figure out how large it needs to be.

I am building a MM that will cut 100 by 50 inches. It has the belt drive standard MM setup. I was wondering if this MM would fit through a 59" wide doorway.

I have always planned on making the base table with removable ends so I could move it through doorways but have envied the simplicity and rigidity of a solid, one piece, table. With my new plan I think I can make it happen.

Could someone please measure theirs and give me an idea on what I will need width wise? I can make it wider if necessary but 6 foot wide standard doors would make it very easy.

Thanks
Steve
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  #108  
Old Wed 29 January 2020, 11:01
Panovak
Just call me: Paul
 
St. Paul
United States of America
The table itself will be y+ about 19" I believe. The guage rod for setting x rails is y+ 461 mm (18.15"). Plus add the thickness of the rails so about 19". This of course doesn't include the overhang of motor.

My table is welded up and from outside to outside is 6 feet exactly but my main beams are 6.5 inches wide so overall is wider than yours would be. My is designed to cut 49" material.
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  #109  
Old Wed 29 January 2020, 16:36
swatkins
Just call me: Steve
 
Houston
United States of America
Thanks,, I was thinking that the x motors are going to hang over a fair bit also.. I guess I could dismount them for the move...
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  #110  
Old Sat 01 February 2020, 10:33
bradm
Just call me: Brad #10
 
Somerville(MA)
United States of America
I think Paul is going for the dimensions of the table itself. The gantry hangs over the rails; The rails are the outer width of the table, V-bearing on top of rail + spacer + gantry end + spacer + motor plate + motor is about 0.25" + 0.125" + 0.25" + 0.125" + 0.25" + 5-8" = another 6"-9" per side for a total of Y+ 19" + 12-18" if you have not removed the gantry.
That would be 50 + 19 + 12 = 81" minimum ( or 75" if you removed just the motors ).

Is removing the gantry and tilting the table on its side an option? That would be just 69" high, which should leave plenty of room for dollies underneath.
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  #111  
Old Sun 02 February 2020, 20:39
swatkins
Just call me: Steve
 
Houston
United States of America
It looks like 71 inches on a regular door is too small... I could put it on it's side be that would be a chore turning it onto it's feet with only two people.

Still working on the layout of the machine within the room so I'm still up in the air on making the table in 4 pieces, plus the cross supports...

Heck I'm still thinking about taking off the angles on the c-channel I have..
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  #112  
Old Sun 02 February 2020, 21:36
Panovak
Just call me: Paul
 
St. Paul
United States of America
Why couldn't you get it through the doorway? It seems that only one time would you need to remove the Gantry/motor which can t take that long.
You'll spend more time trying to figure out ways around it!
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  #113  
Old Mon 03 February 2020, 07:49
bradm
Just call me: Brad #10
 
Somerville(MA)
United States of America
I'm with Paul - if you're planning to move it less than once a decade, just get the manpower together to make the move and pull the gantry. In this case you should be able to do that before you wire the gantry for the first time.

Throw a moving party, or, heck, hire a couple pros to help out - they're not that expensive to do a quick turn onto dollies, roll, and turn back.
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  #114  
Old Mon 03 February 2020, 22:09
swatkins
Just call me: Steve
 
Houston
United States of America
I think I will try it out with a 6' door and just install the gantry inside the room..

I have machine skates and everything to move the table it's just hard to control that much mass that is weighted heavily on one side... Hate to hurt anyone... IF I decide to turn it on the side I will build a fixture similar to a car rotisserie and just roll it in the door and roll it over

I just bought this welding table.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zE10jqp0TE&t=7s

I had to turn it over and cut the legs shorter to install adjustable legs... I haven't uploaded that video yet but it was interesting flipping it on it's side with all the weight off centered
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  #115  
Old Sun 09 February 2020, 00:07
swatkins
Just call me: Steve
 
Houston
United States of America
How do you load your table?

I've been cleaning out a space for the MM and have come up with another way of putting the table in the available space.... Side Ways to the doors!

I was planing on putting in a set of double doors in a wall so that I could aim the table at the doors, keep it a foot or two away from the door and load 4 x 8 sheets through the doors and onto the table..

Looking at the somewhat cleared space I could make this work out easier if I moved the table father into the room and turned it 90 degrees. This plan would require that I load long sheets over the top of the beam and onto the spoil board, in effect loading it from the side..

Does anyone load their machine from the side and have you had any problems?

IF I place the table sideways I don't have to put in another set of door and may or may not build it as a one piece table. I have room to dolly the table into the room on it's side but I'm not sure how easy it will be to rotate it to it's feet.
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  #116  
Old Sun 09 February 2020, 00:46
Panovak
Just call me: Paul
 
St. Paul
United States of America
Good question Steve. My thought without ever having done that is it sounds like a PITA. The Gantry would need to be moved out of the way and caution regarding the rails, motors, wiring. Not to mention the added height.
Happened to watch your YouTube video. Have fun with Doug! Don't blow him up!
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  #117  
Old Sun 09 February 2020, 00:51
swatkins
Just call me: Steve
 
Houston
United States of America
Quote:
Originally Posted by Panovak View Post
Good question Steve. My thought without ever having done that is it sounds like a PITA. The Gantry would need to be moved out of the way and caution regarding the rails, motors, wiring. Not to mention the added height.
Happened to watch your YouTube video. Have fun with Doug! Don't blow him up!

That was a fiasco! I think he learned his lesson...
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