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parrulho Mon 09 April 2012 23:53

Hi Axel, you did a good job on CAD software. What program are you using? The renders looks very real.

Axel1966 Sat 14 April 2012 18:11

It's not some CAD softs, just graphic ones.
No precision on parts or dimensions, just to make up my mind with the MM building process.
I'm using Gmax with a Vray renderer. :)
Both freewares.

Metalsmith Sun 15 April 2012 09:06

Originally Posted by WTI View Post
He is asking you if you TIG welded your motorcycle frames. You know; "stacking dimes".
I tack with mig and if I am selling , I have it professionally welded, Tig is too time consuming .....I am playing with silicon-bronze, like the Brit frames are done...or where !

Axel1966 Sun 06 May 2012 01:48

Hi all, new progresses (so far...)
Today the plans of my four belt reduction systems :
3 different parts, 4 identical for motor support, and 2 different suspension plates,
one (x3) for both X and Y axis, 1 for the Z axis.
I'll give the DXF to be lasercuted with the original MM parts.
No weldind needed, just some glue for the bearings,
and 6xM6 Allen Head Cap Screws with 6 steel tube bridges by gearbox.
I'll make only the axis by myself using my drill as a mill. :rolleyes:

These little things takes a lot of time !
At last this is out my "to do" list. :p

Axel1966 Sun 06 May 2012 13:58

Because I'm lazy, I did not calculate reduction ratio by myself,
So I came to and entered the desired reduction in the fields :
And eyes wide shut, I used the calculation produced by the table.
But if you enter 3 to 1 you get a 2:1 reduction :mad:
So beware if you use the calculation table of this website.
Choose the motor pulley (A), then multiply the number of grooves (A) in the charge pulley (B) by the desired reduction.

4 hours spent for nothing.
I should have calculated by myself.
Nice, I've got to start over... :(

twistedfuse Sun 06 May 2012 22:53

Try this program made by brecoflex for working out belt lengths and pulley centres in reductions. Works with all standard types of belt/pulley profiles. Seems to always want the latest and greatest version of java installed in your browser but is a nice piece of software. Their prices aren't too bad either.


Axel1966 Mon 07 May 2012 02:15

Hi Daniel, thanks for your link, the program is much better, and have much more pulley types ! :)

twistedfuse Tue 08 May 2012 15:28

No worries at all, keep up the good work.


Axel1966 Mon 14 May 2012 14:43

So !
I've spent a loooot of time on belt reductions.
To balance corectly the weight around the M10 fixation,
two types of plates are needed (IMO) one kind for X & Y, one for Z.
I've checked all three time (my last try was pittyfull...),
from dimensions of each part (avalaible in the neighborhood), to belt tension...
I've made some 3D views to be sure all works well together, including boltery.

I hope this is ok now. I've made some DXF files.
Parts are meant to be cut in the same time
than original MechMate laser parts.

I keep on recieving the tools needed, step by step.
This week : quality taps and files ! :)

baseball43v3r Mon 14 May 2012 17:50

hey axel, Mike sells plate reduction kits that take the guesswork out of it. But I do like what you have built here, what are the silver parts sticking up to the right where the motor mounts?

JamesJ Mon 14 May 2012 18:44

Belt tensioning device?

Kobus_Joubert Mon 14 May 2012 23:17

French flair... nice curves on the plates.

Axel1966 Tue 15 May 2012 00:46

Hi all, thank you for your comments.

@ John,
Well, I agree Mike's parts fits perfectly.
Through, shipping cost to France plus custom fees may at last double the part's cost.
Unfortunately... :(
Otherhand, it was fun to create my mine ! (and teachfull)

@ Jim,
You get it Jim, it's supposed to help the belt tensioning/positioning by pushing/pulling the motor.
Otherhand, it cross the whole box to avoid twist and add stiffness too.
I researched the simplest way, without the need of some bending/welding tools.
You just need glue, a saw for the tube bridges and a M6 tap.

@ Kobus,
Thank you, cultural distortion :o

When builded, if it works without any problem,
I'll post the DXF files in the "belt reduction" tread, if it's of any interest for someone,
who don't live in Mike's neighborhood.

Pleyell Wed 03 July 2013 08:57

Je viens d'acheter les plans et je t'avous qu'avec mon anglais, je suis paumé complet. Si tu peux m'aider pour déja savoir par quoi commencer je suis prêt a une aide financière pour te remercier. Merci

Originally Posted by Axel1966 View Post
Hi all,
I'm Axel, from France.
I was searching informations for a DIY Huge CNC, for 2,5D milling on various types of raw materials.
Just landed here, and see a lot of interesting informations.
Thanks for all. And please excuse my bad english.

Axel1966 Wed 03 July 2013 09:27

Salut Pascal,

Inutile de poster sur tous les sujets et tous les forums ;)
Une aide t'a été proposée sur un autre forum si je ne m'abuse.

Pleyell Wed 03 July 2013 09:37

tu sais Axel, métabricoleur a l'air un peu complexe pour un gars comme moi qui sais pas faire marcher une montre a quartz. Je peux mm pas t'écrire parce que j'ai pas écris assez (sur Métabricoleur). Avous que ça a l'air un peu con cette histoire! pour un clown professionnel comme moi, c'est le" bout du bout de bois" de raymond devos. Je suis obligé de t'écrire ici. Comme le 9 a Asnières de fernand Raynaud; je cherche un mec qui m'aide et moyennant qu'il me dise comment faire , je donnerai qq émoluements comme disent les avocats. Merci de me répondre ,via les Usa.Pascal

Fox Wed 03 July 2013 10:34

Quote: tubemiter.exe ..... it's at the bottom of page, there are other apps that might be used

with this , a hacksaw and files, you can miter any tube !
I used this a lot in the past ( not MM related - mine is all square tubes), it's a fabulous basic program, just works. I print it out ( check 1:1 printing scale ! ) cut paper at edge tightly wrap around tube, use permanent marker to follow the cutting line, remove paper, take handheld grinder ( files and hacksaw are way too slow ) and with a bit of practice you get 'perfect' MIG joints in a matter of minutes, if you use the handheld grinder with a cutting blade and work your way ( cutting/grinding ) until no black marker is visible anymore. I do this freehand, tube in left cutter in right. Maybe not the safest way (please watch your fingers), but when you have a good feel ( practice a little ) it's dead easy + quick and relative safe.

Axel1966 Wed 03 July 2013 11:25


Essaie de prendre quelques jours pour digérer les plans.
Beaucoup de choses prennent du sens en multipliant les lectures.
Si tu as des questions entre temps, n'hésite pas. ;)

jayrdwein Sun 03 January 2016 11:44

If you want to design a machine,this is not the forum for that. We are here to help you build a MechMate and the reason everyone does basically the same build has also been covered.

Axel1966 Sun 03 January 2016 13:05

@ jayrwein
You're digging out a pretty old topic ! I wanted to build a MM, but the MM needs welding skills I still don't have. I builded a very different machine two years ago. So don't worry, I know what's the MM forum is all about. Through, even if I'm not a MM builder, I helped a lot french people to understand the MM, that I promoted. Appreciate the MM forum is obviously english, and if you're not fluent in technical english you may feel lost.

Otherhand, in every forum, every topic has been covered many times. But, for a new comer, informations are spared everywhere, and hidden inside a huge amount of subjects. You can't find what you need easily, even with the search engine. Newbies should be welcome to ask questions that was many times covered. IMHO.


thuanle Wed 08 June 2016 11:35

Hi Alex,
I like your concept at post #73 (except the storage). Did you build MM with this concept?

Axel1966 Wed 08 June 2016 12:46

Hi thuan,

I never builded any MechMate, because I can't weld properly. The design on post #73 may cause problems along the gantry. A gantry long as that should be stiffer than on MechMate standard recomanded profiles. I guess even the bended plates at the ends of the gantry should be recalculated too.

BUT, I built another kind of large CNC (weldless) with the same principle for a rotary 4th axis. But instead of having it on the long side I decided to put it on the short side. A 1300mm wide area is enough for many purpose. A smaller gantry is better and is cost effective. Remember this is CNC, so you've got a super power : repeatability. You can build any long piece out of shorter ones that will joint perfectly. So I believe that was a wise decision.

thuanle Wed 08 June 2016 13:09

Axel, With your concept in post #73, operator could easily load 48'x96' sheet size-way and easier to clamp. If the MM is put in a residential double garage, we don't need to open the garage door in order to load the sheet on.

Could you share the picture/concept of your built CNC? Thanks.

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