Cuttings signs and insects #36 - Antwerpen, Belgium
 

At the beginning of this year, I decided to build a CNC hobbymachine .
After a few weeks surfing on the Internet I came to this amazing MechMate site of Gerald D
I could not believe my eyes. A site with real plans and a great support . This is really fantastic. After several months of reading, I have also decided to build a MM for MDF board of 122 x 244 cm

I have no CNC experience and the construction of this MM will be a new challenge for me.
When the MM is ready I’m planning to build some kitchencabinets as hobby.

So, last month I have ordered : 14 x GW3 (guide wheels) and 6 x B3X (eccentric bushing) at Rick Hoback of the firm Superior Bearing Company.

Last week my "Mamba set" arrived from Denmark, made by Kim Mortensen (great job indeed) with a corresponding gaugeplate.

My iron is ordered at work: 18 m UPN 80 , 6 m UPN 180 and 6 m tube 100x50x3 mm
(Hopefully it will be delivered this month)

Most of the work such as sawing, grinding, drilling, I plan to do at work ( no noise and dust at home ) . After the working hours of course, so this will take a while I think.
My goal is to finish the mechanical part : the table , gantry, z-slide at the end of this year.

Meanwhile I have all my X and Y - rail cut with a 230 mm cuttingdisk at 28,5 mm.
My intention is cutting the rail at 28,5 mm and then grinding the rail using the railskate to 28 mm .For this I made a support for a grinder of 2300 W with a diskdiameter of 230 mm .
It went reasonably well. I needed 1 cuttingdisk for 6 meter.
So a total of 2 pieces . It lasted about 20 minutes to cut 3,5 m rail .

Unfortunately, the cuttingdisk jammed at a certain moment while I was cutting the first X-rail
( The moment you're almost through the 6 mm , is the most dangerous for jamming the disk , ... I learned )
Therefore the railheight of one X-rail is 27,4 mm at a certain place for approximately 40 cm instead of the needed 28 mm . Therefore I will reduce both X-rails to a railheight of 27 mm.

Will this be a problem for the future, or should I make “ one” new X-rail with the railheight of 28 mm ? (Hopefully it is admitted to reduce the height , because all the L-iron 60x60x6 is out of stock)

Bart if you have anymore rails to cut, do this it works. When your just before cutting through start climb cutting, moving the grinder only in the direction it wants to go, hence the term "climb cutting".
It saves wear and tear on the cutting wheels.

Bart, the 27mm is absolutely no problem.

Good to see the progress!

Thank you for your advice, but if the 27 mm railheight is also right it saves me a lot of work Today, my 18 m UPN 80 arrived at work.
So , I know what I am going to do this weekend .
Making my cross bearer and finishing the X – Y rail ( trying to ?? )

My 8 cross bearer are made. I used an L-iron as a jig . All the holes are 6,5 mm except those of the main beam's these are 13 mm. In these holes of 6.5 mm I will tap M8 thread and uses countersink bolts for the support board .


I did some testing for grinding the 2 x 45 ° angles for the X – Y rail .

Bart,

Sounds like you are making good progress. I wish you the best.

Bart,

Nice to see progress. :)

How did your testing for the angles go? Pictures would be great. ;)

Hey, it's good to get support in this project because there always will be large or small problems , which can be solved .

He Greg , about " my testing " :

I welded a flat bar of 30x8 mm (or the waste of the 60x60 L-iron ) to an L-iron and fix it on my workbench (total length ca. 60 cm). In this way, I can practice with the railskate without making mistakes on my original rails.

In my first attempt the angle was greater than 90 degrees.
In my second attempt the angle is 90 °, but my the flanks of the corner are not equal (picture will follow).
Here I still do something wrong , so I have to do some reading , why ?

I also made another setup for the grinder .
Inspired by the example of Hennie.
The aim is also to do the gaugeplate with it .

Some pics of my tests:

Initially I tried the setup with the railskate (tipping method).
Later, I tried this setup. My results remains the same, no equal flanks.
This photo is my worst result.
Is this acceptable ???
Tonight I will try again to find out what is going wrong and to get a good result.

Uneven sized flanks are acceptable if they are consistent along the length of the rail.

Hey,

I thought that technically , it could not hurt.
But I do not understand how this could happen, because I always
make the same movements in the same direction.
And my referencetable is of 30 mm plywood.

Hey, I'm still alive.

Here are some pic’s of my "slow" progress.
I did my Y-rail's and welded my gantry .
This week I wanted to weld my table but I could not find the right welding machine , so .. it will be for the next time .
For my router table I used 7 cross bearers instead of 8 and a 30 mm MDF support board
Other things that I collected are:
4 large wheels (total height = 16 cm), 1 PC pentium 4, 1 electrical cabinet and support
for the legs.

Nice going Bart....in the land with the biggest and best variety of beers...according to me:)

Yes , there are more then 400 different kinds of beer in our country.
My favorite is "Den Duvel" made in a local brewery.
"Schol, Santé ..." on the build of the MechMate.

www.duvelusa.com/heritage.php?cat=belgian

Wish I was there to share a "pilsje" with you. During my 5 years in Holland we visited the Belgium Ardennes often...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ardennes and then our drinking beer was JUPILER, but to wash our mouth out, we had a nice cold Duvel or a Westmalle Triple

Groetjes, Kobus

That would be nice .
This evening I ‘m leaving on weekend to the "Ardennen".
I think this time it will be " Rochefort 8° - 10° " .

How about the Trappiste Ales? I love Duvel but I love those too!!!

Mitchells & Amstel for me and if available a Corona.

There is a Dutch saying " Drink met mate(n)! ".
This means " Don’t drink too much" but sometimes , this is also known
as " Drink with your friends ! ".

A Happy New Year to everyone .

Here is what I've done lately.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=_kAoBhdJbVc

Some things delayed me , but it goes in the right direction

When I was grinding the 2x 45 angels of the X-rail my new Bosch grinder broke down .
I finally got a new one after 2 weeks .

I made a mistake with the distance between the X-rail .
Gauge Rod = Length Y (1220) + 461 = 1681 mm
This is the distance that I used to dril the X-rails in the Main Beam .
When I put the Gantry on these X-rails I noticed a difference of 6 mm .
So , I have enlarged the holes of the X-rail from 12 to 13 mm.
Now they fit correctly but the bolts for the rails are at the end .
In the future I will make slip holes in one X-rail for an optimal alignment and use .

Good video Bart!! Thanks

We see the quality of the design and maker.

MechMate is painted and back assembled.

I know bad points for me.
The RAL is 5021 instead of 5010.
Originally , I bought these paint for my outside metal stair , several years ago .
But the color was not right for my wife ...

I painted everything with a paint role.
It took me about 2 weeks.
Each day approximately 2 hours painting. I have 2 layers established.
Only the Y-car, I tried spraying with a cheap spray gun from a local store.
This was a big mistake . The quality was bad and I still have to clean my garage.:(

Further I had a long wait for the “hold down shaft” and the “bearing support base”.
But now I have an extra set , maybe for later.
I only need to weld it on the spider plate .

Also I decided to buy 4 x PK 296AE-SG7.2 .
So, I have already bought the 4 x pinions : module 1 – Z = 36

Way to go. As always, use what you have. That blue looks close enough for me :) noticing....I wish my garage was that clean

Nice going ...the garage will quickly change once he starts cutting ..:D

I like that blue! Okay, everyone else must repaint now! :D

The best part of that paint is that it got used and didn't end up going hard in the tin. I wonder what percentage of the world's paint production, particularly solvent-based paints, gets dumped. . . . .

I ‘m glad you all like that color.
I ‘m also very pleased with my paintingjob.
Almost sprayed !
My children love it too.
Proudly they tell everyone that “they have chosen the color of Dad's machine”.:D:D

Today I did some homework on the powersupply:
Can someone please confirm my conclusion before I order.
A quick summary :

Used motors will be : PK296AE-SG7.2

Wire them half – coil .

MAX Voltage / Motor = 32 X SQRT(Inductance), so 32 X SQRT(1.5mH) = 39VDC.

TRANSFO :

230VAC/ 2x25 VAC will give 35 VDC after rectification .
The secondary windings will be put in parallel for max current .

This is the transfo I’m going to order :
http://be02.rs-online.com/web/search...duct&R=2238257

ELCO :

Formula : ( 80000*current motor) / voltage motor.

(80000 * 3) / 35 = 6857 μF * 4 steppers = 27428 μF

Selected Elco : 1 x 22000µF - 63 V

This is the elco I’m going to order :
http://be02.rs-online.com/web/search...duct&R=5436915

RECTIFIER: -> I have already

Secure with 4 x fast fuse of 3A

Fuseholder to order :
http://be02.rs-online.com/web/search...duct&R=3110009

Fuse 3 A to order :
http://be02.rs-online.com/web/search...duct&R=5421452

No Bleeder Resistor !

Also check my powersupply schema .

Any suggestions ?


Soon I can start with the kitchen project.
Thanks

What drives are you using?
Those calculations perfect for G201 and G202 drives. For G203, you do not need fuses, they have fuses inside. Remember to order the resistors for the drives.

The drives will be 4 x Gecko G203 V.
The resistor must be (36k – 0,6W) for the 3 A protection.
(Normally it is 0,25W, but I dont find it on the ordersite .So I think 0,6W will certainly do)

The resistor to order :
http://be02.rs-online.com/web/search...duct&R=0148865

That resistor will be 100%

I think the fuse in the Gecko 203 is:\
http://be02.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=541330 0, but I am not sure.