Router Make and Model
 

What does everyone here that uses a router for their Mechmate, use and what do they like or dislike about it? I am in the process of deciding which router would best suit me and I know people here have used the porter cable, Milwaukee and the Hitachi router motors. Any feedback would be great. I am not concerned with price , but ruggedness and ease of maintenance are the top factors.

Heath,

I purchased a Milwaukee 5625. As you know I have not started to cut. After listening to Sean's Porter Cable, I know this router is much quieter than his.

One thing I did is to remove the adjustable screw and it was very easy to do. The brushes will also be easy to replace when needed.

Hope that helps.

I use the standard Milwaukee that everyone else is using. I can't remember the model number now. It seems to be powerful enough. It is a little difficult to change the bits in my opinion. Of course, I haven't used the Porter Cable router. It might be the same way. Also, Milwaukee only offers 1/4" and 1/2" collets. If PC offers a 3/8" collet, that might give you more choices in bits. Because of the depth screw, you have to take it almost completely apart to remove that big screw before it will fit in your router bracket. Make sure you take pictures of the wires inside it before you remove them from their spade connections because there are several spare unused spade connectors available which can make reassembly tricky if you weren't paying attention or if you didn't immediately reassemble it. Finally, the switch just fell apart one day without being abused.

Heath,

I'm using the Milwaukee 5625 also. I like the variable speed (10K to 20K rpm's). Low noise (I do wear hearing protection above 15K rpm's)

I've taken the router apart and reassembled in no time (thanks Paco).

The only "thing" I don't like, is you can only use 1/4" and 1/2" collets. Not that big of a deal, but still a minor issue.

I'm using a porter cable, largely because I had one lying around. It's LOUD. However, I do have 1/2", 3/8", 1/4", and 1/8" collets for it (the 1/8" is aftermarket, not PC), and that's nice, especially the 3/8".

I wonder if a PC collet would work with a Milwaukee router?

I found these sleeve adapters that will allow you to use 1/8 with a 1/4 collet. They also sell a 3/16 for 1/4 collet

http://www.cadcamcadcam.com/sleeve-adaptor14to18.aspx

Nils
I think those adapters should work with any router, as long as the sizes match what you have. Unless Gerald has an opinion on this.

Thanks to all for the critique on your routers. I want to buy a good one the first time. (and a quiet one.) :)

Just doing routine plywood routing on less than a dozen sheets, I burned though my Porter Cable router bearings pretty quickly. Those smaller routers are really designed for rounding-over, engraving, and trimming.

After you get the CNC and dust collection in place, upgrading the router to a spindle should be expected.

Robert, what model porter cable were you using? There are many different models and HP. Just curious. :)

The 1-3/4 HP router (typical American model found anywhere) was the first to go. I also planned on trying my 3-1/4 HP Porter Cable but after a bit of internet research and reading the experiences of others, I found that it would have the same fate.

I currently have an ELTE TMPE3 12/2 (www.elteslr.com) 18,000 rpm model and VFD. I paid about $850 and $300 for the two items.

That router is rated 2.0 kW / 2.7 HP output and the amp draw is 9.0 at 220 three phase (that would be 3430 W input). Regardless, it's strong enough to turn a 1/2" router bit through 3/4" plywood at 120 ipm. Speaking of HP, I hear a lot of chat about needing 5 HP or 7 HP or more... you only need as much HP as it takes to break bits. Unless you plan on using 3/4" bits or cutting through 3 sheets of 3/4" plywood, 3 HP seems to work just fine. The biggest cut I make is with a 1/2" diameter bit, 1-1/4" flute length allowing me to do two 1/2" sheets at a time.

The other nice thing about that size is that's about the biggest VFD you can get with single phase input. The VFD pulls from a single phase, 60 Hz, 20 amp, 240 volt circuit (American standard) and provides three phase, 10-300 Hz, 9 amp, 240 volts to the spindle.

One more thing...

I love how HP ratings are always a lie (drills, compressors, routers, table saws, etc). Take that 3-1/4 HP router I have. It plugs right into a 15 amp 120 volt circuit. If it used all 15 amps, that would be 1800 watts input. If the electric motor was 100% efficient, that would be 2.4 HP output. But since it's more like 70-85% efficient (if I'm lucky) that would be less than 2 HP output AND it doesn't even use all 15 amps! How the heck do that get away with a "3-1/4 HP" rating?!

Whew... I'll go back to work now.

That 3-1/4 HP Rating is moments before it smokes with serious load on the shaft, watt ratings are usually more accurate - thats whats known as "marketing" :rolleyes:

Hello All,
I have used a few in my machine. I have a Hitachi 3.25, works great but a pain to clamp in. A Porter Cable 3.25, my favorite so far both gave feed rates of about 45" a min and had the same noise level. Both were built well and handled all my mistakes without complaining to badly. A few 1hp models as well, sears, rona etc. Not a main machine choice.
If cash isn't a problem Heath run with a spindle. Less noise and way more torque and feed rates in the 300's, and we all know feed rate = a better profit margin. :)

Thanks Tim,
I will probably go with the Porter Cable router to start and upgrade to a spindle once the machine is working and making some money. Its good to hear different peoples experiences with different brands. :)

I have a Milwaukee 5625 and I run it currently with out any ear protection because it is quiet. Setting # 3.

Reports of hot bearings are not a factor in selecting the brand of router. The router manufacturers all buy their bearings from external bearing companies and the quality of the bearings can vary between suppliers. When your router needs its second set of bearings, that is when you can fit quality bearings, with ZZ shields and C3 clearance.

So just what is involved in removing the adjusting screw on the Milwaukee 5625?
I just bought one and will need to that soon.

Dave,

It is not difficult to do. You just have to be careful to watch for the bearing at the top.

Go to the Milwaukee website and download the parts drawing and you shouldn't have any problems.

If you need some more directions, let me know and I will find my drawing and go into more details.

Nils

You were right on. It took about 15 minutes ( would have been less but I had help ). The hardest part was the brushes.

Thanks

Dave

Happy to help. I think it took me longer than that. Plus the top of the switch came off and I reinstalled it incorrectly so I didn't have all the speeds. So I had to do the job twice. I thought I was going to have to replace the switch.

Don't forget Paco's great site. Pictures and everything for disassembling the Milwaukee router. :)

http://pacosarea.blogspot.com/2007/0...uter-5625.html