The control box is completed and the painted table moves! - Ft. Worth, Texas
 

I have been lurking around the forum for over 6 months now it time to start building one. I have been acquiring parts and tool slowly. I think I have enough tools and part to start building. Before I start posting PIC just to let everyone know I have never worked with steel or done any welding in my life so done expect high craftsmanship like some the guru in this forum.

Mamba spec will be:
Gecko driver G203V
Oriental Motor PK296A2A-SG7.2
PMDX122 breakout board
Rack DP 20 part# 200011 from stdsteel.com
Pinion 30 teethes part# 200011 from Boston Gear
Cutting area will be 5x8

Welcome Kray!

Welcome Kray....

This was my 1st welding (among other things) experience also...

absolute blast learning and finding new talents...

Welcome Kray,
No worries, welding is not my specialty either, but we will work through it.

Some PICs of progress
 

Here are some PICs of the progress.
I burned the Chicago cheap grinder and had to buy higher amper grinder.
I wanted at least 8A grinder but could not find any that would fit my skate so I end up with the 6A Bosch with a little grinding on the skate to make it fit. I had the older version skate with hole size of 1.72.

Hey, this is all good stuff!

(except for the dead grinder - which is becoming a rite of passage for a typical MM builder)

Hi Kray
Welcome, excellent job so far, my fathers comments on my welding used to be “your posture is that of a professional but … you need to practice more” we all learn.
I am amused to see how clean the steel is on the forum, mine was all rusted

Hi Kray,

Welcome aboard.:)

The MM build is a great education not only in welding but electrical, machining, painting, and computer skills.

Best of all are all the great people that contribute to this forum.:)

Good luck with your build.

Kray posted some YouTube videos yesterday.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rraFsgnuh5s
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NbhrYvy2wFU

Gerald you are quick I was going to post it here but you beat me to it.
I was trying to figure out what the links was but it was getting late.

It took me about 8 minutes to grind one side of the 10ft rail on the first video. It was getting dark outside and I didn't want to disturb the neighborhood so I stopped and continued the next day.

Kray,
Are you using a set of speakers to set your main beams on?

Yes, I listen to the music while building the mechmate.


Just kidding the speaker doesn't work I figure I might find it useful one day and that day came. :D

After grinding those rails, are there any tips you could pass on to the folk that are nervous about doing it?

Good videos and pics!

Thank-you for the compliment.

What work really well for me was using a good grinder and changing out the disk often for faster grinding. Change out the disk once the leading edge of the disk wear out, you will notice the spark will start to spark in the middle of the disk instead of the leading edge. At that moment the disk will glaze and grinding will be slooow. I read in the forum someone mentioned to adjust the front slightly lower than the back to keep the leading edge in contact with rail when that happen but it was more convenience for me just to change out to a new disk. I use two discs for one rail. The first two short rails it took me all day because I was afraid I might push the grinder to hard. I use the back and forward motion but once I got comfortable I just lightly push the grinder forward without the backward motion for about a foot and pause for a couple of second and continue on forward. It seems to grind faster that way. On my last rail in the video my confidence level was really high I just lightly push the grinder forward without stopping and it took me 8 minute to grind down one side of a 10ft of 12ft rail. I stopped in the video because the disk was wearing out and it was getting dark and I didn’t want to disturb the neighborhood. The grinder was really hot when I stopped if I had used one of the cheap Harbor Freight grinder I would of burn it again. If I can do this anybody can too.

Last night I ordered 4 G203V –Vaccum version, not knowing what Vaccum version is but from the information below it sound like if the motor is not moving it switch to standby where there will be no current to the motor avoiding heat. But if their no current to the motor would the motor allow to spin freely like if there is no power to it. If this is the case would that be a problem for the Z motor because the heavy router would fall down to the table. Am I way off?
I hope I didn’t order the wrong version.


• The G203V is available in a G203V-Vacuum version as well. This changes the auto current standby to 0% as opposed to 70%, allowing it to operate in a vacuum environment with minimal heating problems.

Thanks for those grinding tips.

Sorry Kray, but that vacuum Gecko will not work for a CNC router. If you are cutting out cabinet doors for example, one axis is moving while the other two have to hold their position firmly to resist the cutter forces. Try to change your order before they ship.

drilled cross beam
 

I didn't get much done today only drilled the cross beams for the board support. I still need to to enlarge the holes to 1/2 on both end of each beams for bolt on to the main beams.

I'm in luck today I got an email from Gecko this morning asking me for my credit card expiration date seem I forgot to included when I ordered last night. :):):)

Putting table together
 

I finally had some time working on the table, while welding the side rail cross tube I forgot to leave enough room for the cross beam:eek::eek:, Oh well I cut it out and reweld it tomorrow. I also installed some rubber casters for ease of moving around the garage. I can’t wait to get the table done so I can start working on the electronic parts.

Dang, that foul between the cross-support channel and the diagonal brace also caught me originally. Hence this note on drawing 1010310W:

If you cut angles on the ends of the cross rails, as indicated on the drawings, it may well avoid hitting that tube, try that first before cutting the welds loose.

Your both right if I cut the cross beam at an angle there is plenty of room left without hitting the tube. I feel stupid now its a simpy fix why didn't I think of that.

THANKS

I see you also have a BIG gap between the sides. When Gerald visited me he noticed it also. I worked on the drawings and wanted a table that can do a standard small sheet....2.44 x 1.22.....I took the 1.22 and rounded it to 1.5 and then plugged this into the Y+ calculation....the result...lot's and lot's of space on the sides.

Cutting the end angle worked out great still had 1/4 inch gap left.

Kobus,
I add and extra foot just in case I ever decide to add and indexer or tool changer later in the future but didn't realize the gap will be that big though.

Kray,
If you want the extra space for an indexer, wouldnt you want all the extra space on one side? Your spoilboard looks like it is centered on the table?
Table is looking really good though.

Yes, but I'm not planning the indexer anytime soon it will be awhile, when that time come I will replace the spoilerboard and move it to one side.

Table almost complete
 

Here are some progress on my table. I got the table leveled and fixed my twisted gantry following the direction on this thread.
I twisted a little two much but will be it later.

Pics of some goodies
 

I got some goodies arrived..
-Cable chain
-203V gecko driver (standard)
-122 PMDX
-495VA, 30VAC toroidal by ULVECO for $35 at electronic surplus
-24”x25”x9.5” Hoffman Enclosure Type 4.12.CSA E used on EBAY for $65
I have not pick up the box yet. I’m still waiting for some kind of sale for the Oriental Motor.

Good seeing the gantry and car on top!